GreenZZZ

More/better photos if you are still chatting with the owner. I thinking anyone on this board would want high rez images and the usual money shots (frame rails, doglegs, batter tray, fuel hatch...) 300x225 pixel images make it look like a 104K mile car and leave a horrible first impression.

Looks very red for a guy named Blue! Very nice work! I went with LizardSkin. No idea which is better. I have some snaps of the work here... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42523-Lizard-Skin-Products

I've read about the microspheres as a good and inexpensive heat coating. I didn't use it for two reasons; I wanted sound deadener and heat shield and since I'm spending a bunch on a restoration, I didn't want to mess up a base coat and have it delaminate an expensive topcoat. I spent about the same amount of money on a gallon of Glasurit paint as I did on 4 gallons of LizardSkin with an application gun and I'm going to end up with 2 1/2 gallons of color sprayed when all is said and done! The expression "Pony'd Up" has been used about this job... As has "full retard"... :stupid: The LizardSkin is better with a topcoat so we shot GlamourClear on it as an an experiment and I really like the look. It went from a mid gray to a dark gray/black and shiny. When we shot the interior with color we were using the Glasurit paint and the LizardSkin took a crazy amount of paint before the color took hold. Would have been way cheaper to put a sealer coating between the LizardSkin and the color paint I think. Here are some snaps. Hit the link for larger rez. Masking and roughing up the POR basecoat... POR roughed and masked LizardSkin in interior LizardSkin on floorboards LizardSkin on rear deck Here is the LizardSkin topcoated top and bottom... Interior color GlamourClear clearcoat on LizardSkin, whacky....

S2 in 1972 was the first 113 green (love that color)... But you are right, way too high. 54K miles, I'd say 8K if battery, frame rails, dog legs and gas hatch rust isn't there. Battery pulled out might mean no rust underneath...

This is what I ended up doing in my frame rails throughout the car. Should have done it before the LizardSkin went on...

The insulators anywhere close to the exhaust system crumbled to pieces when I dismantled the car in '09. Texas is just too damn hot. The car had very little rust, but all the rubber was a write off. The insulators from Dave from cars up in the northwest were in excellent shape. The brake/fuel lines were in such good shape I didn't replace them. Good to know there are replacements available. Carl, did you eliminate the vapor return line in your car?

It took a long time to get here, but got the lines installed. I took the exterior of the lines down to bare metal and coated with Silver POR-15. Same with the clips. I black lacquered the heads of the 4mm bolts. I could have plated the parts, but I would have had to bend them up quite a bit to fit into the plating dip tanks, so instead I went with POR. The Silver POR isn't the greatest color, but is a huge improvement cosmetically from what the lines looked before paint. Thanks so much Dave for the spare insulators! Pic1 Pic2 Pic3

I wouldn't rule out ignition problems yet, especially if the fuel pressure isn't wandering around. The 240 distributors had shaft bearings fail quite a bit. Not sure about your ZX dizzy. A bad electrical connection, coil, ignition wires, plugs, dizzy bearing problem could take your top end out. I'd do a compression test as well just in case something got missed during your engine rebuild. Improperly installed timing chain or broken chain tensioner will also do that to you. Hopefully you put in a new chain during your rebuild.

It would probably go down like the scene in "Casino" where instead of Joe Pesci using a ball point pen, it would be one of those chrome strips... blood everywhere...