billcapp

I have almost identical wheels on my 71 (Western wheel 14X6.5) with the BF Goodrich TAs 215 60 14. They ride very well, look good and are quiet (imporant). The overall size (OD) is smaller than stock so the speedo will read higher than actual but you can get used to that. My photo is listed in members rides under billcapp.

May depend on whats under the hood...you say it's not stock.... If you have added more power using items then your alternator may not supplying enough juice at idle...also your idle may be too low. sorry can't tell you more without more background ...you can email me if you like..I'm in the members list.

I was able to fix my problem with turn signals working intermittantly! I had put a new dash cover (don't you true restorers groan) over the original.. What had happened was the new dash cover was ever so slightly holding the emergency flasher switch lever off of the "OFF' position. This deactivated the signal switch. After removing the flasher switch from the dash mounting, the problem was solved...now the only problem is getting the flasher switch mounted back into the dash without the interference of the dash cover...seems the fit of the cover is not very good and trimming in the right places to make it fit flush with the original dash will be a tricky situation (appears slightly warped).

Could you tell me where you got the information on the booster pushrod being adjusted to 3,5 - 4,0 mm? My manual says to set it to about 1.5mm for 70-71 Z. In my original Nisson 1975 manual it says 3.5 - 3,94mm. Wish I had the shop manual for my 71. The Haynes book kind of sucks, but its all I have.

A year later and I still have a brake problem..I visited a local Z mechanic and he said I have the wrong master cylinder installed. Because my Z was built in July of '71, he thinks it uses the '72 model of master cylinder. He claims that some of the later '71s actually are '72s. I find that hard to believe. Anyway..I bought another master from him (for a '72) and when I looked it over I noticed the end that the push rod from the booster (Master-Vac) is a very deep recessed "V", whereas the one I have installed is a shallow cup. This obviously would be affected by how far the pushrod will seat into the end of the master. My "new" booster would have to have the rod readjusted from ~.15" to ~ .39" from the front of the mounting flange. Something is wrong here! Not only that, the way I read the manual, the front and back braking is independent of each other and the larger reservoir goes on the front brake section, but it is marked towards the back of the master on this new one. Anyone out there really knowledgeable about this?Thanks in advance.

Mike ...you don't state the year but the early ones have all the cables from the heater controls running to the various flaps and heater controls attached at the opposite end under the dash (at the core area) under the dash. You must disconnect these first to pull out the panel. I think here is also one screw on the bottom portion that attaches just behind the cigarette lighter. It's been awhile since I pulled mine. You will also have to detach the electrical wiring from the light at the top of the panel. Good luck.

A worn distributor shaft will cause this problem. Also make sure your vacuum lines are not leaking.

I too had this problem and found the ground to the switch was bad. Ran a new wire and it works now. Did you check for voltage at the fuse with a voltmeter..you said you applied 12v to the fuse. Also the switch it self may be corroded for the headlight position. If you feel comfortable taking the stalk apart, do that and use an eraser to clean the contacts or use contact cleaner (you would still have to take the switch apart to do this). You could also turn the switch on/off many times in succession quickly...that would have a tendency to clean the contact somewhat...if the lights work at any time then that is your problem. Good luck.

I had already done this also...but no luck. I'm guessing the setting of the rod on the booster may be incorrect. Anyone have knowledge of this part? [This message has been edited by billcapp (edited 07-02-2000).]

I have been having a brake problem since I replaced the booster and the master cylinder. When the brake pedal is depressed the brakes appear to start workink correctly then as the car slows the brakes no longer hold and the car continues moving with the same amount of pedal pressure the entire time. I have set the shaft length on the booster as required and checked the pedal freeplay and the rear adjustment. Once I had to pull the emergency brake to stop because the normal pedal pressure didn't work properly...it hits a hard spot as normal even though the freeplay seems excessive but further pressure on the pedal does nothing.

I too have this problem. In the beginning the turn signals would work sometimes and then not. Now they won't work at all. I suspect a bad ground because my brakelights had the same problem of not working...a friend came over and attached a new ground wire and fixed the problem. I can't do the same for the turn signals because I don't have a good readable schematic to find out which color is the ground to the signal circuit. Does anyone out there know?