het976

I have owned several BMWs...In the past I have owned every generation of 3 except the latest, including an 2004 M3 convertable. Loved the car..HATED the SMG... I also loved the 635 Ci ...white with Gold BBS' so 80's. Currently I have a 1994 840C...probably my favorite so far; very few made, nice V8 and 5 speed auto...

Wow, I thought I was unlucky with two bad sending units. Too bad you had to go through all that extra work, but great it is up and running.

I need a new headliner, so depending on the price, I would be in.

Good luck...let us know how it works...Someone suggested not tightening the bottom screws so the dash can kind of float as the car twists.

I do my own powdercoating and bought a used Jennair oven only for $125.00. It works for most car parts, although I can't do a L6 cam cover, but I was able to do most of the front suspension. I use a coating system from Harbor Freight that uses a compressor, although Sears offers one that does not use a compressor and does a decent job. I would not suggest using the house oven for this, as there is a residue that coats the inside of the oven over time. Even when empty, during the pre-heat phase, there is a pretty strong odor.

Asked another way...how much oil did you drain when you were looking for metal? I ran a Datsun 2000 roadster motor out of oil due to a lost drain plug. As soon as it started to shudder I realized something was wrong and shut it down. I refilled it and it ran about a day before it dropped a rod. Your luck may be better.

I think I will hang on to my 68 Roadster for a while longer :classic:

Just an FYI... I had the same issue many years ago (c1985)....bought a new sending unit and still got low readings...then bought a cheap mechanical gauge and verified there was oil pressure, assumed it was the gauge and drove it many years with no oil pressure gauge. Sometime later I found a used gauge put it in...still no oil pressure, turned out the new sending unit I bought years back was bad too... So, you might get a cheap mechanical oil pressure gauge and see if you really have pressure then go from there.

Hi...I know Wayne and just sent him a text summary of this. I have always found him to be 100% standup guy. Let's hope he can clear this up quickly.

Thanks all...I have brand new points dist that I will plug in and see what happens...Still leaning towards an LS3.

Not to hi-jack the post, but.. What you are dealing with is very much the same thing I am experiencing, except, I only notice it in 2nd gear. As I bring it up to 4500 it runs well, but when I tip in a little more throttle, it just runs flat and burbles and pops and makes no power...lift off the throttle a little and it clears up and runs fine...nail it and it pulls fine to the redline, although the tach does some pretty wild bouncing as I reach 7K. It seems like SU issues, except when it is running flat, the tach bounces from 4K to 5K then 3.5K to 5.5k and so on...if I hold it there eventually it will bounce from 0 to 7K... This makes me think it is electrical or some strange combo. I have a ZX dist on a 2.8L with a mild cam and header, running ZT rebuilt carbs with SM needles. The tach is the stock 240Z and I am thinking this may be part of my issue. The engine has about 1,000 miles on it and has run more or less like this from the start. It is drivable, but just not clean. I have a lot of troubleshooting to do, based on what I read here before I ask for help, but I thought I would post to add in my experience. I am going to switch to an old set of stock SUs and see if it clears up the problem, then change to a 280 tach, then drop in an LS3, in that order…

I did not put the one that is on my car, but there is a plastic cover which covers up the holes where the sides of the bumper connect to the body. On my car it looks like these are attached with double sticky tape. In the picture below, it is the piece that is shaped like the state of Oklahoma. Yours may have a similar part. Also, see the note on leaving the bottom of the dam unpainted or painted in a way that is easy to repair. That was done by putting a floor jack under the lip.

I replaced the thermostat...the old one was sticking...I also rewired the electric fans so they shut off with the ignition. I got the driver side dome light switch working. I also adjusted the SUs a little…All in all a productive day.

I have a 78 under dash harness if it is of use. Just pay the shipping.

I put leather, heated, power seats from BMW Z3 in my 71. They are mounted on custom mounts we welded in when we did the floor pan replacement. They look a lot like the stock seats, but work so much better.