Exdamyankee

Mine's played it's share of Zeppelin for sure, but it prefers Jethro Tull :-)

Nothing wrong with the 2+2, I love my '74! * Remember those "useless" back seats work fine for kids (don't know where I'd mount the booster seat for my three year old in a couple *The stock weight penalty on a 2+2 vs. a coupe is less than 300#, and I bet I've already trimmed close to 100# off by removing the huge bumpers & their shock absorbers. The MSA FRP body kit is very light! I'll gladly pay a 200# penalty for the utility value of rear seats! *Appearance is subjective. I think the 2+2 is sharp looking as is, and think the MSA-Type 2 kit I've added makes for a very sleek looking GT. By February I will have lowered the car another inch with the Tokico spring/strut combo and migrated over to 16" Konig Rewinds. But here's what she looks like now:

Dude that is the best score I've seen in a long time for a deuce! Less than 10 cents a pound for a running '70--you stole that car! Looks like a great project. Good luck with it!

Ebay is like the world in microcosm. Some people just flat out suck on eBay, just like in the "real" world. Others are just plain good folks. I'd say that over nine years and a couple hundred transactions, I'm about 95% satisfied. If only my experience with "regular" merchants and buyers was as good! :eek:

It looks 100% better than the "taxi" bumpers, I agree! I think it's an OK compromise if you don't want to migrate to 240 bumps and don't like the MSA kit. I went with the MSA kit on my '74, and outside of the looks, which I like, the main benefit is the weight reduction. Those big bumpers and their accompanying front & rear shock absorbers weigh a lot more than the 240 bumpers or the 'glass body kit. But again, these pics looks a heck of a lot better than the stock configuration!

I bought my car on eBay and what I wound up driving home was pretty m uch exactly what the seller listed. No disappointments. I paid a bit more (maybe $4-500) for mine than a lot of other unrestored 2+2's, but the mileage (86K) was documented and the car was 99% rust free, and I've had it down to bare metal already and that claim was accurate. There's good and bad on eBay. Caveat Emptor is the name of the game. If you're reasonably educated you're not likely to be burned. If the seller won't communicate with you and you feel something is "funny," trust your instincts and take a pass.

Good point Nissanman, I missed the PSI thing completely. I try to run 100-125 when I use mine. I have a 40# Gravity type Tank blaster, Harborfreight special ;-)

What kind of sand are you using? When I firt got my blaster I got a bag of sand from Home Depot. Big Mistake. There's rocks in that stuff, or at least they might as well be. The grains are very non-uniform and the big ones (close enough to pebbles) clog a blaster like crazy. Anyway, the cure was getting a bag of proper fine blasting sand. Do the same and clogs ought not to be an issue. IF that is the issue, of course. What kind of blaster is it, siphon or tank type?

The stamp is real, I have one myself. It's misprinted, it should read 240Z. As for value, I doubt it's worth much, I picked imine up for a couple of bucks pre-hinged on a 4 x 6 commemorative card and framed it in my office.

Since I got the car out of the shop last week, complete with the new pipes, I know what you mean. The sound gets them first. Now, with my shiny new paint the car gets noticed a LOT. Before, with the drab, faded silver paint & stock exhaust, I got about as much notice as I did driving the Corolla... I have got compliments almost every day since I got the car out, be it a simple thumbs up (several), or getting chased down and gawked at by the ricer boyz in their Civic (Weds.), or having a MILF in the a brand new Mustang GT roll up and tell me how nice my car looked and how she had a '78 herself (yesterday). Life is good ;-)

Hi Carl. It was nice meeting you at Jim's the other day. And YOUR camera is what I consider a nice one ;-) I have something like that on my Xmas list... I have almost no exposure control. Like you said, lighting is tough around these parts, so I like the ability to control shutter speed & aperture. I also like a camera that can provide a decent flash fill. The flash on this thing is useless outside of 7 feet away. In a past life Carl, I actually was a pro at this(working in both 35mm & large format). Thanks for the kind words about the car. It's not a showpiece, it's a daily driver and has it's share of imperfections. You'll see, because I'm going to try to make it out there on Sunday. What time does it start?

Sorry for the crappy quality, but since my Toddler killed my good Canon I've had to borrow my daughter's camera. Here's a few pics for those who wanted to see how the paint came out: For the record the color is BMW Titanium Silver, with the Stripes in BMW Space Gray. I'll post better when I can get my hands on a decent camera again! Thanks for the kind words earlier. Looking forward to continuing the work!

Least expensive method would probaly have the rusted piece cut out and have a new piece of sheetmetal welded in. Not a big deal, I had several spots cut out and patched on my car recently. A shop might charge you $100-150 to weld in the new metal.

Yeah, she turns heads now (and no longer in disgust :-) The biggest personality change, aside from the appearance, is the pipes though. The car sounds a whole lot meaner than it is. No "ricey" fart-can noise though, it's a deep throaty rumble at idle that builds to a screaming howl at 6K. It's intoxicating! Almost as intoxicating as the fumes leaking into the cabin right now from the downpipe gasket, which I can't get to seal. I'm going to try doubling up the gasket this weekend. It's as tight as I can make it now and it still leaks.

Thanks guys. Colors are both 2007 BMW colors, the silver is Titanium Silver and the gray is Space Gray. The body kit is the MSA type 2.

I picked up the Z this evening from the shop. I gotta say, she looks positively awesome. It's not a 100 point job, but for what I paid ($3500 for a strip to bare metal, rust repair with welding, basecoat/clearcoat repaint with quality materials and mounting up my MSA Bodykit) I am more than happy. There are a couple of areas I wish were finished a little better than they are, but not for the difference in cost. The second lowest bid I got was almost $2000 higher than the shop I used. For $2K, I can live with a couple of minor imperfections--it's a driver, not a trailer queen. Driving home was my first real trip (25 miles) with the Twice Pipes installed. Let me tell you, those puppies are LOUD. Open pipes would be only marginally more antisocial than these. I like it :-) If the drone gets to be too much on my middle-aged ears I'll splice in a couple more glasspacks, but for now, I'll enjoy the roar, which is positively musical once she passes through 4000 RPM. I got three thumbs up on the ride home and had the "typical conversation" at the gas station while I tanked up with $3.23 premium (Your car looks awesome, what year is it? I had a '78, wish I never sold it...) Now the issues: The car was returned to me with non functional (actually non-flashing) turn signals. Also, the high-beam flash function seems to be non-functional, and I have no tag lights. All the lamps appear to be correctly plugged in and they didn't pull down the column for anything. Rather than have them tear into it I figured I'd take a crack at it myself. Any ideas? I will post more pictures tomorrow. No light by the time I picked it up tonight. Here's one teaser:

No need for a "temporary" primer. If it were easy to remove, it would be a lousy protectant for the metal. Just spray it now with a decent automotive primer now and just scuff it up when you are ready to paint next season. You can always prime & paint over the old primer. Are you going down to bare metal? If so, use an "etching primer" that bonds to the steel. Then spray a regualr automotive primer over that. If you are not going to metal, you can skip the etching primer.

L-series internals are tough, unless I knew for sure i had a rod knock I wouldn't be so anxious to trash the block. The head looks like toast--too much trouble to fix, and good used cylinder heads are reasonably cheap enough. It looks to me as if you've had a coolant leak there for a good long time, all that corrosion around the #1 exhaust port didn't just happen overnight. Check the bearings. If they're still good slap a used head on it, flush the cooling system, replace your gaskets, and motor on!

No, not in the Z. But have you ever tried a TR6? With the top UP? When you're 6'2"? A Karmann Ghia is a bedroom by comparison! Unfortunately at 46 my body can not get into the same postions as it could at 19. Not without breaking something, at least...

My youngest just turned three on 10/24. Here he is inspecting the Z (almost ready for paint), and the second pic is stuffing himself with B-day cake: .

EVN WURS, WTF S THS SHT ABT?? I feel your pain, friend. I feel sorry for those folks out there who refuse to use or learn proper English. They will find so many doors closed to them in this society. Speaking of poor English, if you want to read something truly FUNNY, read the "Chinglish" manuals that come with some Far Eastern imported electronics & toys. If I remember to bring it home from work, I have an instruction sheet for an electric pedometer that will make you howl with laughter! For more silliness, visit www.engrish.com

Very nice!