GreenZZZ
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Everything posted by GreenZZZ
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I cut something 1.5 to 2.0 mm out of the fender lip instead of rolling them. With some camber, 0.5 mm 1.0 mm will go a long way! -
Got the heater parts all POR'd without cementing in the flaps. I posted photos in a heater box thread. The gas tank came out great, but I didn't bother popping the rubber off. :stupid: All the lines felt real solid. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=33860
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BJHines hasn't posted in a few years, so this will probably go unanswered, (this is a very old thread), but having more air in the **** pit with the Honda blower upgrade can't be a bad thing. Nascar guys have a box of ice and run the air to their helmets through it. The guy who basted my shell does the same thing with his respirator. Creature comforts, and the weight associated with it, can get you better performance I imagine. Lee
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POR'd the gas tank. Looks great inside and out! -
Variation of this inspiring thread... Painted with POR. For padding, I used black headliner material, some thick closed cell foam for the actuator arm seal, and regular 1 1/4 inch AC gasket foam. Didn't use vinyl like a should have, but love the results. Took me almost a whole day to cut and glue the pads into place. I used 3M Hi-Tack 76 spray adhesive so I blew a bunch of time masking glue areas. A good brush on adhesive would have been a better choice. The heater core in the photo is total B.S. It's too wide making the fit a stretch (literally) and tall preventing the flap actuator from moving. Fortunately my stock core was rebuildable as it didn't have much rust. Click the link for higher res shots. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=33852&ppuser=14083 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=33851&ppuser=14083
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The other cliche is spraying water in the carbs to steam clean the cylinders...
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Closeup of the internal pad work of heater box -
POR and spent a long time making sealing pads for the heater system. The aftermarket heater core is crap, stock one at radiator shop. -
Yesterday I drove up to Courtesy to pick up my new fender :classic: and also picked up the scuff plates and other misc stuff.
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FYI - $10.00 a side at Nissan! http://www.courtesyparts.com/skuff-plate-1970-1973-240z-260z-280z-p-569011.html?cPath=7724_7760&
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I found this shop in my home town. http://www.cmtfinishing.com/zinc.htm I'm thinking about using them with the yellow zinc process and then topping with clear POR since POR is fine with temps up to 600 degree F. Wha-da-ya-think?
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Attacking the Rust monster in the Heater and Gas Tank. Defended with POR-15 too! http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=33831 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=33830
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I shouldn't comment but I will... Part number 8 "Manifold heat control thermostat" on the back of the carb is the hot water temp cutoff thermostat to prevent the carb from overheating with hot coolant. I tested mine 10 years ago on the stove in hot water. Worked great. The systems is on and useful for about 1 minute after the motor is on until the motor is warm at which point the system closes up. The dyno observation is confusing to me. Either the manifold thermostat was stuck open, not there, or there was some benefit to the thermal mass/convection of the water being in the carb to regulate a temp spike. Not sure... Hot climate Z folk which have very short warm up periods typically kill the system. Mine isn't going back in when I get the car up and running next year... :disappoin
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Of all the craziness which is the ROT Rally, this floored me... -
Blasted the heater to remove old paint and surface rust -
Sanded the gas tank as the paint was bad, had overspray and it had minor surface rust. I let it air out for 8 months before putting a grinder on it. Inside of it looks fantastic! -
To get curve back to rear panel which has the middle part of the tabco repair panel, an angle bracket was added. Back panel is SOLID! -
Rear panel repair getting smoothed out. A small love tap in the right rear was welded up and ground smooth. -
Car had 300K miles and 4 paint jobs so filling was required to get the lines back. The quarters were probably sanded each paint job... -
Orange with White! Nice. Hopefully its been in AZ its whole life so the rust monster didn't get to it.
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Takes a while to figure out the differences in each community like it takes trying to figure out the difference in Tea Party vs Republicans or Blue Dog's vs Democrats. The orginal community was IZCC (internet Z car club) at zhome.com and goes way back (I'm IZCC #78). IZCC is still there and a good hunk of those guys are on ClassicZCars. If you read all the boards and end up hooked on Z's, you'll end up on one of the boards. I had an '79 Rx7. Had 300K miles and 4 motors before I sold it. Loved that car...
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Another good tank ventilation reference. This one has parts to order if you don't order Nissan parts and want to sleeve the lines for the bends instead of Dave/Dogma420's copper 180 degree elbow method... http://www.jrdemers.com/280ZX/tankvents/tankvents.html
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I was expecting much more rust for a shell that has >300K miles on it. Having seen posts on these boards for so long, I couldn't imagine a Z which was driven hard being in this good of shape. 34 years of its life were in Houston/Austin and 5 years in San Jose so I guess its "location location location"... Lesson is, good shells do exist! I didn't know mine was one of them!
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A guy who lives between Austin and San Antonio has a sweet mobile rig... Took him 5 hours of "trigger time" on the blaster which was about 8 hours including panels/fenders/hood. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=33694 The soda made mince meat of the rust proofing! He had more trouble with the Nissan paint. "American paint comes off easy..."
