Z train

Nice car.Good re-paint.

THere are alternatives to "standard"fuel rails.Last picture towards the bottom of the page: http://www.sdsefi.com/index.html

Precisely what my Goon was doing.It was the solder joints.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?36903-280Z-ZX-ECM-tech&highlight=

T-stat is opening early or hanging open

The tank needs to come out & get douched.All rubber associated with the fuel system needs to be replaced.Injectors should be cleaned & flowed.

Do not attempt to start it WITHOUT first removing the entire fuel system and cleaning it.

Yep,i have to agree with you not a Pioneer in the ad car..But we digress...

Arne-would ya like to make a small wager?

No takers here.About the only thing better then was a Blaupunkt.But Pioneer had the better tuner section.

All things being equal,240ZGL is correct.However the header changes the equation.I'd use ultra-copper on teh exhaust portion of the gasket ONLY.Let it COMPLETELY dry before firing the car back up and your chances of an exhaust leak drop to nill.

Go ahead..say it:"smidgit". Yeah,FI hose ain't cheap.What about borrowing some line or borrowing some 4AN hose with fittings just for the test process? Also little tip: IF you replace the FPR and that doesn't do it,take it back off and soak it in rubbing alcohol over night.Then let it sit in the sun for a couple hours.THis will get rid of any fuel smell and the store SHOULD let you return it.

Believe it or not there aren't that many variances.If memory serves,the FPR keeps the FP 33.5 psi ABOVE manifold vacuum?I'm trying to recall this from the FSM.Once you know where/when the problem is happening,it should point the flying fickled finger of fate at the culprit.

Get a fuel pressure guage and run it back out of the hood and tape it to a windshield wiper and go for a ride with a friend.You need to know what FP is under different conditions as it will help to NOT chase your tail on this issue.

Wrapping the header voids any warrantee.Ceramic coat it or just paint it.

Here's the check valve i'm using: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRT-169-1002/ Here's my set-up.This was taken this morning. I believe (with 50% certainty)that my issue was the CSI.If it were one or two injectors,i wouldn't have had the biatch of a time that i had starting the car.One other observation:the "offending CSI was short(er) than the one i had cleaned & flowed.It also had a 180 degree discharge(straight down).The one i installed is a 90 degree discharge(straight back).Different years i assume.Or possibly a difference between L-24E & L-28s.

I'll post pics & part numbers in a couple days.basically the check valve is right after the filter and before my guage.A speed shop should have a standard in-line check valve.But i had to get one from Summit. Do you have a FP guage in-line?

A while ago,there was a"spirited" discussion as to "hot start issues" related to fuel delivery.My symptoms were that the car was hard to start when parked for 20-30 minutes.Cold -no issues,also when hot-no issues when parked for 5-10 minutes or longer than an hour. Last night(2000 hrs) i charged the system and at 0700 today,i still had 30+ psi of fuel pressure. The final test was today during some "errand running" with a ambient air temp of 106.5 degrees,190 degrees running temp and 220 degrees at re-start. No more starting issues PERIOD.In fact the car starts better at all temps and runs smoother. All i did was clean & flow all the injectors(CSI included)and installed a simple in-line valve from Summit on the inlet line.Obviously,there was a leaking injector.and i'm leaning towards the CSI as the culprit. So,like the FSM states,these vehicles CAN NOT vapor lock(with all parameters being with-in factory specs).

And I read it.Some good info,some bad. Are you saying that on a bone stock(insert L-motor here),that a 3 inch system will work better than a 2 or 2.5?

I have a three inch set up as my car is a 3.1 turbo car.Too big an exhaust pipe hurts performance-IF you aren't moving enough "gas" to utilize the diameter of the pipe. As to the headers,i would stay with a stock manifold also.Un-less you are tracking teh car,the benefits are negligible and we won't even discuss fitment issues,flange warping or leaking gaskets. I have a LZ-23 stroker in the wifes truck with a header.I used it because it was sitting on the shelf.The truck was also dyno'd when tuned,so i have numbers for it.I have a L-18 factory manifold all cleaned up and ready to be installed.I expect it to happen sometime around December or so.I will dyno it again and we will have some hard numbers.It's important to keep in mind that the motor was built to live BELOW 6,000 rpm as it's my wifes daily driver.Point being where the motor spends most of it's life(RPM-wise)is going to be a factor in the header/manifold equation. Question-what's so special with MSA's exhaust as opposed to having a local shop bend you one?

Especially when your post about the "return line in a accident "suggests you know more than the factory.

Even those guys can be wrong sometimes.

Deadheaded electrical pumps mean no fuel flowing thru it.No flow equals no cooling.No cooling equals shortened time to the pump being DEAD.Heat kills pumps,hence the reason most OEM's now use in-tank pumps. "Outstanding" is a relative term.And since you never had a return line hooked up,the word "oustanding" is erronious.If you had a return lne,the fuel delivered to the Mikuni's would be cooler,thus they would run even better.

Electric pumps should NEVER be deadheaded.(No Jerry Garcia jokes,please)