billcapp

YES Mike I've been on my new job long enough to think it will last, so I"m ready to BUY stuff! Just let us know when it's ready. By the way, do you still have the CD? Bill

Just another note to everyone about these signal lights. I installed a dash cover (sorry to u perfectionists) and after a few months my signals didn't work. After a thorough 12 hours, I found that the dash cover had ever so slightly bumped up my hazard switch (not enough to make the hazard lights work) but enough to stop the signals from working. The hazard switch is in line with the signals and if it is not making contact in the off position, the signals won't work. Just something to keep in mind...make sure the hazard switch is completely OFF!:stupid:

I like the contrasting back end! Nice job

I personally don't care for the front end...looks like it's nose is stuck up in the air. The rest of the body as I remember wasn't so bad from the side view. Even the 510 didn't have classic lines...sharp edges, but I liked it.:tapemouth

Hey Guys I've been buying quite a bit of tools since '02 (1902) and I have quite a collection. Some of everything. Most all American local brands fare well---Husky Craftsman Snap-on etc. For the new mechanic....stay away from the cheap far eastern stuff. The '02 thing is just an expression that is now meaningless now that we are in the next century.

One last thing I forgot...battery should be reading ~ 14 volts with no load if it's charged good.

Have you checked your ballast resistor by chance? Why would you troubleshoot your ignition if you have spark? Are you sure your spark is strong (blue) and the timing is set? Just don't know what else to tell you at the moment.....good luck! By the way I'd like to get the petronix? also.

240Z- Check the wheels in my galery......they look similar by looking at the photo. Mine are Western Wheel with I believe 13 spokes Appliance made a similar one called Vector that had a few more spokes than the ones I have. My gallery has a close up of the wheel. BIll

I will occasionally wash down my engine using a degreaser without it running and then use a pressure washer to rinse it with the engine running. I've never experienced any problems. I try not to soak the distributor. True steam cleaning is done at some companies. I don't think it is actually steam though it looks like it.

I would check the fuse box first, if you haven't already. The fusble link is also a good choice. Did you put a new battery in after all? Check to see if you get spark at the plugs. After that you'll need the schematic to try and trace elsewhere. I know it's not much but all I have for now.

Just what is this oil? I surely hope you aren't thinking ANY oil will be good for 75K! Is this solid smoking or very thin looking? Usually white smoke can be steam (cracked block) or it is running rich.

Inf; Since you did remove the cap..I would check the wire from the capacitor that hangs outside the dist. to make sure it isn't shorting out..check for fraying on the wire. If in doubt replace it (cheap). That may have been your problem all along. I don't remember you saying you checked the spark gap or not. That should be set (and clean the points with a point file or super fine sandpaper -2000 grit) to specs. If the points look very bad or crusty then I would replace them as well. Hope that helps some. Bill

Well texasz, we're happy to have you and any others that want to learn and share their exploits about the famous ZZZZZZZZZZZZ.

Have you considered returning the kit?....or at least talking to them about the problem. They seem to want to help. Bill\ PS You won't know unless you try...maybe at least they will remove them from the catalog if they are not suitable.

You can't use the 240 retractor...the 70 model doesn't have one.

What kind of shot exactly are you asking for...meaning do you want a shot of the insides of the receptacles or just of the outsides of the buckles. I don't have retractors if that is what you want. What year are we talking about?

I thought I did use my name....isn't that it without a space:stupid:

"I need to take off the decorative side moulding strips to paint the 240. How are they attached and are there preferred removal and reattachment techniques? Same question for the emblems." The side molding is attached with double sided tape. Heat it a little with a heat gun and pull it off. Just buy new strips to replace with; it is available at parts stores and is cheap. Some of the emblems are attached thru holes in the metal work with clips holding them on the backside. Just access them where you can and carefully squeeze the clips to remove them. (especially if you plan to reuse them...the pins are plastic and can break easily)

I guess then it was you in the "other" catagory!

Where is the one "other" from?