greekmaster

That's exactly what I did with the previous TPS, but I would really rather not uncover my new one. The previous TPS I adjusted to open at 1400, but again, that required me to drill out the rivets and mess the whole cover up. I'd rather not, so if you have an other trick way of doing it I'm all ears. Nathan

And . . . for the record the VIN is jn1hz04s3dx561264 Nathan

Almost forgot. In the last picture you can see the vacuum control module. Is it needed? Why does it only appears in the routing diagram for the turbo model? In the manual I have it is supposed to go to the EGR as well as the auxiliary air control valve. It has four vacuum ports on it, so it is trying to be a big player in this vacuum system. Thanks again, Nathan

Here goes: I took off the fuel rail to replace the injectors, so that is gone in the pics. The pictures posted are of the underside of the throttle, the vacuum advance, the EGR and surrounding vacuum connections, and then of the mysterious vacuum control module. How do I hook up the control module? It never appears in any of the service modules. You can see in the pic of the EGR that I have some unused and badly plugged vacuum ports. Any idea of where they go or what was supposed to be there? I checked the VIN and there is no "T" in it, so I don't think I have a hacked turbo. Basically I need to see a good example of what a good vacuum routing looks like so I can compare it to mine.

Looks like I updated my page and post after Will had posted his. Thanks for the diagram. I think that the 82 service manual I have is basically the same, so there we have it. I'll see what sense I can make of it and be back later. Thanks for the help. Nathan

Thanks for the pics. I can tell already that there are some difference between our cars, but your gives me a good reference. If Will is out there I await his expertise. Thanks. Nathan

Thanks for the help. The more I try to figure this car out the more I don't understand it. I found what seems to be a vacuum control modulator on the passenger side near the front. It is completely unhooked except for the the electrictrical lines. In the manuals I have access to it seems that the vacuum control modulator was only on the Turbo car, not the N/A. Makes me wonder if this car used to be a turbo and then was switched out. It has the standard ECU and all, but I don't see where this Vacuum Control Modulator comes in to play. Any ideas? Nathan

Thanks to those who helped with my previous posts. Now a new problem. I'm sorting out my vacuum lines and what the previous owner did to them. I understand the basic diagram under the hood of the car, but there are several other vacuum ports that are not addressed in any manuals I have or on the sticker under the hood. Could someone please send or post a few good pictures of a properly setup intake manifold including ALL of the vacuum ports and where their lines go, and if there are any T's or splits anywhere in the lines? Reading about it is one thing, but seeing it is another. I have a 1983 280zx, california model, and all i can find is vacuum charts for a 1982. And while I'm asking questions, does anyone know what the F.I.C.D. system is? I have a diagram of the engine and emissions control system from a 1982 service manual, but there is no explanation what the F.I.C.D. system is. What is worse is that I don't think I have it on my car. Thanks for your help. Nathan

Thanks for the directions. Basically I'm checking for continuity with my ohm meter. Nathan

I adjusted my TPS by taking it off, cracking open the case by drilling out the rivets, and so on. That TPS turned out to be flawed, so I got a new TPS. Does anyone out there know how I can adjust it properly without cracking open the case? I need to know when the idle contact opens and when the WOT contact closes. How can I do this? Thanks Nathan

I have been debugging my EFI, and everything else attached to the intake manifold of my 1983 280ZX. But I have run into a problem. I am looking for a chart that shows the vacuum line routing for a 1983 280ZX. I downloaded the EFI Bible from the boys up in Canada at Atlanticz Club, I downloaded the microfiche service manual for the 1982 280ZX, and I have the Haynes manual for the 1979-1983 Z. None of them, NONE, NOT ONE, shows the vacuum line routing for the 1983 car. I notices that in the Haynes manual there are significant differences between the 1980, 1981 and 1982 cars in how the route or control the vacuum. These differences seem to primarily include different TVV's, temp switches, etc. So, is the 1983 car the same as the 1982? Does anyone have a chart for the 1983 car?

Thanks for the pictures. That pretty much solves the problem What year car did the pictures come from? And to reply to a previous response, this is not the only stray wire. There are about 6 loose ends coming from the main wiring harness that dead end near the fuel rail. Go figure.

The wire actually comes out of the cylinder. So they are basically the same problem. It beats me where this thing is supposed to go. What also puzzles me is that in the service manual I have there is no indication that there is supposed to be a little cylinder there at all on my car.

I own a 1983 280ZX, non turbo. I removed my AFM and found a stray wire. I traced it back to a little cylinder mounted beside my ignition coil. The left side of the cylinder has a wire that enters the harness beside the ignition coil leads. The end of the wire is a female that needs a flat prong to connect. Any idea what the cylinder is and where the wire is supposed to attach?

I have to admit, the quality of the connection has been nagging at me. I have ordered some Deoxit to clean some other connections and I'll do the same to the injector connections. Does anyone know where to get new connectors for these if I would want to replace the connector?

The #3 injector will only work when you bang it, and then only for a second or two. It developed a miss that came and went, and after some checking, listening to the injectors, we found #3 to be faulty. I don't think it is the connector. If it is just a matter of unbolting things, then I can do that. If it requires some secret z-car trick that I don't know about then I'm doomed. Rebuilding sounds like an interesting alternative. Thanks for the advice.

I just spent a ton of money rebuilding my engine and now I find out that I have a dead fuel injector on my #3 cylinder. I can't afford to have the guy at the shop do the work, so I am going to do it myself. Are there any special tricks to removing the fuel rail? What are some of the typical problems associated with this job? I have a moderate amount of mechanical know-how, but I'm no expert. I heard someone say that it is easy to buckle the rings as they are installed. Is this true? What should I do to avoid any problems. And should I replace all the injectors at the same time? Again, money is an issue, but I need to car to run. Thanks for your help . . .

DatsunZsRule Thanks for the heads up. I have to admit that I am not loaded with cash, so any savings in labor is a plus. I like to do my work myself, but finding good parts has been a struggle. So, what kind of problems or special issues did you run into when you did your tie rods and ball joints? How hard was this job to do? I read somewhere that you need some pretty specialized tools, etc. etc. I have a Haynes manual, but it is pretty vague sometimes.

Just wondering how much you spend on the tie rods and ball joints. I have a 1983 280zx that needs the same work. I also need to replace all the other rubber parts in the front suspension. Any suggestions or things to watch out for? Did you buy the parts yourself? Or did you rely on your shop for all the parts?

As many of you know, the wiring connectors, those nice little boxes that have clipping tabs on the sides to keep them secure, are everywhere on these cars and they love to get corroded. I am systematically going through my 1983 280zx and am trying to solve some electrical problems. I suspect many of the connectors are either shot or corroded or both. How can I fix all these connectors? Replacing them all seems impossible. Can all these connectors be replaced? Does anyone out there specialize in these replacement parts? Or do I just need to hard wire all these connections? The connectors on my TPS are green, if anyone wanted to know.

Anyone out there know of a good shop in Phoenix that works on z cars? I need to do some clutch work, quick.

Yet another bit of information: I jacked up the car to inspect the slave cylinder, and I found what might be the problem. The lever coming out of the bell housing that the slave cylinder actuates is limp. It flops back and forth. There is no pressure in it at all. Clutches are not my area, so pardon my ignorance here. Could this mean that some type spring system inside the clutch or its parts is busted? I assume that the lever should have pressure coming back towards the slave cylinder???

Let me add a piece of info here. The pedal is dead on the floor. It can be brought back to the original position, but it is as limp as a fish when depressed. There is no pressure whatsoever. Also, I began having trouble with the throttle near the end of this misadventure. It felt fuel starved, or like the engine was bogging down, even at 2500 rpms. Could the clutchplates be stuck in some wierd position? How expensive is it to replace the clutch?

I just bought a 1982 280zx, and while bringing it home the clurch pedal fell to the floor. I went to step on it to downshift, and there was no pedal! It was no problem while on the highway, but what a mess once I got into traffic! It looks like there is a little leakage around the reservoir on the clutch master cylinder. What is the first thing that you would suspect as the problem? Is it a failed clutch master cylinder, or a failure in the actuating cylinder, or a problem with the clutch itself? I was able to drive it by starting it in first, letting the starter get the car rolling, and then timing my shifts with the RPM's. But I also noticed that the car was having problems I'm new to the z cars, so I need help!! Nathan