Z train

Hose them with some type of lube first.

And when you get it started,it runs but is shaking all over and after a minute or two it smooths out and all is normal-right?

Sounds like leaking fuel.Obvious targets are the Cold start injector and the 6 main ones.Cap the CS injector and see if it happens.If it still does,after you've cranked it for a bit,pull the plugs and see if any are wet.

THat's what it's all about.

True.

What engine is listed in the top right corner?Care to guess again?It's a 78 620 L-20B WITH A CARB. Point,set,match again.

So you got your in-correct info from books.I see.My info comes from wrenching since 1966. However,the FSM trumps all. Point,set match. Mike-you'll be fine with what you did.

1)I couldn't be bothered to look back at who posted it.THis observation is irrellevant 2)True.Because they are maintained better. 3)No kiddin' 4) no it is not.It is THE only thing. 5)WRONG 6) WRONG again 7)Semantical bullsh!t.No water in the manifold equals lower intake charge temps P.E.R.I.O.D. 8)Air temp stability?In a car?Out in the real world?No such thing. 9)Finally-yes-you are correct.But not on point. 10)But it works 11)Again not on point 12)True-but none of which applies to any part of this discussion. 13)True-but it is not the "earthshaking event"that you claim it to be. 14)Wrong-fuel management has no effect on how fast a engine comes up to operating temp all other factors being equal. 15)O.K.-make sure you have a good petcock or line valve that doesn't leak.Again-this is not an issue. The FSM lists the manifold water piping/tubes as an EMISSION CONTROL DEVICE. Since no-one here gives a Rat's arse about emissions during warm-up,it is NOT needed.

Time to find a new wrench.

Start-up/warm up-you're talking semantics. Bottom line-the manifold water system is NOT needed in warmer climates.It is also part of the emissions sytem.once the motor is to temperature,the manifold water is a DETRIMENT to performance.IF this is what you're after. Taking a diverging route for a minute,the FI on teh Z cars has it's version of a choke.It's called a "cold start injector".It's a "7th injector" for all purposes and it is mounted in the plenum of the manifold.So techically speaking,even the FI "washes" the cylinders during warm-up. The clyinder wall "washing" you speak of while technically you are correct,is negligible in actuality. From a performance point of view.The colder the intake manifold is,the better the car performs. They guy with the shut-off valve has a good idea.But i would take it one step further and install a petcock to drain the lines.Air make a better insulator than water.

Only during start-up.Once the engine is up to temp,the water in the manifold is completely redundant.Where you live and how much cold weather driving should be a factor in the "removal equation".

First-those are "heating lines".Like a exhaust X-over on a V-8.Starting and cold operation will be your only issues.Here in Az. there is no need for them-so they are long gone on my truck

Never returned my call and i never called again.

[quote name=Rocket88;328848 A new head gasket it is' date=' can you guys guess what my next post will be? QUOTE] How do i get my 14mm wrench back that landed in the Dobermans pen three houses down?

Do NOT forget the anti-seize!!!(not the head bolts though.)

Personal experience?Mine starts from 1966 and continues to this day.HG's are NOT supposed to weep,wizz(or moan),leak,show moisture or any other term anyone cares to use. If coolant is making it to the outside of the block without opening the radiator cap,something is BROKEN.Fix it. As for Bars leak and the like,they are a stop gap "get your arse home remedy"Or a "I'm selling this roach and don't give a $^!#" tool.They work by getting in every nook and cranny in the cooling system and PLUGGING it.How many little nooks & crannies in a original cooling sytem with all the rust & scale build up? A leaking HG,is going to pop sooner or later.(Odds are on sooner)Here's a question-the gasket will pop where: 1)In the most inconvienant place with probable head warpage 2)in your driveway 3)In the most inconvienant place with probable head warpage This whole topic can be reduced to a simple question:What do you do with a faulty part?

You have water leaking from the head.The HG is FAULTY.Anything other than replacing the HG and making sure the head is "flat" is a shade-tree mechanic HACK-job.

Your last line suggests that it is a fuel mixture issue.Possibly a vacuum leak causing it to lean.

51452Wix

Use the biggest battery that will fit.No such thing as "too big"(amp rating).FInd a shop that makes battery cables from welding cable(0 or00).You'll have no more starting issues.

1)Not to be confused with SU's that came on Z-cars. 2)You're right-they were worse.

You know Bjorn?

Cpmpression will not effect a black smoke issue.Take the plug off the computer and make sure it's clean.Same with ALL connections.

Admitting you have a problem is the first step to being cured. Welcome.

Clumsy