billcapp

All Baddog & all Z ers, I've followed this thread and I don't see consistent results given. Some points I'd like to make. 1. Has the temperature guage been checked for accuracy. I stuck a thermometer in my radiator to compare to the guage. I'm supposing that the middle mark is 160 Deg. If you use a 160 Deg. thermostat then it stands to reason that the operating temp is usually around 170-180 Deg. if everything else is normal ie. outside temp ~80 Deg. This means the guage should be reading just above the middle mark...am I wrong? 2. I do beleive that the AF mixture plays a role in cooling and release of heat. The recommended mix of 50/50 provides for the best protection of overheating (running too cool doesn't appear to ever be a problem) and too much AF will not provide enough heat transfer. That given...how much coolant did you drain off and replace with water? Is your timing and idle now correct (7.5 Deg BTDC @ 750 - 800 RPM)? Did you also check your dwell...if so what is it? Some other questions I still have..... Just how much better will a fan shroud do ( in degrees of temp drop)? Has any one looked into or experimented with oil viscosity differences as to oil pressure readings? Usually at 94,000 miles I would have an inclination to use straight 30 W, but with my Z having 180,000 miles on it ( still all original engine with not even a valve job yet) I use 40 W. My pressure always reads normal (almost to the bottom of the guage at idle (800RPM) and in the middle when cruising). I assume this is normal. Being in a hot climate 40 W should be used anyway. How much better is a 4 vs. a 3 row radiator (in degrees of temp drop)? Will a electric fan provide better cooling at idle than the stock (nylon with properly operating clutch) fan? Will it make a difference with or without the shroud added? (On a '71 240Z) Living in Florida, heat is always a big issue:( I used to have the dealer add-on AC (York compressor) and the engine always ran too hot. I had to turn off the AC every time I came to a red light; but this was before I replaced the radiator with a 3 core and replaced the stock metal fan with the later year nylon one. I plan to solve this cooling problem so I can add a 280Z AC system. I'd like to still be able to drive during the summer months here (March to November) and you guys up north complain about driving in the winterLOL ! Well enough of this yak....if anyone has the answers to all the above, please be sure to address all issues raised into a complete package of the best solution for cooling. I sure would like to know. By the way, some other news to spread around. I used the newest coolant out - supposedly GM is now using a 5 year coolant (red in color - stupid idea) available from Prestone. My brother-in- law mechanic working at a GM shop said a bullitin came out discontinuing the use of this coolant because it causes premature wear of the seals (I never asked what seals). The other news ( I posted this elsewhere) was I was told by a parts house that "water wetter" leave a buildup of residue in the radiator and shouldn't be used.. anyone hear anything about this? Well I look forward to a lot of noise from you fellow Z ers.

Oh yeah, Redline "water wetter" added to the coolant will drop your operating temp around 10 to 12 degrees, i'm told. HTH, Jeremiah

I have almost identical wheels on my 71 (Western wheel 14X6.5) with the BF Goodrich TAs 215 60 14. They ride very well, look good and are quiet (imporant). The overall size (OD) is smaller than stock so the speedo will read higher than actual but you can get used to that. My photo is listed in members rides under billcapp.

May depend on whats under the hood...you say it's not stock.... If you have added more power using items then your alternator may not supplying enough juice at idle...also your idle may be too low. sorry can't tell you more without more background ...you can email me if you like..I'm in the members list.

I was able to fix my problem with turn signals working intermittantly! I had put a new dash cover (don't you true restorers groan) over the original.. What had happened was the new dash cover was ever so slightly holding the emergency flasher switch lever off of the "OFF' position. This deactivated the signal switch. After removing the flasher switch from the dash mounting, the problem was solved...now the only problem is getting the flasher switch mounted back into the dash without the interference of the dash cover...seems the fit of the cover is not very good and trimming in the right places to make it fit flush with the original dash will be a tricky situation (appears slightly warped).

Could you tell me where you got the information on the booster pushrod being adjusted to 3,5 - 4,0 mm? My manual says to set it to about 1.5mm for 70-71 Z. In my original Nisson 1975 manual it says 3.5 - 3,94mm. Wish I had the shop manual for my 71. The Haynes book kind of sucks, but its all I have.

A year later and I still have a brake problem..I visited a local Z mechanic and he said I have the wrong master cylinder installed. Because my Z was built in July of '71, he thinks it uses the '72 model of master cylinder. He claims that some of the later '71s actually are '72s. I find that hard to believe. Anyway..I bought another master from him (for a '72) and when I looked it over I noticed the end that the push rod from the booster (Master-Vac) is a very deep recessed "V", whereas the one I have installed is a shallow cup. This obviously would be affected by how far the pushrod will seat into the end of the master. My "new" booster would have to have the rod readjusted from ~.15" to ~ .39" from the front of the mounting flange. Something is wrong here! Not only that, the way I read the manual, the front and back braking is independent of each other and the larger reservoir goes on the front brake section, but it is marked towards the back of the master on this new one. Anyone out there really knowledgeable about this?Thanks in advance.

Mike ...you don't state the year but the early ones have all the cables from the heater controls running to the various flaps and heater controls attached at the opposite end under the dash (at the core area) under the dash. You must disconnect these first to pull out the panel. I think here is also one screw on the bottom portion that attaches just behind the cigarette lighter. It's been awhile since I pulled mine. You will also have to detach the electrical wiring from the light at the top of the panel. Good luck.

A worn distributor shaft will cause this problem. Also make sure your vacuum lines are not leaking.

I too had this problem and found the ground to the switch was bad. Ran a new wire and it works now. Did you check for voltage at the fuse with a voltmeter..you said you applied 12v to the fuse. Also the switch it self may be corroded for the headlight position. If you feel comfortable taking the stalk apart, do that and use an eraser to clean the contacts or use contact cleaner (you would still have to take the switch apart to do this). You could also turn the switch on/off many times in succession quickly...that would have a tendency to clean the contact somewhat...if the lights work at any time then that is your problem. Good luck.

I had already done this also...but no luck. I'm guessing the setting of the rod on the booster may be incorrect. Anyone have knowledge of this part? [This message has been edited by billcapp (edited 07-02-2000).]

I have been having a brake problem since I replaced the booster and the master cylinder. When the brake pedal is depressed the brakes appear to start workink correctly then as the car slows the brakes no longer hold and the car continues moving with the same amount of pedal pressure the entire time. I have set the shaft length on the booster as required and checked the pedal freeplay and the rear adjustment. Once I had to pull the emergency brake to stop because the normal pedal pressure didn't work properly...it hits a hard spot as normal even though the freeplay seems excessive but further pressure on the pedal does nothing.

I too have this problem. In the beginning the turn signals would work sometimes and then not. Now they won't work at all. I suspect a bad ground because my brakelights had the same problem of not working...a friend came over and attached a new ground wire and fixed the problem. I can't do the same for the turn signals because I don't have a good readable schematic to find out which color is the ground to the signal circuit. Does anyone out there know?