Exdamyankee

I believe standard for that car was the R180, 3.36 ratio if nobody changed it out along the way.

No doubt, with a "901" code she came from the factory all silver :-)

It really sounds like there is nothing seriously wrong with this car. Clutch hydraulics fail, that's a given. We expect this sort of thing, along with electricals failing due to corroded connectors, brake cylinders leaking from age and pitting, and so on. The key to making this kind of car liveable as a daily or somewhat regular driver is one of two things: 1) Bags full of money or 2) A willingness to get dirty and replace things yourself when they fail If you lack the former, or a willingness to spend it on the car, you'll need to learn the latter. For example, the clutch master and slave can be done in a couple of hours for under $150. A good source for parts is Courtesy Nissan, see the clutch parts page here: http://www.courtesyparts.com/s30_clutch.html. With a service manual it is not too difficult at all. Even without one, it's not too tough a job for a novice. I'm no professional mechanic, I just learned by doing over the years :-) Just my 2c worth. You have a great car there! I hope you keep it and drive her as she was meant to be driven.

I can't count how many cops over the years I've left scratching their heads after they've spotted me and pulled in behind me to pace--as I gently ease up on the handbrake and scrub off 15 mph or so. Speaking of brakelights, I've also found that the best way to put some space between yourself and a tailgater is to hold the brake pedal down just enough to light off the brake lights as you lean into the accelerator. Works every time!

I just picked up a set of these myself and will be mounting them up when my car comes out of paint. I've had bullet mirrors on most of my sportscars over the years, including my first car (Triumph TR6) and I've always loved them. Looks good on yours!

The flattops were a poor attempt to meet emissions requirements until the Fuel Injection system was ready for market. If you want a museum piece, keep the flattops on the car. If you want to drive it and enjoy it, swap them out for a fresh set of round-tops and put the flatties away where they will stay in #1 condition. Go with the roundtops if you are desmogging the car. If you want to do it right, go to www.ZTherapy.com and look at their roller-bearing shaft rebuilt roundtops. Pricey, but a permanent solution to the carb problem. BTW, you'll also need wide spacers for the round-tops if you swap, and longer manifold studs.

Really nice engine (for a Healey). I can't see putting a low-tech pushrod motor in a Z though, not for 300HP. A pushrod SBC, sure. Even a 3.8 Buick V6, though nowhere near as sexy as the V8 or this aluminum motor, but it's cheaper than dirt, fairly lightweight, and you can coax a tremendous amount of power out of it with readily available performance parts. Otherwise, I'll keep my OHC L-series. For the money this thing would cost, you could have a hell of a Z-Motor built (think Rebello, etc.).

I'll go along with the general consensus and say fuel problem. Your inline electric pump may be weak or failing. If you can beg or borrow a fuel pressure gauge, hook it up and see what you're getting for pressure. . I had the same symptoms but in my case it was rust particles from the old tank clogging up the fuel filters & lines. With a re-done tank this shouldn't be an issue, but I'd replace the fuel filters anyway.

Pull your plugs first and tell us what they look like. If they're black & sooty you're running too rich and that will contribute to a run-on problem. If you do have a carbon buildup problem you might try a can of Seafoam ($6 at Discount A.P. or A-Zone). Cleans the crap out of the combustion chambers pretty well. Worked really well for me. If you decide to do this follow the directions carefully or risk hydro-locking the motor (stuff goes in through the intake).

A bit too far gone for me. I 've got to admit though, I've seen far worse. A lot of that car is probably held together by the bondo and the 6 previous paintjobs. In it's present condition it's an organ donor, IMO.

I'll throw in here too. Tire Rack has been great to me, I've bought four sets from them so far. They will recommend a local installer for you, call them in advance and make sure they won't charge you a ridiculous amount to mount & balance (the guy we use is $10 a tire). I'm very happy with the service and the tires I've bought.