GreenZZZ

More likely the imbalance is more than the zerk fittitngs. I'd guess that the front yolk is installed on the rear shaft yolk or one of the yolks is 180 degress out of phase. Easiest fix is take it to a driveline shop and have the shaft rebalanced. Also check your diff mount and the mustache bar bushings as well as those bushings on the back of the transmission. My 240z had shot tranny bushings which settled things down a bunch after replacement.

When I want to post on our site, I tend to find old threads and post there instead of starting a new one. I think it makes the site more useable from search engines and definitely helps when you are out in the garage doing a job reading one thread instead of 30 when your fingers are all dirty...

They weren't. The are just hanging there moved forward about 6 inches. You can kind of tell from the shots from the rear. There is a 3/8" air gap between the fender and the headlight bucket as well so all should assemble w/o paint seems.

Upper and lower are different. Upper has a larger hole as the mounting bolt tapers inside the mustache bushing.

Our Z Car Creations stainless bolts folk have a writeup on modifying a 280Z thermostat housing for this mod. Z Car Creations Fan Install Instructions

Once the part is lipped over like yours, its easy to finish it off

Benefits of the Urethane is its much easier to install. Draw back is many have complained of a loud diff gear whine entering the car. I'm going with stock bushings and an RT diff mount for a smooth ride... Motorsport has the upper 240Z and lower 280Z bushings... http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SDC03D

Kevin LeBlanc at the Austin Z-Clinic bought one too. I'm redoing the ones I hacked up right now. The lower donut bushing below the flared bushing is no longer available. I'm going with a 280Z lower donut (I have an R200 which is probably the correct part anyway)...

What was the timing cover painted out of the factory? The L28's I think were the Nissan turquoise, same as the block as the cover on my L24 was from an L28 and it still has a few paint flakes of the turquoise/gray paint. What about the '72 L24's?

Thanks Dave and Jeff. I was seriously thinking about flying up to Washing to buy the Green Bean Dave! Starting to see more avocado-ish color cars. Chip Foose has a paint code that is close and Hyundai has a green which is a bit lighter.

This is what it looks like after the clear coat and before buffing. The car was sealed, painted green, and clear coated in about 10 hours on Saturday. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=36297 http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=36295&title=glamourclear-on-113-avocado-green&cat=503

I'm not seeing it http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.286616268026327.73918.265310403490247&type=3

Finally got to the fun part. Rick on the spray trigger. Click link for higher rez. This is the first coat going on. Spraying the top Looks green now First coat done

Very timely advice Lone Blue Man. Will do!

I think were at about the same spot in our restoration. I went with LizardSkin inside the doors sprayed extra thick.