GreenZZZ

I had a loose stub axle so I took both sides out. Found two different axles in the car! The one on the left is stamped "J15" and has the backing plate for the lugs while the one on the right is stamped "F15" and has no backing plate. The one on the left had an unpeened nut at about 40 ft lbs of torque. The one on the right was the normal bear to loosen up after dremel-ing out the peened portion of the nut. The one on the right almost has too little rust... It gets worse, the one on the left had the threads shaved! There was no apparent use of lock-tight on the retaining nut. The spline count is the same on both axles as the flange which hooks to the half shaft are interchangeable. I have bigger images on my server http://www.lee-thompson.com/Z/StubAxle/ but the bandwidth is slowww.. I have 200K, 2M and 8M versions of the images. Two questions. Is the shaved thread axle useable with locktight on the retaining nut? Where did these axles come from as they are differnt? 260Z??? Its been reported that the spline count is different for 280Z stub axles. Thanks in advance for your advice

I'd say the consensus Classic Z Car Club opinion of what "completely restored" means and what Datsun Parts LLC considers the term to mean are separated by the vastness of space and time to the point where if the two were ever to collide, the whole universe would be destroyed.

Weird seeing 240Z style steal wheels on a 280Z. Check the battery tray, rear hatch, floors, and rocker panels dog legs for rust. Probably has some (most do).

All engines must be installed by an A.S.E. certified mechanic or other licensed professional shop for warranty to be valid. :sick:

After that month of 105 we had in Austin in summer, I've been obsessing about the cooling system. Figure the Phoenix area Z's have figured this out years ago. Lots-o-Z's in Arizona.

Replace the thick felt padding under the transmission tunnel vinyl. When you do the seats, replace all the upholstery stuffing as well.

Good reason for the diff mount upgrade... Shows how much the diff moves under load. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=261934&postcount=13

Did you notice the plating site on nulltime.com is a 240Z guy! http://www.nulltime.com/zincplating/parts/datsun_240-z_parts.html Is he on classicZcars? Whois says its Sean Collins from Idaho. Sean, if your listening, thanks for taking all the time to document the setup!!

Is the ball joint dust boot failure common? Mine more or less melted (turned into sludge) in a few years on only one thousand miles. Very disappointing.

Good vid on polishing. I would love to get Z's and 260zCaliCar's opinion on the technique. I like the sanding buff this guy uses instead of hand sanding for instance.

Found a great thread on this http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35873

Part 56 is what you need to fix/replace

2nd the fuel pump check. Also check the barrel gas filters at the inputs to the carb float (part 50)

The less obvious stuff: Vacuum leak in the manifold, carb throttle bushing or could even be the brake booster... Distributor bearing/bushing shot

I have a Chevy truck for said disposal technique... 1:4. Considering your inspection as residue free as you state, I'd burn it! I've never done it on gas more the 1.5 years old though.

My '72's booster failed in January. Started as hard pedal feel followed by reduced breaking and engine RPM rev-ing upward and downward (stalling) when braking. The part lasted 37 years! It was due...