het976

I have owned several BMWs...In the past I have owned every generation of 3 except the latest, including an 2004 M3 convertable. Loved the car..HATED the SMG... I also loved the 635 Ci ...white with Gold BBS' so 80's. Currently I have a 1994 840C...probably my favorite so far; very few made, nice V8 and 5 speed auto...

Wow, I thought I was unlucky with two bad sending units. Too bad you had to go through all that extra work, but great it is up and running.

I need a new headliner, so depending on the price, I would be in.

Good luck...let us know how it works...Someone suggested not tightening the bottom screws so the dash can kind of float as the car twists.

I do my own powdercoating and bought a used Jennair oven only for $125.00. It works for most car parts, although I can't do a L6 cam cover, but I was able to do most of the front suspension. I use a coating system from Harbor Freight that uses a compressor, although Sears offers one that does not use a compressor and does a decent job. I would not suggest using the house oven for this, as there is a residue that coats the inside of the oven over time. Even when empty, during the pre-heat phase, there is a pretty strong odor.

Asked another way...how much oil did you drain when you were looking for metal? I ran a Datsun 2000 roadster motor out of oil due to a lost drain plug. As soon as it started to shudder I realized something was wrong and shut it down. I refilled it and it ran about a day before it dropped a rod. Your luck may be better.

I think I will hang on to my 68 Roadster for a while longer :classic:

Just an FYI... I had the same issue many years ago (c1985)....bought a new sending unit and still got low readings...then bought a cheap mechanical gauge and verified there was oil pressure, assumed it was the gauge and drove it many years with no oil pressure gauge. Sometime later I found a used gauge put it in...still no oil pressure, turned out the new sending unit I bought years back was bad too... So, you might get a cheap mechanical oil pressure gauge and see if you really have pressure then go from there.

Hi...I know Wayne and just sent him a text summary of this. I have always found him to be 100% standup guy. Let's hope he can clear this up quickly.

Thanks all...I have brand new points dist that I will plug in and see what happens...Still leaning towards an LS3.

Not to hi-jack the post, but.. What you are dealing with is very much the same thing I am experiencing, except, I only notice it in 2nd gear. As I bring it up to 4500 it runs well, but when I tip in a little more throttle, it just runs flat and burbles and pops and makes no power...lift off the throttle a little and it clears up and runs fine...nail it and it pulls fine to the redline, although the tach does some pretty wild bouncing as I reach 7K. It seems like SU issues, except when it is running flat, the tach bounces from 4K to 5K then 3.5K to 5.5k and so on...if I hold it there eventually it will bounce from 0 to 7K... This makes me think it is electrical or some strange combo. I have a ZX dist on a 2.8L with a mild cam and header, running ZT rebuilt carbs with SM needles. The tach is the stock 240Z and I am thinking this may be part of my issue. The engine has about 1,000 miles on it and has run more or less like this from the start. It is drivable, but just not clean. I have a lot of troubleshooting to do, based on what I read here before I ask for help, but I thought I would post to add in my experience. I am going to switch to an old set of stock SUs and see if it clears up the problem, then change to a 280 tach, then drop in an LS3, in that order…

I did not put the one that is on my car, but there is a plastic cover which covers up the holes where the sides of the bumper connect to the body. On my car it looks like these are attached with double sticky tape. In the picture below, it is the piece that is shaped like the state of Oklahoma. Yours may have a similar part. Also, see the note on leaving the bottom of the dam unpainted or painted in a way that is easy to repair. That was done by putting a floor jack under the lip.

I replaced the thermostat...the old one was sticking...I also rewired the electric fans so they shut off with the ignition. I got the driver side dome light switch working. I also adjusted the SUs a little…All in all a productive day.

I have a 78 under dash harness if it is of use. Just pay the shipping.

I put leather, heated, power seats from BMW Z3 in my 71. They are mounted on custom mounts we welded in when we did the floor pan replacement. They look a lot like the stock seats, but work so much better.

Hi Wick... It is nice to be able say thank you "in person" for the great help in your book. By the way, I got my Z back after almost 10 years away. I found it and won it back off of eBay; so it can happen.

Wow,that is nice...

Seriously...look at even the 2011 base V6 Mustang...0-60 in 5.1 sec...That is what 305HP and a 7K redline will get you...and 30 plus MPG.

Nothing new to add, but when I got my car back it was a roller. I found a totaled 78 Black Pearl so I got the motor, 5 speed and R200 in one chunk. If it had the original engine I would have kept it. It was plenty quick with the cam and header with a 5 speed.

Congratulations...same thing happened to me. Bought my 71 back after being gone for almost 10 years. Found it in Beaverton...If you are like me, you will think, "Man, what was I thinking and why did I do that?" many time in the rebuilding process. Enjoy.

The one at HF that I looked at had gloves that allowed you to touch the back wall and the sides. Maybe the one you looked at was not assembled right.

I don't think the issue is my application. I think the material I am using is designed to provide some texture. I used it on the dash and got the same result. All materials I have used it on, both plastic and metal are sanded, then degreased with prep-sol and then cleaned with SEM plastic prep, so they are clean. The garage is heated and at 70 degrees and finally, I am pretty sure I shook the can. Application is 3 wet semi-wet coats...no drips or runs. I really think the material is designed to have a some texture since it is used to repaint bumpers and trim parts. Regardless, I really like it the way it is and I think it looks good, but if you are looking to "re-paint" it is maybe not the right product.

Like I said...the're everywhere

240 engines are pretty common as most people seem to either go RB/V8 or move up to the the L28. Finding one in your area should not be hard. Get the book, "How to Modify your Nissan and Datsun OHC engine" by Frank Honsowetz Also go the HybridZ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php Start searching, there is a lot of information there. Do not ask basic questions, you will just get embarrassed, they expect you to search and do the work yourself, but will willingly help if you are willing to help yourself. It has all been answered there...SEARCH first and after you are educated, ask all the questions you need. As for your racing plans, go for it. As long as you do it with your eyes open, it is expensive. The Z is probably not the best choice for a starter car, but follow your dream and the money will follow...or so they say. There are a lot of guys at HybirdZ who race Zs.

Be aware, the SEM paint I used will give a texture. I had to do this because I had filled and sanded the console. If you just want a refresh, it might not be the best choice. Since one of the original posts was about filling and repair, I thought this germane to the discussions.