Z train

My second 810(not running at the moment) held fuel pressure(down to 10 pounds) for FOUR MONTHS before i cracked open the line.I'd say the check valve is fine.:tapemouth

This is flat physically IMPOSSIBLE. The check valve on my 810 is failing.I know this.It has starting issues.My turbo car (which runs even hotter)has no failing parts and it has no issues. __________________________________________________________________________________________________________ By Mr.Blake: The confusion here is in the semantics between true 'vapor lock' and 'vapor lock type symptoms'. In the combined 18 years of the 'joy of ownership' of mid to late 70s Datsun EFI vehicles the only time I ever experienced that was when the check valve went bad on my 810. Replaced it - no further problems. It gets well over 100 degrees everywhere I've lived here in those 18 years. If it happens on a carbed car it's vapor lock if it happens on an EFI car is a mechanical problem that manifests itself with vapor lock type symptoms. When everything is right, it will never happen. That can't be said of carbed cars. Even with wrapped fuel lines the fuel pressure is only, what, 3-5 psi.? Mirrors my experiences with the exception of the wifes truck (78 620 2.3 stroker)having a DGV Weber with a return line and zero vapor lock issues.

Damn-ya beat me to that one.

Time to play with trains.See ya Thursday-ish.

1)Right.The ones with MECHANICAL problems are the ones that do. 2)Are you saying that the engine bay of my turbo stroker is COOLER than the factory issued 810? 3)On cranking? 4)Thanks. 5)Neither hood is vented. 6)Yes,Yes- i am.

Really?Then explain why my Z engine(below) has NEVER "vaporlocked(for lack of a accurate word) But my daily driver 810 has warm start issues due to the fact that the check valve in the fuel pump is basically shot,thus letting pressure bleed off allowing the vapor to form.But the Z's system is perfect,thus no issues.

S.O.B,we actually agree on something.

Bruce,here it's actually the heating radiating upwards off the asphalt that magnifies the heat.If i pop the hood and leave it sit on the safety catch,i have no issues restarting. THe wifes 620 is my only carbed vehicle.I have a functioning return system and NO insulation and i have zero vapor lock issues.

Double post

Bitchin' ' color.I had a 240 years ago painted Plum Crazy.Be carefull Sassy Grass & Sublime green are close but not the same color. http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=sublime+green&mid=E06353FEF2E5E1E97DC6E06353FEF2E5E1E97DC6&view=detail&FORM=VIRE3

Try priming for 30 seconds.If you can hear the FP,you SHOULD notice a change in pitch. On a related note,tomorrow i have some running around to do.I'm going to bring my IR thermometer with me just for shits & giggles.

We are running temps of 105 to 114 these days.My 810 runs fine EXCEPT when i park it for 15 to 20 minutes.Then i have a start issue as the fuel has become so hot it has pushed past the reg.FI cars don't vapor lock. Sarah,since you like tinkering,if you ran a momentary "on" switch to the fuel pump(or FP relay),you could over come this by turning the FP on with the switch.Datsun designed their FI cars to allow power to the fuel pump ONLY when the motor cranking or turning. Carb guys like the OP-insulate every line you can get your hands on under the hood.A functioning return system is mandatory. Another possiblility is the injector blower from the later 280 cars.

First thing to check is grounding.Sounds like something is hunting for a ground,and when you step on the brakes,it has it.

Gee,and the HydridZ topic almost mirrors my postings.Go figure.......

Wrong again.You need to retro fit a cam position sensor..

Each ECU was different for the years & Fed/ California models.MOST had different wiring harnesses.

Are you suggesting that i am the only one of this opinion(sequential FI)?

1)Because i've been wrenching for 40+ years.And retro fitting sequential to an L-motor is NOT a good return on investment.Bang-for-the-buck for some people 2)No,my statement is fact. 3)I didn't edit your quote. 4)Again,EXTREMELY limited and expensive value. 5)Nothing is too subtle for.However,your comprehension has an issue. 6)I didn't reference age as an issue.YOU made a smart arse comment about it.

The Ford EDIS-6 ia good way of reducing the cost.And the system works well.A lot of FI conversions use it.

1)True.However,my "opinion" also happens to be fact. 2)We are not talking about aesthetics-we are talking about function. 3)Try reading the topic title.

1)Wrong. 2)Correct.But not without serious engineering to retro fit.ANd the benefits gained do NOT warrant the expense. 3)Last i checked,L-motors are 37+ years old.

Sarah,the stock system will NEVER come close to a"O2 sensor driven system" in terms of economy and all other aspects,for that matter.

Don't forget notching the intake ports for the injectors.

For sequential,you cam postion sensors.Really overkill requiring over engineering.But the other stuff is usefull.Example: Start out with just the fuel. Then the timing. Then coil packs Then elimiante the distributor altogether