Z train

1)I'm not ignoring anything.Diameter has zero effect.My muffler/pipe(however you want to call it)ends in just about the same(or shorter) location as the stock one. 2)Yes it does.In fact it creates MORE negative pressure behind the car.which shoots YOUR theory in the arse. 3)The primary reason for spoilers is downforce over the rear tires. 4)This defies logic. 5)This is nothing more than a band-aid solution.The cause is still there.Now if some don't have the skills or inclination to re-seal everything,it is understandable for them to go the "extended pipe route". This is my 4th Z dating back to 1977.I have NEVER had any fume issue that wasn't attributed to a leaking cabin.

Find a 83ish ZX and tranfer the whole drivetrain.

This makes no sense as the two(fp & pedal) aren't connected.

How true!

They do not interchange.Manual ones are different from stick models.Later Z's had 02 sensors-earlier ones used thermal sensors.One thing to note-all pins are not used in all applications..

This topic started off with sopme great info & "how-to" advice but it is starting to take a "diverging route".Below you can see where my muffler ends.I have ZERO fumes in the cabin issues.Translation:Length of your tail pipe is NOT the problem.

FWIW:My DD is a 77 810 Goon.L-24E/auto/3.54s & 160,000 on the clock.I get about 19 MPG with a mixture of driving.

Note to all:Go to your local speed emporium and get a 60lb FP guage and install it between the filter and the rail.It will help immensly in trouble shooting things.

I would be more concerned with the part number than number of pins.

When the truck was dyno'd recently,there was a ONE HP difference between a paper element & no element.

Sorry i missed you the other night.

I was going to give my parts guy the old cartridge and let him match one up.

I'd go with that.

You really have to go way beyond "stock" in your engine to need more cooling than a porperly set-up factory system provides.

Or just buy another fan clutch.But if you do,go this route,call the maker and ask them what temp does the clutch lock-up at.Get the lower of the two.You would think that 810 & Z-car clutches are the same as they are visually identical,but they lock up at different temps. Or if,you have $$$$ buring a hole in your pocket-go electric.

The question i am referring to,is that you are leading up to doing something.What is it? But i digress. If you are thinking of going to an electric fan,do your homework on the CFM needed,also you'll have to make allowances for the extra amps the fan(s) will draw.and lastly,use the shroud that comes with the electric fan.

THe fan blade needs to be in a certain position in relation to the shroud.Ask your real question.

Warning about POR,if the metal doesn't have enough "tooth",the POR will peel in sheets like sunburned skin.

Interesting.Kinda counter productive for them.

The stuff in the tube.And let it COMPLETELY cure before starting the car.I've used it on header flanges for years now.Good stuff.

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http://www.paradisefoundshirts.com/Shirt-Collection.html Here's the link for the shirt.

I'm in Aruba(of all places) and i see this in a shop window.

Check all connections.Based on your description,the sender would be the next logical culprit.

Part of that is because you live in Gestapofornia.I 'm fortunate to have a PC guy near me with his own sandblasting booth and he is reasonable.He shoots satin black almost daily and i just drop off parts and he adds them to his "shoot for the day". Powdercoating is my new disease.Car stuff.MC stuff.House stuff.Ranch stuff.The wife got a little upset when i asked her if she thought the cat would look good in "Copper vein".