barth4567

Yes thats what it turned out to be. I primed it and away she went. Thanks for the help. This is what this site is so good for. Z-Car people helping each other. I was depressed to see the apparent issues between Mike and Dave. Hope they work it out. I am on a website out here. about fishing and it used to be the greatest place. It has gotten so bad that I do not look there anymore. It is just no fun period. I remember what it was like to have fun, and the good times that went it. Where have they gone? Thanks to both Bruce Palmer and you 5th horseman.

Yeah Bruce I put gas in the tank before I tried those different things. There are no other pumps in line on the car. I am going to blow some air back thru fuel line today. I am really thinking there is some crap in the line somewhere. She ran like a top when I parked her. I just did not have very much gas in the tank. I know thats not good. As for the fuel pump I have it out in the garage with some degreaser on it. I am pretty sure it is ok. I will let you know how it goes. And thanks for the great advice. One question for you. What is your opinion on a electric fuel pump? I have heard different opinions about them. I don't even know why I am asking since the original lasted darn near 40 years. Thanks John

I let my car set for a couple of weeks with just a little gas in the tank. Long story short. I went to start her up and no go at at all. Plenty of spark so I am looking at a fuel issue. The fuel filter had gas in it so I figured it was plugged.It needed to be replaced so I did. No gas came up into the new filter. The original fuel pump ( from 1972) is still on the car so I figured the fuel pump was bad. I replaced it and still no gas to the filter. I am getting upset now. So I pulled the hose off the intake side of the pump and using a little funnel poured gas and had my wife crank the car over. It worked and the car fired right up.So now I am thinking maybe I have an obstruction between the tank and the filter.Do I need to prime the filter? And if the fuel line is plugged can I blow compressed back towards the tank? I guess I should have not let my car set. Never had an issue like this before, My car is a 1972. Any thoughts on how to correct this dilemma without pulling the tank? Thanks in advance. John

I was looking at the crank pulley today on a new engine i am putting together for my 72. It is a L24 out of another parts car. It has a two row pulley and I was looking at it and i cannot find any timing notces or marks. The motor in my car is a three row with the pointer and notches. I think I am going to need a different pulley in order to time it. This does not seem normal to me. ( all the pulleys I have seen have notches or that piece that is attached to the pulley. Anybody have thoughts or advice on this? Thanks in advance John:)

By the way ,Dave did a great job of rebuilding the carbs.

Thanks Bruce. Dave Irwin rebuilt these so I will make and plug the holes correctly. Thanks again.

I was just wondering how many of you have eliminated the hot water line thru the carbs and the return line on the other side of the motor. With what results? I live in Oregon so it gets a little cold in the winter. I have a new motor put together and noticed after I put the manifold and everything:angry: on that the exit hole on the back was plugged because the threads were broken off internally. I guess I could take them out with an easy out, but I know that some people just eliminate the line and was just wondering what they thought. It would be an easier solution for sure . Any thoughts? Thanks in advance John

I have got a set of the ansen sprint wheels. I believe they are 14x7's. They are in really good shape and I would be willing to part with them for $150.00 I bought this car from a second owner and he said original owner put them on the car. I put Konig rewinds on it two years ago. Just a thought.

I don't think your old plugs look bad at all. For what it's worth get rid of the Autolite and go to NGK. Just my opinion.

That does not sound right to me. Been running a 13lb cap forever on my 1972 I think I would put a new radiator in if it was me. Just put one in mine last year and it was less than $200.00. Those old radiators are just not worth messing around with. Just my opinion:)

I will call Roger tomorrow night. I am working Saturday and after todays meeting with our owner probably alot more thru the summer. Like they say,"don't worry about the mule just load the wagon".:classic: I guess if I did not work I would'nt know what to do.

Arne: I put my Pertronix in over three years ago and it still works just fine. Running the same Ngk plugs you are,Beck Arnley Cap,Rotor,and Beck Arnley 7mm wires. Left the stock coil in as well as the Ballast Resistor and really changed nothing out. Timing is about the same as yours. My distributor is the original,far from completely tight, and probably needs to be rebuilt. Original Motor has over 250k and is using some oil. Still runs fine. I do run premium gas from Chevron. Only problem I have ever had is pinging once in awhile. And yes this was after two E-1280 failures. Anyway I try to keep things as simple as I can and it works for me. I am a shadetree mechanic at best.:laugh: I know how particular you are about your car. Just cannot understand why it won't work for you. Gary and Roger helped me and I have never looked back. I am planning on putting a New/Oem/ Rebuilt distributor in this summer,and having my original rebuilt. No magic here. Alot of guys seem to run different types of ignitions and if they work for them I say very cool. If you like your points and are happy that is all that really matters is it not? Or not. Just my opinion.

I took out the stock R-180 out of my 1972 with 3.36 gears and replaced it with a R-200 out of a 1976 that had a 3.54 rear differential. Big difference. I was pretty surprised. Stronger,yes I am sure. I have alot of parts for my car and I am sure they get harder too find . The doors will will work as well as the front fenders,quarter glass, rear hatch. Alot of things 70 thru 78 will match up. However a few things will not. You can buy many things "aftermarket" or old stock NOS/OEM. I prefer "original". There are just a few things that are really hard to find. Just my opinion:D

Very well said E. I have fought this issue more than once,and I am sure I will again. I have had these cars for many years and I actually think it is part of owning one.

You could spend less than a $100.00 and put a Pertronix in your car. Bullet proof really and I am the running stock coil and ballast resistor. One of the very best things I ever did for my 72. And yes, it was after two (2) E-1280 failures. That was just a pain in the behind. You can still buy them new at a Nissan dealer,but it will give you a heart attack for what they want. Pertronix has been in my car for over three years and absolutely no issues whatever. Just my opinion.:classic:

I think it looks great. My car is Orange/Red/ Persimmon/primer Gray. And if it makes you happy, that is all that really matters. After all it is your car.:classic:

Live in Oregon. Had these cars for over thirty years. Never ran the switch in the winter position. Never. My 1972 gets driven pretty much every day. And it did get cold this winter a couple of times. For what its worth.

Not trying to hijack your thread. I replaced the bearings both sides. Got those thru Napa. I got the the replacement nuts thru Nissan as well as new spindle nuts. The bearings were a real pain in the you know what. They were the original bearings and we took them to a shop and they pressed them off. Big press and they did not come off easy. As for the nuts, I Hope you have a 1/2 inch drive air impact wrench. They did not come off without a fight either. Two very good friends helped me and it was not only needed but much appreciated. All in all it was a pretty big job but once you get them tore apart and then put back together it really was not that bad. You will need the right tools though,including a large torque wrench

You can get OEM from Motorsport Auto. They are alot better quality than the ones you will get from Black Dragon although they are cheaper. In this case I personally would go OEM. Also, just to clarify, I bought a set from Black Dragon and was not happy with the quality. Anytime I replace parts on my Z I always try to get OEM when possible. I have never been unhappy with a Datsun/Nissan part. There are however good quality after market parts out there as well. My opinion only:classic:

That is part of what I am going to work on today. My car dosen't have the rust issue's that your car has but it has the smell although not as bad. I am going to replace the tailight gaskets today and seal all around the hoses and any other opening I can find back there. I have to admit the exhaust smell is frustrating to say the least.:sick: But it is one of the little things that go with these cars. I Am glad to see that you got your problem fixed. Love to drive mine "fast" with the window or windows down. Thanks for the update. Thats what makes this site so good. John

It could be the Gauge itself or more likely the sender unit in the tank also. The sending units are still available OEM and I would start there. A whole lot easier than replacing a Gauge.:classic: My opinion only. John

I agree completely. I say that because I have been thru the wheel bearing thing with my 1972, as well as several other Z Car related issues's. And sitting for so long did not help anything on your car as well. And I say this because mine sat in a garage for 7 1/2 years. One of the first things I did was get rid of the 3.36 R180 and put in a 3.54 R200.What a difference. Got the R200 for $150.00. Now 6 years later and many hours of tinkering and fixing it runs perfectly. Drive him just about every day and we both love it. Now all I have to do is get a little extra cash together so he can get painted.

I grew up around and with muscle cars. Loved them then and now. I really love my 72 Z car though as well. :classic: I was down at the Dodge dealership today and looked at a 2009 Black Hemi Challenger. I would almost remove a body part to get my hands on that bad girl. Man what a ride.:classic: Now all I need is 30+ thousand dollars.

I too have had good dealings with MSA. But thru trial and error I have learned to be real careful about "after market parts". I don't care where they come from. Not that there are not quality aftermarket parts out there. I have never gone wrong with an OEM Nissan part. They may cost more ( wherever they come from) but in fact you do get what you pay for. As far as the rubber dust covers, mine have been on forever it seems like and they are still ok. I do have another set in my garage however. I have had Z cars for over 35 years and just prefer OEM parts when I can get them. Merely my opinion. Good luck.

They do have alot of good stuff, but they are way high on alot of things. $62.00 for a piece of plastic is sick. I still have the original and a couple of others that I took off other cars. Just cleaned them up and they are fine. There are alot of parts for these cars left, you just have to take the time and look.MSA wants nearly $300.00 for a stock power antenna and you can get one several "places' for considerably less. I like MSA but they get what they get because there are alot of people willing to pay their price. And to be totally fair I have bought parts from them because I was in a bind and needed a part and could not get it anywhere else at the time. Furthur, never had a bad transaction with them and they were easy to work with. You can find almost any part for these cars( new or used) if you take the time to look and do the research. Almost.:classic: Just my two cents.