billcapp

Hey there Roger, Welcome...anything you would need to know can usually be found here. If you don't find it by "search" then just ask. Just remember most of this site is devoted to the earlier z's, but there are members that also have the zx. Bill

Mine is 8/71 HLS30-40847 originally from San Diego

I'm not surprised that I haven't spent much on mine to date. I've done most of the work myself, which isn't much, including the paint job. I'll probably spend $500 on a turbo'd engine to use til I rebuild the original. Still not much over the past 25 years I've owned it. Just "skeered" the pants off my brother with a 100 MPH juant down the road this afternoon...still goes like hell. Guess that's why I still have it.

I would try a local junk yard for foreign cars. They don't go bad and can be polished easily.

There is a thread in this forum about radiators. From what I remember it is not the number of cores rather the size of cores. There were photos also included in the thread. I thought as you that 3 is better. Well...not! I live in a hot climate also and had A/C with a cooling problem and replaced my original 71 radiator with a 3 row core and still could not run the A/C when at a red light (got too hot). I haven't corrected the problem yet so when you make the purchase let us know the results. Sorry I can't provide more info...but look for the thread.

:beard: Taking the alternator out is a piece of cake. After mine was rebuilt ($35.00) I just used polishing rouge and a drill with a buffing wheel being careful not to aim it to the inside. It came out like chrome. Don't even sand it with any grit unless it's totally disassembled and cleaned thoroughly. It really doesn't need sand paper anyway.

Don't forget the other ends of the battery cables being cleaned in the same manner. The smaller ground from the battery to the firewall should be removed cleaned and reattached. Grounding seems to be an issue in many electrical problems. Also there is the possibility the ignition switch is worn out and not setting in the correct position when used. If the key will turn the lock very effortlessly with no good feeling of a detent that is an indication.

Has anyone posted a scanned photo of this ad?

The "Chrome" paint isn't anything like chrome..it's just a brighter silver. I wouldn't use it if you want anything close to original. JMO

not all sharks have to move to breathe..i.e. nurse sharks

I likewise use premium (93 octane) in mine. As mine is bone stock and original with quite a few miles on it, I add a lead substitute to the tank at every fill. The original valve seats are not hardened and will not last as long as the new hardened seats usually installed on a rebuild while using unleaded fuel. The original engines required leaded fuel..I have used lead substitute for the past 20 years and have 167,000 miles on the original engine with lots of power....OK ...I'm ready for the comments. I have my asbestos pants on!

All of the above. I've had a Paul Neuman designed dam on now for the past 20 years. It is fiberglass and I've had to repair it twice due to low curbs while parking. The urethane will flex somewhere above 50 MPH and deform quite a bit at higher speeds. The fiberglass will also flex and vibrate at higher speeds (100+). I have strengthened mine by adding to the bottom lip with a metal rod encased in more glass and have added a bracket in the center for another mounting point. The stock mounting on the dam is only around the turn signals and at the leading edge of the fender well. With the mods I've made, I don't have the flex or vibration. It appears very solid. I hope to stay away from the curbs but I certainly love my dam...it really starts applying down force noticibly around 90. Now all I need is something for the back.

Just what piece are you refering to? Could you post a photo? :surprised you can see my console on the 3rd page of my gallery....

240znz just made the point about the paint code sticker on the radiator frame; to be fully restored that sticker should remain as part of the car which of course indicates the color. I suppose one could have a counterfiet new one made for their new color. I hear the comments about a new paint job not including the engine compartment, door jambs, etc. not being done on a repaint. I chose not to repaint only the engine compartment with the reasoning that some day the car would go back to the original color and it may be good to keep the original for a color match. Afterall, under the hood isn't exposed to the sun. The other reason of course was the cost at the time to strip to repaint the engine compartment. I actually believe in doing it right and it was a tough decision. I still have the original paint code sticker on the radiator support. Check my gallery.... And I don't think that the white engine compartment looks all that bad. I don't enter shows, so what does it matter?

Cyuong, What is the purpose of all the added hardware? :eek: Certainly doesn't look practical. Before everyone starts in on how ugly this stuff looks, maybe this question should be answered. Most will think it sucks......but does it work for racing. Remember not all cars need to fit the "mold". Thanks for the link :rambo:

After looking at the photos...I had this feeling the block has been repainted. If it has been sitting after 1900 miles in storage , why would it have been repainted?

My only thought could be because it is the tail....

YEa, it's time to crank up my "little one" too...been about 4 weeks. :nervous:

Sean240z said one of the most important things...rust is the z's biggest enemy. If you do decide to buy, take someone that knows where to look for rust. It can cleverly be concealed.