Z train

Process of elimination.FP needs to be verified before beating your brains out on other "possibles".

Assuming the both dizzys are in good working order,the "US" one re-curved will be superior to the European one.Although the European one stock for stock is better than the emissioned US one,it will not have a "curve" "better"than one set-up specifically for your car.

Trading a point distributor for a points distributor is.......quite point-less.The Electronic distributor is superior to points in every measurable way. As Carl stated,take your distributor and have it re-curved.This "European dizzy" will have no advantage over a properly set up domestic one. One important point is that the curve must be all in by your cruising rpm. THe optimal set-up is an electronic dizzy with a proper advance curve.

Plumb a temp fuel pressure guage to the hood and run the car.Is there a return line on the car?

You're correct.But we are starting to get into semantics.A particular guage will pass "X" amps without melting.

Here's the applicator:

A 20 amp fusible link is a 20 amp fusible link.When the amperage reaches 20 amps-it burns/melts. An alternative is installing a spade fuse holder and then using a circuit breaker instead of the fuse.

If this is a used engine,now is the time to douche the pan out real good.Also make sure the pick-up screen is clear.

Break the motor mounts loose and jack up the motor untill the pan clears.No problems.

No,"rent-a-cop"is a private security guard.

Ohm meter.Check the sender with the engine off (key on-duh)then with it running.There should be a difference which would be listed in the FSM.

Pure logic. No Spock jokes ,please.

Batteries are one of the few things were the biggest one is the right one.

First thought is corrosion.Second is you're approaching the load rating of the link.

Sorry.

http://www.peranausa.com/

SD to Pittsburgh?Wait 'till December-parts of your body that you didn't know could disappear,will.

No such thing as "too many parts".Go get more....NOW.

Couple of things: 1)pay attention to the FSM.Folks like me in Arizona,the book calls for 140 weight.And 20/50 in the engine. 2)Make sure the vent on the trans is clear and operational.If it is plugged,the lube/vapor would have no other place to go than the shift opening.This goes for rearends too.Except when this vent gets plugged,the oil gets pushed past gaskets &seals.

Listen real close to the wording of the narrative.

....x2

THe Factory FI is a good piece.In it's day it had no rival especially from Detroit.You are letting a tiny problem steer you into massive $$ outlay when all you need to do is fix the existing FI.Parts are available and not that $$$$.Switching fuel delivery systems because of a "time table issue" on your part is really not a good idea. And if it is a timing issue,you'll still have the same problem and much llikely worse.

Yes.HOWEVER......Classic car policies have mileage restrictions & other limitations.And if you wreck it on your way to work-you're screwed. And you will still have an issue with the car that needs addressing.

ANY car in Arizona 15 years old or older that is insured under a "Classic Car policy"is emissions testing exempt.ALL motorcycles in the state DO NOT have to be tested unless you are in Maricopa County

Yours is a California car.And you're stuck with the Cat.CSV is the COLD START VALVE. Timing has to be right as a basis for everything else.Get a temp tag for the car. and lower your blood pressure a bit.