GreenZZZ

Same for my Feb '72

Low rez Craig's list photos really wizz me off. Could be a real nice car.

Funny, my oven is the same, but a double oven. I had to rebuild the circuit boards for the oven twice! Once time it was dried out capacitors, the other time it was cracked solder joints near the transformer. Stunning results on the powder coating!

This bolt, how much torque?

I'd wire in the daytime running lights. The 113 green color is invisible with Texas foliage in the background so I always run with headlights on for that reason.

You put the 113 green on with a bunch of clear coat and then see it in the sun light... its pretty stunning

Anyone know how much torque to put on the bolt that goes through the body which is used to mount up the mustache bar. Couldn't find the spec listed in the manual. I put 100 ft/lbs on it with some medium (blue) lock-tight. If it loosens up, you need to tear out the rear wheel vinyl. Yuck!

Here is what stock rear springs look like Click here for hi rez

Thanks for checking Chase! Between your car and Dan's (240dkw) photo a few pages back, mine is definitely overspray from a US paint gun, not Japan.

Can someone check their front lower radiator crossmember (where the horn bolts up) and see if that was blacked out or not. I had a bunch of overspray on mine in addition to the radiator blackout. Trying to figure out if the overspray was factory or one of the many crappy paint jobs on the car.

Holy crap! Reading about the "Blacked Out Section" Carl and Motorman7 were talking about just made me realize I have more paint to do. I verified on some old photos that mine originally had this paint as well, though most of it had worn away. Guess I should get the spot behind the rear window underneath the Z emblem at the same time... Any other blacked out sections?

From top to bottom, steel, rubber, mustache bar, rubber, steel. Easy easy.

Z mid to rear clunks are often hard to trace and often multi-symptomatic (requiring a few U-Joints, Bushings, bearings, Mounts, bolt tightening). Does the problem happen on shifting, braking, throttling, hitting road bumps, when playing Parliament Funkadelic.... For local support, check out http://czot.org. Austin Z-Clinic is about an 1.5 hours away.

I have stock 240Z half shafts on a R200 3.9 ratio diff so I figure the inner flange is the same. CZCC and HybridZCC'ers have put 280 stub axles into 240 struts so my guess is "yes". BTW - my first regrease and reseal of my half shafts was at 300K miles. Only noted some very mild wear.

Just noticed those "Chrome plated brass square head plug" parts. Those would look pretty good on the diff and transmission.

I order these and some "countersunk" allen hex key parts to plug the carb heater http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KLMJYM/ref=oh_o01_s00_i01_details As you can see, the supply is pretty variable off amazon. These look like good suppliers of this kind of thing. Make sure its BSPT (tapered) instead of BSPP (parallel). I'm pretty sure its all tapered threads. I think the countersunk would look a bit better, is cheaper, but probably harder to de-install w/o thread lube or teflon. Think brass would be better than steel. http://www.amazon.com/IMPERIAL-96132-BSPT-STEEL-THREAD/dp/B001DENRKM/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1322409756&sr=8-7 http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/9030TCSP_BSPT_Countersunk_Hex_Plug_p/9030tcsp.htm http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/9030T_British_Pipe_BSPT_Hex_Head_Plug_p/9030t.htm http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/catalogPageView.shtml?Catalog=main&CatPage=4017 (see bottom left corner, brass!)

Funny, got mine out on Thanksgiving day!

Mine had a tough as nails red/rust colored primer. The undercoating underneath and layers of green paint on top came off like butter under a soda blaster. The primer took some time under the gun of the soda blast. Mine is a '72 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=33694&title=soda-blasted-21&cat=500 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=33710&title=soda-blasted-21&cat=500

Nothing like a new paint grin

I've owned two '72 Z's and both had a similar mud sprayed on them, about 3/16". I always thought it was factory since it was under the brake lines and other hard to reach spots which would have required a total disassembly. Another Series I, Series II difference?

I went up into my attic and pulled out all the interior pieces I've been collecting for a decade. I have every butterscotch part except for the door panels. I actually have the butterscotch dogleg panels with the chrome strip for in front of the rear tires... Cool! I hope to take my car to the upholstery shop Friday or Monday to get the diamond and headliner glued into my car. The plastic panels in the rear and the roof liner vinyl are definitely a smudge browner than the seats and transmission diamond vinyl which are more orange-ish (in comparison). I was over by the paint store this AM and ordered a pint of custom vinyl paint. The butterscotch seat and diamond vinyl color looks to be between two orange-ish color swatches he had and shouldn't be to hard to match up so I'm going to spray that on a set of black door panels... Bottom line is my parts collection colors do not match up perfectly. The paint I'm mixing up will likely be more orange than Daniel's panel spray. My memory of these colors from the 70's was the colors didn't matched up back then either. I checked my original parts which I still have from the tear down and they show the darker/lighter color variance on the surfaces which didn't appear faded (under the center console, under the roof line QuickEdge edge trim... So, even though I'll have paint, I'm not going to respray my new plastic panels. I'm just going to spray the black door panels and try to keep somewhat sane about this.

To prove your point in detail... Here is Mally002's old car (he's now in a white/blue Z) First picture is likely from Mally002's camera in sunlight, 2nd is from seller of it on ebay, probably with a flash indoors. Same car...

Seems like the SEM paints would need more red to match your paint, so SEM is way off. If I'm reading this right, left you painted, right is a 40 year old original. Wow that is an amazing match! The marketing photos from the 70's always look lighter. My original parts look about like what you have. Wouldn't mind them being lighter, freaky 70's colors. Some examples, first is from bringatrailer.com and the others are from zclub.net showing a car getting redone. I think in general the vinyl gets lighter and the plastic gets darker? What is really interesting is the door panel and seat middle sections are different vinyl with coarse texture which fades differently. You can go crazy with this stuff. Some say that has already happened

Found 2 apps, "Japan Goggles" and "Lost in Japan". Both had horrible reviews. Is there another one that is decent?

Think your springs and shocks are gone. The dogleg rusts from the inside out so a small hole means the panel needs to be replaced.