GreenZZZ

This is what I ended up with... The bushing has different resistance to motion depending on the voids. I ended up randomly putting them in but with the stiffer resistance left/right and the weaker resistance front back which is opposite from the original (obliterated) bushings. I imagine anything is better than what was there which was almost no resistance... http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=33404

Here is my Tabco panel install on the right side. The Tabco's are less "crisp" on the folds (more rounded) and are pretty easy to distinguish from an original unless you do some hefty work on them. I was going to just do the doglegs but ended up having to do both wheel arches as there was lots and lots of bondo and some rust from behind spots... My car has 300K+ miles on it so my goal is "nice" instead of perfect. I'd say the way Guy is doing his cars (all datsun panels) is the way to go if you can. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=33405 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=33406 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=33407

These steering wheels are wood looking plastic right? I over sanded one and it turned white pretty quick. If its plastic, why furniture oils instead of straight up urethane or epoxy clear coat?

Like Jeff G 78, I had to trim 1mm from my rear fenders 12 o'clock to 2 o'clock on the left rear and 10 o'clock to 12 o'clock on the right. The rub points on the fenders are toward the back part of the rear fenders and it is barely touching so just a bit needs trimming.

Some other odd source

Here is a photo of my hacking my way through the job. I went too far on two spot welds. The bit is the harbor freight spot weld removal bit. Dave Zs-ondabrain has a nice post somewhere on using the bit to pop off a bent up roof. Wish I read that prior to doing my battery tray.. :stupid: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=32231&ppuser=14083 I missed one spot weld and ended up ripping a piece of sheet metal, so these photos show you what can go wrong. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=32234&ppuser=14083

The nose looks bashed in.

Might want to push in new bushings while you have it out. I put in the Suspension Techniques Urethane bushings. Made a huge difference on my car.

Looks like other folks like them from the following thread. The Urethane boots are really good advice... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36768

I'd be comfortable with a Beck Arnley parts and they sell a ball joint (but I haven't used one)... http://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-101-1089-Ball-Joint/dp/B000CB4VZM/ref=au_pf_ss_1?ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&carId=001 Some aftermarket ball joints, the fit is poor and the dust covers melt for some odd reason. I think most of us buy the Nissan microfilm on CD from Courtesy Nissan and spend a 1/2 a day or so making a part list and figuring out where to buy them across Motorsport (aka ZCarParts), Black Dragon, Courtesy, and local part shops. For instance, I like the Autozone solid UJoints for $15 over the $65.00 greasable Spicers from Motorsport. You'll find lots of discussions if you search the list.

Yeah, I had it mixed up. You can buy both together (8+9+11) but you probably won't need the inners (8/9) if dirt didn't work its way into the joint. The inners are pretty beefy.

Definitely replace 20. Motorsport has a nice aftermarket part which is inexpensive. If you need inner and outer tie rods (8 and 9) you can buy both at once which is the un-numbered part on the left. If the boot (aka bellows, 20) are okay, usually the inner tie rods are okay so you'll only need the outer tie rods. Replace the boot anyway. My car had 300K miles and I had to replace the pinion! Looking at your car, which was similar to mine, you will need to replace every piece of rubber at some point (motor mounts, tranny bushings, differential mount...)

Motorsport Auto is pretty good http://www.zcarparts.com/ Consider replacing your tension rod bushings, control arm bushings, and sway bar bushings while you are in there. I like stock rubber, some like urethane which is harder/racier... Check for rust around the tension rod mount. Have that welded up if there is a problem. Lots of discussions on this board on these parts if you search for it.

Pivots at the bottom are ball joints. You need new ones and outer tie rods, possibly inner and outer tie rods. Replace the steering rack bellows (rubber covers) over the outer tie rods and regrease them. If there is any play, replace them. I'd replace the steering rack bushings while you are at it.

I dropped the Mallory Optical Distributer/Coil/Ballast in, added some beefy ground wires, set the timing and it was plug-n-play... http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=24284&ppuser=14083

ZONC is a pretty busy club http://www.zonc.org/

This is what happens when you sand with too much elbow greese and not enough water... http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=33106&ppuser=14083

What color is she gonna end up?

Check your distributor. Pull it out and see if the bottom or top of the shaft is wobbly/loose. Check the springs and points. The bushing in the distrubutor wears out just like the throttle bushings in the carb.

Would make a nice pair for Diseazd's green meany... :laugh: