barth4567

Yes thats what it turned out to be. I primed it and away she went. Thanks for the help. This is what this site is so good for. Z-Car people helping each other. I was depressed to see the apparent issues between Mike and Dave. Hope they work it out. I am on a website out here. about fishing and it used to be the greatest place. It has gotten so bad that I do not look there anymore. It is just no fun period. I remember what it was like to have fun, and the good times that went it. Where have they gone? Thanks to both Bruce Palmer and you 5th horseman.

Yeah Bruce I put gas in the tank before I tried those different things. There are no other pumps in line on the car. I am going to blow some air back thru fuel line today. I am really thinking there is some crap in the line somewhere. She ran like a top when I parked her. I just did not have very much gas in the tank. I know thats not good. As for the fuel pump I have it out in the garage with some degreaser on it. I am pretty sure it is ok. I will let you know how it goes. And thanks for the great advice. One question for you. What is your opinion on a electric fuel pump? I have heard different opinions about them. I don't even know why I am asking since the original lasted darn near 40 years. Thanks John

I let my car set for a couple of weeks with just a little gas in the tank. Long story short. I went to start her up and no go at at all. Plenty of spark so I am looking at a fuel issue. The fuel filter had gas in it so I figured it was plugged.It needed to be replaced so I did. No gas came up into the new filter. The original fuel pump ( from 1972) is still on the car so I figured the fuel pump was bad. I replaced it and still no gas to the filter. I am getting upset now. So I pulled the hose off the intake side of the pump and using a little funnel poured gas and had my wife crank the car over. It worked and the car fired right up.So now I am thinking maybe I have an obstruction between the tank and the filter.Do I need to prime the filter? And if the fuel line is plugged can I blow compressed back towards the tank? I guess I should have not let my car set. Never had an issue like this before, My car is a 1972. Any thoughts on how to correct this dilemma without pulling the tank? Thanks in advance. John

I was looking at the crank pulley today on a new engine i am putting together for my 72. It is a L24 out of another parts car. It has a two row pulley and I was looking at it and i cannot find any timing notces or marks. The motor in my car is a three row with the pointer and notches. I think I am going to need a different pulley in order to time it. This does not seem normal to me. ( all the pulleys I have seen have notches or that piece that is attached to the pulley. Anybody have thoughts or advice on this? Thanks in advance John:)

By the way ,Dave did a great job of rebuilding the carbs.

Thanks Bruce. Dave Irwin rebuilt these so I will make and plug the holes correctly. Thanks again.

I was just wondering how many of you have eliminated the hot water line thru the carbs and the return line on the other side of the motor. With what results? I live in Oregon so it gets a little cold in the winter. I have a new motor put together and noticed after I put the manifold and everything:angry: on that the exit hole on the back was plugged because the threads were broken off internally. I guess I could take them out with an easy out, but I know that some people just eliminate the line and was just wondering what they thought. It would be an easier solution for sure . Any thoughts? Thanks in advance John

I have got a set of the ansen sprint wheels. I believe they are 14x7's. They are in really good shape and I would be willing to part with them for $150.00 I bought this car from a second owner and he said original owner put them on the car. I put Konig rewinds on it two years ago. Just a thought.

I don't think your old plugs look bad at all. For what it's worth get rid of the Autolite and go to NGK. Just my opinion.

That does not sound right to me. Been running a 13lb cap forever on my 1972 I think I would put a new radiator in if it was me. Just put one in mine last year and it was less than $200.00. Those old radiators are just not worth messing around with. Just my opinion:)

I will call Roger tomorrow night. I am working Saturday and after todays meeting with our owner probably alot more thru the summer. Like they say,"don't worry about the mule just load the wagon".:classic: I guess if I did not work I would'nt know what to do.

Arne: I put my Pertronix in over three years ago and it still works just fine. Running the same Ngk plugs you are,Beck Arnley Cap,Rotor,and Beck Arnley 7mm wires. Left the stock coil in as well as the Ballast Resistor and really changed nothing out. Timing is about the same as yours. My distributor is the original,far from completely tight, and probably needs to be rebuilt. Original Motor has over 250k and is using some oil. Still runs fine. I do run premium gas from Chevron. Only problem I have ever had is pinging once in awhile. And yes this was after two E-1280 failures. Anyway I try to keep things as simple as I can and it works for me. I am a shadetree mechanic at best.:laugh: I know how particular you are about your car. Just cannot understand why it won't work for you. Gary and Roger helped me and I have never looked back. I am planning on putting a New/Oem/ Rebuilt distributor in this summer,and having my original rebuilt. No magic here. Alot of guys seem to run different types of ignitions and if they work for them I say very cool. If you like your points and are happy that is all that really matters is it not? Or not. Just my opinion.

I took out the stock R-180 out of my 1972 with 3.36 gears and replaced it with a R-200 out of a 1976 that had a 3.54 rear differential. Big difference. I was pretty surprised. Stronger,yes I am sure. I have alot of parts for my car and I am sure they get harder too find . The doors will will work as well as the front fenders,quarter glass, rear hatch. Alot of things 70 thru 78 will match up. However a few things will not. You can buy many things "aftermarket" or old stock NOS/OEM. I prefer "original". There are just a few things that are really hard to find. Just my opinion:D

Very well said E. I have fought this issue more than once,and I am sure I will again. I have had these cars for many years and I actually think it is part of owning one.

You could spend less than a $100.00 and put a Pertronix in your car. Bullet proof really and I am the running stock coil and ballast resistor. One of the very best things I ever did for my 72. And yes, it was after two (2) E-1280 failures. That was just a pain in the behind. You can still buy them new at a Nissan dealer,but it will give you a heart attack for what they want. Pertronix has been in my car for over three years and absolutely no issues whatever. Just my opinion.:classic: