GreenZZZ

That bracket is heavy!! I don't think your back panel has metal fatigue like mine did making me think that the PO of my car actually used the tow hitch a lot. :paranoid: I have the car on a rotisserie and besides the holes, panel fatigue, and some bends in the spare tire well, no other damage and its all fixed. You have that right, but I'd add the left turn signal gasket and the rubber around the gas vent through holes on the rear deck...

My car is really high mileage and all the tumblers were shot. You could remove the key from the ignition while the car was running like yours. I bought the complete lock set way back in the day when MSA had them and the replacement holds the keys in the lock until you stop the car. Prior to replacing the locks, every lock on the car (including the glove box) had a crazy trick to get the lock to work rendering the car useless to anyone but me.

From what I see, you have a fantastic ride. Easy to paint the steering wheel and add the leather shifter cover. Those Enkei's look sweet, but a 16" does make the car handle better. Really like to see the clean line from the front tire down the door to the rear tire that your car has. I love my dash cap! I can go either way on the side stripe.

Check it! http://www.courtesyparts.com/rear-upper-strut-plate-1970-1975-240z-260z-280z-p-569015.html?cPath=7724_7762&

Holy crap! Your car has the same tow hookup bracket on it that mine had. I just had it all patched up. Made a real mess the the back of my car. First shot is with the metal fatigue from the tow hitch, 2nd is the replacement steel.

Same thread! (but on this site)... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=325079&postcount=6

After reading this thread a few years back, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25012, I assumed the amount of steal on the steering shafts and the undersized U-Joints were a problem in racing. If Jon isn't seeing a problem, no one probably is! I'm no racer... Thanks for digging those links up Jon, great read (as usual!).

Odd thing is, with warm temperatures here, there was no hurry! All it does is add air around the throttle valve. Its the thing that holds your idle up for a minute or so when the engine and air temp is cold. A wire heats up a bi-metal strip to close it off almost right away. You'll want it when we get a good cold front like the big one that hit in January...

No vacuum assist on the brakes and it looks to be a stock steering column. Goes fast but don't try to turn it or stop it??

This looks pretty good (from the primadonna Z thread)...

Those radiators look sweet. I'd put in a new water pump as the shafts do break taking out the radiator at the same time.

Good plan! 260 daily... My car has over 300K miles (same color as yours) and its had 4 cylinder heads on it and probably 8 cylinder head gaskets. Only needed to rebuild the bottom end of the motor after I spun a rod bearing at the track and that was recent. The piston walls still had cross hatches on it and the pistons looked good so I didn't even bore out the motor. Guess my point is you probably won't need to jump into the block. I'd replace the bushings in the transmission mount and the engine/tranny/diff mounts if they look suspect. Put a pry bar on them and see if they are cracked in any way.

Snapshot-ing the images from http://www.frpautomotive.com/frp_240z_shells_clubs.html since the eBay stuff goes away.

I think, in general, this would be thought of as a good thing on HybridZ. It could make an very interesting track car!

Question for ya blakt out: Did you strip/chip off the stock rust proofing on the bottom of the car or RhinoLine on top of the stock rust proofing after cleaning it? My car goes on the rotisserie today... need to get the plan together...

Those Bosch L-JetTronic parts are on lots of German cars in the same era. Easy to find in the pick-n-pull...

Both sides straightened out with the fenders and hood for $1200. You might be able to find less expensive body guy in Odessa than Austin. The hood and left fender was replaced in the 80's, but was bent to fit the nose which was bent downward, so fixing those parts was dealt with at the same time. Looking at my car and yours, the hit on my car was a bit diagonal and the energy went down the bumper to the right side and that is probably why the energy didn't go down the frame rail. I bet yours was it more front to back and that is why it got your frame rail behind the radiator.

Good point. I need to stop posting to the boards and get out in the garage and do that part of the project!

Mine just got straightened out. A pickup backed into the front left in a parking lot in the '80s as well. On mine, the damage was in front of the radiator plate and didn't drive into the frame rail. Its all fixed now

Those's are some smokin' hot carbs!

Looks fantastic! Love the white with blue.

And you wrote docs too! Not sure if this is the latest docs. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19934 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20016

Did a bit of googling... This was the best discussion I found http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=59355

These are the two I use... http://www.vintageconnections.com/ http://www.mouser.com/

The bushings went in with a press, but I couldn't find anyone with the tool to flare the last 3/8" once pressed, so I followed ZCurves advice and slotted/whacked the collar to flare the end down. Then I sanded it with a dremmel. Paint is next. Nissan part bought from Motorsport (MSA/ZCarParts). There is another thread about gear whine/noise from using urethane bushings so I decided to go stock. Unlike the control arm bushings, the collar needs to be flared which is what I wanted to figure out here. The urethane bushings are real easy to install!