Z train

Quite the contrary.And you didn't answer my question.

2)displacement.302 what?SBF?Or than minorly less a piece of crap 302 SBC? 3)400's were a pile of junk also.Comparing V-8s to L motors is a non-sequitur. 4)Brush up on your reading comprehension, 5)What part of can't be done don't you get?What works for a 2.8l will not(always) work for a 3.1. 6)DO i need to keep telling you that CI & HP increases are not LINEAR?

1)Yes and no. 2)As an illustration of what a stroker can do.A "non-stroker" can never hope to achieve stroker "numbers". 3)Most of it as the header is quite point-less with a low RPM motor( i used it because i had it laying around and i'm in the process of having an L-16 manifold prepped) 4)The OP DID NOT mention "just a short block"in his original post.If you are doing a rebuild,then you are replacing the cam-this is a moot point. 5)What if? 6)Wrong-Horse-power increase with displacement increase is NOT linear. jmortensen- I looked thru those topics you linked.And i noticed one common thread.Tell me what it is.

Just had 24 tons of hay delivered the other day.

1)Good?How about extremely pertinant?The motor is in my wife's 620.It's is going to be used as a "run around/ranch/toy for her".I'm also dropping from the 4.37 gears to 3.88's which will put cruising rpm smack in the middle of that motor's torque "table". It also has a Weber & a header + a cam from Rebello's.I am not looking for HP as it is a ranch truck,and Dave's cam selection worked better than i could have hoped for. 2)Absolutely. 3)Why is it that you ignore that the major attribute of a stroker is torque?This is what makes the stroker work so well on a street car.And torque wins street races.

That would be really neat to see done. You have a leak in the cabin somewhere.At the age of these cars,seam sealant has dried and cracked and other gasket types have become porous.

Some of us GUYS should be able to give you a tip.....Below is what i did with my housing.And i used SS studs & nuts and then powdercoated it.As far as the Welder goes,first they are really REALLY handy.They are one of those"i don't know how i got along without it before" tools.Especially on a ranch.Having said all that.Save you money and buy a decent one.Make it 220volt and gas.Check out a Millermatic 180. To the stud issue.But a set of lefthand drill bits,cut the stud flat and simply drill it out.The bits will come in handy down the road also.

What vehicle is the motor in? What is it going to be used for? What am i doing with the gears?

Stock L-20B HorsePower -@ 112 @ 5600 RPM Ft. lbs. Torque 108 @ 3200 Keep in mind,these numbers are at the flywheel . Below are my actual numbers at the wheel.

You left the torque out of your equation.My LZ-23 had a FIFTY percent increase in torque.

If the stroker will not put you in a financial bind,do it.I have two.One is a 3.1 and the other is a LZ-23 and i wouldn't trade either one of them.

Bottom line:If a Z(1st gen) is in perfect order(perfect order meaning in as "left the factory condition",then how does adding a spoiler introduce exhaust fumes to the cabin? By the way,i have used no expletives or insults.

1)I'm not ignoring anything.Diameter has zero effect.My muffler/pipe(however you want to call it)ends in just about the same(or shorter) location as the stock one. 2)Yes it does.In fact it creates MORE negative pressure behind the car.which shoots YOUR theory in the arse. 3)The primary reason for spoilers is downforce over the rear tires. 4)This defies logic. 5)This is nothing more than a band-aid solution.The cause is still there.Now if some don't have the skills or inclination to re-seal everything,it is understandable for them to go the "extended pipe route". This is my 4th Z dating back to 1977.I have NEVER had any fume issue that wasn't attributed to a leaking cabin.

Find a 83ish ZX and tranfer the whole drivetrain.

This makes no sense as the two(fp & pedal) aren't connected.

How true!

They do not interchange.Manual ones are different from stick models.Later Z's had 02 sensors-earlier ones used thermal sensors.One thing to note-all pins are not used in all applications..

This topic started off with sopme great info & "how-to" advice but it is starting to take a "diverging route".Below you can see where my muffler ends.I have ZERO fumes in the cabin issues.Translation:Length of your tail pipe is NOT the problem.

FWIW:My DD is a 77 810 Goon.L-24E/auto/3.54s & 160,000 on the clock.I get about 19 MPG with a mixture of driving.

Note to all:Go to your local speed emporium and get a 60lb FP guage and install it between the filter and the rail.It will help immensly in trouble shooting things.

I would be more concerned with the part number than number of pins.

When the truck was dyno'd recently,there was a ONE HP difference between a paper element & no element.

Sorry i missed you the other night.

I was going to give my parts guy the old cartridge and let him match one up.

I'd go with that.