yor5150

I couldn't agree more with it being a great car for someone who wants a Z to drive. It doesn't have a lot of get up and go but could probably be a daily driver as is. If I were to keep it I'd replace the flat tops with dome tops and the 4 speed with a 5 speed since I already have them laying around. The paint is fair and there are a couple of small dings on the passenger door.

If it was a 240 in the same condition than I would be pretty confident that it would bring more than $3,250 on eBay but I don't know if 260's are as sought after. I'm not really trying to get the second owner to come down from his 3250 . The ad did say OBO but he wasn't ready to go with the OBO yet. He wants to use the money have an old Chevy he recently picked up painted.

Thanks for the comments. I believe the car to be worth the asking price. I should have clarified that right now is not a good time to take on another Z for me for several reasons. I'd pay a price with the girlfriend since we need new carpeting and furniture AND I already have the '73 240Z that is taking a lot of time, money and garage space. What I've been keeping an eye out for is a good rolling chassis as I have the L24 engine, 5 speed tranny and an R180 diff from my '73. I had planned on spending no more than a grand for the shell. This will be my step-son's first car. It will be a while before he gets his license so we have time to work on it as time and money permit. If I had the money and the space for the 260 I'd buy and keep it. Since I don't have either I thought it might be an opportunity to make a few bucks to put back into my '73.

I found a 260Z for $3250. It has less than 80k original miles on it. The guy says he bought it from the original owner who was female. (I only say that because they tend not to be as hard on cars). I looked it over and it looks like a stock 30 year old Z that was reasonably taken care of. It has the original flat top carbs, all smog equipment and working AC. In fact the only non original items I could find were the wheels and the stereo. What little rust there was appeared to be surface rust. I'll post a couple of pics from the advertisement when I get home from work. The tach is intermittent and the clock doesn't work (no surprise there). I wanted to get some feedback on other members opinions as to the cars worth. I'm having a hard time getting the guy to budge from the asking price of $3,250. He says thats what he paid for it a year ago. On the one hand this is a great shell to start with but on the other hand since it's original and unmolested I thought about flipping it on eBay. Comments are welcome. Thanks.

So far no major blunders but if I have a brain-fart I'll freely admit it since you were brave enough to admit yours. Look at the bright side, you probably won't have to do any of that stuff again for as long as you own the car!

Makes sense to me. Thanks for responding.

I don't know how much they cost at the dealer. I purchased mine on eBay but don't remember how much I paid. Do a search for it on eBay Motors. For example, there is item # 220159266207 with a starting bid of $30 or Item number: 220160709916 with a "Buy It Now" price of $38.99. Both come with the firewall grommets. MSA also has them and less expensive as the current eBay listings... http://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT Do a search for "heater hose". Code: 16-7621 Price:$8.57 This is the hose that goes from the connector at the back of the cylinder head, up and through the firewall. Code: 16-7622 Price:$9.68 This is the hose that goes from the connector at the back of the engine side hose, up and through the firewall. Code: 16-7610 Price:$1.25 These often need to be replaced when replacing your 240Z Inlet and Outlet heater hoses. Two required per vehicle. Good Luck!

Just wondering if anyone can decipher what the markings on the bottom of an R200 diff mean. The number 392 followed by a stamp or some kind and the number 724. I'm not sure what year Z the diff came out of. Thanks.

http://www.zparts.com/selectzp/inventory/zpinv_1025test.htm AD # wfs-64 Brand-model American Racing Equipment JET model Size-Offset 14x5.5, 4x114 mm bolt pattern Fits Datsun 4x114 mm bolt pattern, some Toyotas, MGs and early Mustangs. Condition All straight with average curb rash . One wheel center cap area has 1" chipped metal area.. If buyer does not mind same wheel with black paint on it, a substitute for chipped/damaged wheel can be supplied from 2 wheel set for sale in AD wfs-48 for a slightly higher price Quantity Set of 4 Price $260.00 for set of 4 Weight 14.2 lbs Location Richmond, CA 94804 USA Comments Same classic look, vintage wheel featured on yellow G Nose car on front cover of MSA's 2005 catalog. Really a great looking design on any classic car Contact sales@zparts.com

http://www.zparts.com/ads/wheels/wheels_fs.html Western Wheel, Cyclone 1, $350.00 for set w/o center caps... unfortunately sold... http://www.zparts.com/ads/wheels/ads/wfs-49.htm I also agree with finding a parts car for a few hundred bucks... This guy has a lot of Z's on his property. You might want to contact him. http://www.webspawner.com/users/dannysdatsuns/index.html Good Luck!

I thought about using a hole saw but it wasn't until after burning the old bushings out of the mustache bar that I did. It was a pain to get rid of the last of the rubber boogers. The other rubber bushings weren't as bad. After heating them up they slid out fairly easy. It was the mustache bar bushings that caused me the most grief. It's nice to know that the hole saw works.

I thought I'd throw my 2cents in on the originality issue. I bought my '73 Z because it was pretty much unmolested. The ignition switch had been replaced and the car had been re-painted or painted over in the same Orange color but otherwise was stock. I have removed the 2.4 engine, 4 speed and R180 and replaced them with a 2.8, 5 speed and R200 BUT, I intend to keep everything I take off just in case I ever decided to sell it and the buyer is more of a "purist" than I am. I don't have the money or desire to have a car that I hardly ever drive. The weather is good enough here so that I intend to make the '73 my daily driver but plan not to drive it in the rain. I don't like to see classic cars destroyed. I cringe when a vintage car is wrecked in a movie or television show. I never liked Dukes of Hazard but the main reason wasn't the terrible plots and bad acting it was that they had to destroy so many cars during the filming of the series. With that said it really boils down to the fact that it's just not my business what anyone does with their car. I plan to modernize my '73 with electronic ignition, better brakes, etc. but not take away from the original look and feel so to speak. Coming across the Scarab which is now looking like it is an actual Scarab, was a fluke. I was keeping my eye open for a Z for my step-son since he likes mine so much. If the information provided is correct then I think the car is worth the asking price, not so much as a collectible car per say but as a car that has a lot of potential to be turned into a really fun to drive and reliable car. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder... the worth of the car is in the eye of the buyer... Thanks again for everyone's input.

My latest message to the seller: Thanks for the response. Sorry to hear about your injury. I hope you get to feeling better soon. Can you provide more info about the convertible conversion? Was the chassis strengthened/stiffened to compensate? Do you have all the Scarab badges? I guess that the last question is smog check related. It being a '76 and having been purchased in Arkansas, what issues are you aware of with getting it smogged once it's put back together again? In any case I would like to see it on Sunday if possible. I have plans for tomorrow that I can't cancel. >>>>> Didn't get a response until today (Sunday afternoon). >> Seller's response: Good afternoon! Sorry about the delayed response: my rib injury has really slowed me down! Yes, all of the badges are still with the vehicle: The scarab insignia on the sides , on the dash, and in the doorwell. It was originally a turbo, so there is the Scarab Turbo Boost gauge in the dash where the clock used to be.. another piece of Scarab colletible that folks are after. I'm just not parting it out! When I found the car in Hot Springs the top had been cut out in preparation to make a convertible out of it. They took it to the drag strip and then blew out the back window at 120mph...at least thats what I heard. So I made a kind of Ferrari deck on the rear and added a porshe style whale tail. Original Scarab whaletail is available with the car and thus the deck can be converted back to the original glass hatchback. I like my work better. Front airdam is a bit beat up... former girlfriend kept driving it into parking blocks... but easly reglassed . As for strengthening the frame... I took it to a rather well know dragster shop and had a roll cage installed, strenghening the frame and of course the windscreen. Indeed, the work today would cost as much as what I'm asking for this project! There is room to extend the cage through the firewall and tie it to the front strut towers and ladder frame... a modification you'lll find in some of the conversions. The tubing is chromemoly, I believe. I padded it up rather slopply while I was driving it. As for smogg: Well, you'd be able to negotiate with the state when you tagg it. You will need to see a referee. What I would do is have the highway patrol look at it, and try to convince 'em its a 75. Might work. I'll even fill out a bill of sale that says it is. Then you do what you want. I wanted fuel injection for easy starts , dependablity, and fuel economy... so I'd recommend sticking with what I've done so far. I have chrome block hugger headers to go on it. Also, a brand new Summit Racing light weight starter. Copper wires for moving the battery to the trunk... where scarab SHOULD have put it! On the otherhand , you could put any kind of engine in it... including the original turbocharged V8 ( I still have the original promotional literature that went with the car)_ -- but I just put a fresh 91 350 TBI with painless wiring harness (original wiring goes with it) and computer. Thus, it would be smogged on that standard. Lots of ways to do it, actually. The four speed muncie is a "rock crusher" I think...and will bring a good price as well if you want to shift to a five speed or 4 speed automatic. Extra rear end goes with it, all new shocks (front are adjustables from Arizona Z.). Rear shocks for this rare 2+2 are still in the boxes, waiting for installation. Recaro seats. American Racing aluminum wheels all around with new rubber. Steel hood is custom vented . A lot of folks are trying to buy the Scarab aluminum bellhousing, datsun twin callipre racing breaks... dash insignia, medalians, etc... wierd. Buying it in one whack would get em everything a lot cheaper, including Scarab's cool body work. Oh well. Obviously, I'm not trying to sell it hard enough... the collector who wants this machine just doesn't know I have it!

Yep, I'd definitely want proof that it was the genuine article and even if it is, it won't be valuable as one that hasn't been modified/butchered and still has the engine that was initially installed by Scarab. The car is about 100 miles away too. I may still go check it out though. The engine would be a nice fit in my '70 Chevy Pickup if nothing else. Thanks for the heads up on the frame needing re-enforcement since it's now a convertible. I have tried "Googling" Scarab and found some useful information but nothing indicating whether or not they ever converted a 2+2. And of course I had some explaining to do to a certain someone as to why I wanted another Z car. :nervous: Decisions Decisions.... Thanks again for the input.

Thanks for the info. It's good to know that not having the switches connected do not have a negative affect and from the sound of things, is actually an improvement.

I paid $900 for a '71 Z that had a lot of rust but it had a dash in really good shape along with an L28 (P79 Head/F54 Block), a 79 280ZX 5 speed transmission and an R200 rear diff. It also had better rims than I had on "my" '73 240 Z. The seats weren't too shabby either. I think I got a good, if not great deal. I may sell the dash but the engine/tranny/diff are in my '73 now. I plan on removing the glass and window mechanisms before junking it.

Okay, so the engine isn't the one that Scarab Engineering installed, it has been "converted" to a convertible and it isn't complete. BUT, given the description and assuming it's accurate, it looks like it is definitely worth the $3000 asking price. Seems like the Chevy 350 might be worth that alone. Thoughts or opinions? I'd especially like to hear from anyone with in depth knowledge about Scarab Engineering... > Ad for "Scarab" Sale or trade for Jeep or Bronco (projects considered). This is a project car close to completion. My commuter blew up last night so I need a car. Original Scarab Z (1976) with new crate Chevy 350 engine (1991 TBI) , painless wiring harness. Removable hardtop. Whale tail spoiler. IMSA flares. American Racing aluminum wheels. New struts. This is a very rare 2 + 2 > I asked if it was a real Scarab or a V8 conversion... This is the real thing. I forget the production number right off hand this morning -- It is the rarest of them... a 2+2 convertible. > I asked for more info: Good morning: Thanks for your interest: I have owned this machine since I found it in Hot Springs Arkansas in 1988. It has remained stored inside; I"ve used rust stop and it is in really good shape. New suspension. New tires. I have been sanding, preparing for paint. It has been converted to a convertible with a hand laid removeable hardtop. Hardtop needs lowspots filled before paint. Custom whaletail spoiler, original goes with the car. To get it ready to drive: hook up the wiring harness (Painless Wiring) to the lightly used 1991 TBI 350 engine. Connect electric fans. Route fan belts, decide if you want airconditioning. Hook up exaust system. Clean (or replace the radiator with an aluminium one). Drain and clean gas tank. Hook up new electric fuel pump. Prime and start. Condsider replacing the 4 speed muncie for a five speed. It has new clutch components, however. Replace engine hood. Start: drive. Paint. Totally unique piece of automotive history... don't know of any other original Scarab 2+2's in the country. > Thanks

It's good to know where to take your Z for service. I take all my automobiles to: Guaranteed Auto Service 23673 Connecticut St # 1 Hayward, CA 94545 (510) 785-2543 www.guaranteedautoservice.com The owner used to have a Z car back in the day and is the best mechanic I've ever seen. I've been going there for over 12 years now. I do as much work on my '73 240 as I can for the enjoyment of it but they take care of things that are over my head.

Looks like two mounting ears so it must be '79 or earlier. Thanks again.

Thank you very much for the help!

A pic of the switches

It appears to be an 1980-1983 FS5W71B Type B. I bought a '71 rust bucket with a good engine/5spd transmission/R200 diff but no info as to it's history. I'm going on what I've researched here and at Hybrid Z. Thanks

I found the following while searching for a way to identify the 3 switches on my transmission. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3158&highlight=transmission+switches But I still need help. A picture is posted. I believe the most forward switch is the reverse light. I pulled the transmission out of a donor car and all three switches had the wires broken off of them. I've soldered wires for the forward switch. The mounting bracket you see is the rear bracket. Any help identifying the other two switches & confirming that the most forward switch is for the reverse light would be appreciated.

The reply was that the 260/280 program was a bust that it was discontinued a year ago. No chance for a 240 program then.

Maybe they'll do 240Z tail lights too... I sent an email message to them asking about it. http://www.zzxdatsun.com/tailight.html 260/280 Tailight Panel & Bezel Program Taillight panel stripped and repainted the factory original color for $80.00 each exchange. Taillight bezel stripped and plated with chrome over nickel for $120.00 each exchange-includes new fasteners.