Z train

Go hit some pawn shops.There are screamin' deals to be had these days.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqMQtgeMp6I

I would consult your painter and ask him how the pearl might affect any repairs in the future should they be needed.THat might make up your mind for you.

Sure you should.Good info.Thanks.

Sorry-i didn't start this You'll take anything i decide to give you.

Typical keyboard commando.

WIth 400 HP to the ground that you now have,it shouldn't take you that long.

1)Only when i'm not wrong 2)Nope-only when i'm right-and i am. 3)Actually-she is VERY happy.SHe can't wait 'till i get the bugs out of her LZ-23 powered 620 so she can drive it. 4)No pride-just accuracy. 5)I don't recall calling anyone an "idiot".But keep it up and that might change. 6)No kidding?Wow!What a newsflash.Is the story on CNN? 7)Another news flash-Man-you are just chock full of revelations-aincha' boy? 8)Absolutely-and you are entitled to it ....as wrong as it may be. 9)Maybe this one is on MSNBC. 10)Never worked as a wrench. 11)Crass?-no, i want accurate. ANd for the second time-answer the question:Who was bragging?And what "sound technical advice" did you post to this topic? Almost forgot-learn to use you "cap button".

Thought so.

And EXACTLY what "sound ADVICE" did you post in this topic?ANd who was bragging?

FWIW-we don't have ethanol in our gas here and i'm havingf the same issue.

Actually it's meddling idiots like you who feel the need to stick their nose in where it doesn't belong.Yeah,there was some dis-agreement in this topic.I'm sure there will be again somewhere-SO WHAT?If you don't like it and don't post to it.

My 810 does the same thing.I've been toying with the idea of getting the injectors cleaned but hav not gotten off my arse to so it.

Hose them with some type of lube first.

And when you get it started,it runs but is shaking all over and after a minute or two it smooths out and all is normal-right?

Sounds like leaking fuel.Obvious targets are the Cold start injector and the 6 main ones.Cap the CS injector and see if it happens.If it still does,after you've cranked it for a bit,pull the plugs and see if any are wet.

THat's what it's all about.

True.

What engine is listed in the top right corner?Care to guess again?It's a 78 620 L-20B WITH A CARB. Point,set,match again.

So you got your in-correct info from books.I see.My info comes from wrenching since 1966. However,the FSM trumps all. Point,set match. Mike-you'll be fine with what you did.

1)I couldn't be bothered to look back at who posted it.THis observation is irrellevant 2)True.Because they are maintained better. 3)No kiddin' 4) no it is not.It is THE only thing. 5)WRONG 6) WRONG again 7)Semantical bullsh!t.No water in the manifold equals lower intake charge temps P.E.R.I.O.D. 8)Air temp stability?In a car?Out in the real world?No such thing. 9)Finally-yes-you are correct.But not on point. 10)But it works 11)Again not on point 12)True-but none of which applies to any part of this discussion. 13)True-but it is not the "earthshaking event"that you claim it to be. 14)Wrong-fuel management has no effect on how fast a engine comes up to operating temp all other factors being equal. 15)O.K.-make sure you have a good petcock or line valve that doesn't leak.Again-this is not an issue. The FSM lists the manifold water piping/tubes as an EMISSION CONTROL DEVICE. Since no-one here gives a Rat's arse about emissions during warm-up,it is NOT needed.

Time to find a new wrench.

Start-up/warm up-you're talking semantics. Bottom line-the manifold water system is NOT needed in warmer climates.It is also part of the emissions sytem.once the motor is to temperature,the manifold water is a DETRIMENT to performance.IF this is what you're after. Taking a diverging route for a minute,the FI on teh Z cars has it's version of a choke.It's called a "cold start injector".It's a "7th injector" for all purposes and it is mounted in the plenum of the manifold.So techically speaking,even the FI "washes" the cylinders during warm-up. The clyinder wall "washing" you speak of while technically you are correct,is negligible in actuality. From a performance point of view.The colder the intake manifold is,the better the car performs. They guy with the shut-off valve has a good idea.But i would take it one step further and install a petcock to drain the lines.Air make a better insulator than water.

Only during start-up.Once the engine is up to temp,the water in the manifold is completely redundant.Where you live and how much cold weather driving should be a factor in the "removal equation".

First-those are "heating lines".Like a exhaust X-over on a V-8.Starting and cold operation will be your only issues.Here in Az. there is no need for them-so they are long gone on my truck