yor5150

My '73 did not have this piece but a '71 parts car that had it's engine, tranny and diff already swapped out did. I have no idea what year 280Z/280ZX the parts come from though.

Nice job, thanks for sharing. When you say: "And honestly, I don't think anything or anyone could make me happier than that damn car does.", I know what you mean.

Datsun 240Z vs Yamaha R1 http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-7953297348470789391&q=v8+240z Looks like the Z is holding it's own...

Thanks for the responses. I'll pick up a set from eBay.

Does anyone know of a better, perhaps less expensive source for OEM bolts, nuts & washers to connect the halfshafts to the rear diff & hubs? This is a often seen auction on eBay... ...set of new genuine NOS datsun hardware for 1970-1978 datsun 240z,260z,280z.Also 1979-1983 datsun 280zx.These are the bolts,nuts,washers that attach the halfshafts to the rear differential.This is enough for 2 axles. $22.99. I would need two kits to bolt to the diff and the wheels. Thanks in advance.

I can't do a before and after for you. I drove the car from Burbank to the Bay Area where it sat in my garage waiting for me to replace the stock flat top carbs. When I did I replaced the stock exhaust manifold with the MSA header and twice pipes exhaust. I found that the exhaust was anything but "bolt on" and that there was welding required when "no welding" was part of the ad. A mechanic buddy owed me a favor so I took the car down to have the ZTherapy carbs dialed in. I "coat hanger'd" the exhaust in place and took it to him since it would be much easier to install on a lift. He ended up fabricating a lot of the exhaust pieces and welding them together so it didn't look so frankenstein. I was not happy with the performance when I got it back but again, since it had been so long since I got to drive it "before" I can't say if I lost any power. It may just be the stock 240Z engine. I don't know if it has 78,000 miles or 178,000 miles but overall the car didn't look abused and seems to have been garaged and well cared for. I found a rustbucket with a 280ZX engine, tranny and diff so I'm in the middle of swapping things over. I want to bring my ZTherapy carbs over too. I'm seriously considering going with the stock exhaust manifold rather than pony up the money for the MSA header/exhaust combo. I can't move my header over anyway because of different shape of the head ports and money is a little tight right now. I saw this post and was hoping to hear from people whether they noticed an increase or decrease in performance. Of course using your butt for a dyno doesn't equate to accuracy by any means! Good luck!

Thanks Enigma. The car was advertised as having a 280Z engine & tranny in it which I verified before buying. I didn't think I'd be so lucky as to get an R200 as part of the deal. The dash is near perfect too. I don't understand that because the car doesn't appear to have been well kept. It's obvious that is was exposed to salt, road salt or salt water mist, I don't know but the shell need too much work to salvage (IMHO). Anyway, thanks for responding. It's always good to get more than expected out of the deal.

I think I lucked out since the bolts on the parts car diff are 12mm and my R180 is indeed 14mm. I'll check the rest of the "what to look for tomorrow". >>>>The rear cover of the R180 is held on with LARGE bolts (14mm). The R200 has SMALL bolts (12mm). Thanks for the information Zvoiture. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9031&highlight=differentials >>>>The most common one is "R200's are much bigger", but as has been mentioned, that is tough unless you have them side-by-side or are reasonably experienced. >>>>The two big main rear cover bolts (actually studs) that hold the diffy to the mustache bar take a 17mm wrench on the R180 and a 19mm wrench on the R200. >>>>Behind the output shafts on each side of the R180 there is a flange held on with 4 bolts. The R200 does no have these flanges. It is just smooth. >>>>The rear cover of the R180 is held on with LARGE bolts (14mm). The R200 has SMALL bolts (12mm). >>>>The rolled ends on the mustache bar of a R180 wrap around toward the FRONT of the car. The R200 bar comes off the REAR of the loops.

I bought a '71 240Z parts car with a 280Z engine (P79 Head/F54 Block) along with a 5 speed. It would be an even better bargain if the diff turns out to be an R200. I can't determine what the differential is though and was hoping someone with a better eye and/or more experience might be able to identify it by pics. I've looked at the following info/links but still can't figure it out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6212/diffswap/diffswap.htm http://zhome.com/rnt/L28conversion/Diff.jpg http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9031&highlight=differentials More pics of the parts car and my R180 are located at: http://s86.photobucket.com/albums/k102/yorbay/ Thanks in advance!

Good food for thought. Thanks for the responses. I get the "click" from time to time. Usually I wait a second or two then try again and the solenoid activates. I'll try cleaning the switch with contact cleaner first along with looking for the "sweet spot".

Thought I'd ask for Zs-ondabrain opinion about the article on Addition of a Relay to a 240Z Starter System found at http://www.biopatent.com/solenoid.html.

1972 NISSAN 240Z High & low beam headlamp H6024 H6024ST Silverstar High Performance Lighting: The Whiter and Brighter Halogen H6024XV XtraVision Halogen - The Brighter Light H6024CB Cool Blue Halogen - The Whiter Light Parking light 1157 1157LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp Front turn signal 1157 1157LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp Rear turn signal 1157 1157LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp Tail light 1157 1157LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp Stop light 1157 1157LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp License plate 1895 Front sidemarker 67/97 Rear sidemarker 67/97 Dome light DE3175 Instrument-general 1445

1973 NISSAN 240Z High & low beam headlamp H6024 H6024ST Silverstar High Performance Lighting: The Whiter and Brighter Halogen H6024XV XtraVision Halogen - The Brighter Light H6024CB Cool Blue Halogen - The Whiter Light Parking light 1157 1157LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp Front turn signal 1157 1157LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp Rear turn signal 1156 1156LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp Tail light 1157 1157LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp Stop light 1157 1157LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp License plate 89 Back up light 1156 1156LL Long Life Upgrade: Up to twice the life of the standard lamp Front sidemarker 67/97

I did use search and found the answer after looking through the manuals for about a half hour. Thanks for the info. Gotta love this site!

This is a link to one of several videos of a rust bucket restoration. The first few minutes of the one below shows some interesting dash work. http://www.voodoo-people.com/~daz/mull/wmv/mull@hugo06.wmv This is from HybridZ if you want the other vids. 1971 Datsun 240z resto.project (pics/vids) [56k warning]

Dave, I stand corrected: I installed your "Parking light CIRCUIT upgrade harness". :nervous: I stayed up too late the other night, past the point of diminishing return on time spent which is probably why I didn't notice the plug becoming loose. Anyway, all is well now. I drove the Z to work today. The lighting is definitely brighter after installing the harness. When I removed it "just in case", the various lights were noticeably dimmer. I hope I did not imply that the problem was either of your harnesses because I didn't think for a minute it was. Good troubleshooting techniques indicate that you always change back if possible, any recent changes after noticing a problem. After verifying it was not the harness I went back to where I ran the wire and discovered the plug. Basic troubleshooting after a good night's sleep but difficult to think of when punchy at 1:00 AM in the morning! I learned more about the Z's wiring that I wanted to at the time but it's still valuable info. I'm going to have to fabricate my own set of relays & wiring for my 1970 Chevy Pickup... I'm not concerned about originality with it so I probably won't try to mimic your set up with the plug-n-play harness but am I glad you developed one for the Z car! Thanks again for providing an awesome solution to a nagging problem. I wish you and your family well.

Turns out it was the large blue plug and jack, one of 4 large plugs/jacks that I believe connect the engine harness to the instrument harness. I must have somehow knocked it loose when I was running the wire for the tail light harness upgrade. Thanks again for responding.

Thanks to both of you for the response. For response one, I didn't see any disconnected wires. For response two, thanks Dave. I'll break out the multimeter as soon as possible. I may not get to it until Saturday. I appreciate the feedback. - Roy

What might be common between the headlights & windshield wipers besides the switch itself? It's past 2:00 AM and I have to get up at 5:30! I've spent the last few hours working on my 240Z. I just got it back from my buddy's shop. I traded some computer work for tuning my ZTherapy SU's and installing a 5 speed transmission. I have to wait until business is slow for the work to get done but it's worth it. Anyway, I had installed Dave's headlight harness prior to driving it down to the shop and they were working. It's been about a month since I dropped it off. I installed the tail light harness this afternoon and it worked great. BUT, now the headlights don't work and neither does the windshield wipers! It was daylight when I started working on the car so I didn't even think to verify that the headlights were still working. I checked for voltage to the 30 AMP fuse in the harness upgrade to the relays and am getting voltage there. I removed the tail light harness just to see what would happen. Nothing did - still no headlights. Tomorrow I'll check voltage at the headlights themselves after reading about someone experiencing a power surge that took out their headlights. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25863 I'll also check things out with the info Dave provided @ http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25435. All the fuses are good... As I mentioned at the beginning of the post, what might be common between the headlights & windshield wipers besides the switch itself? Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks in advance.

Dave, Don't know if you'd be interested in this or not but on eBay there is a wiring harness(es) or, as the ad states: "These are wire hernes for 1969-1973 Datsun 240Z. They were working just fine. I just pulled them out due to engine issues." with a "Buy it Now" price of $30. It's difficult to tell by the pics if it's junk or not & the description isn't that descriptive. eBay wiring harness Anyway, thought I'd let you know. The auction ends on May-28-07 19:59:59 PDT. Image

I removed the flat tops off of my '73 240Z and installed dome tops. I also installed a heat shield from a '72 so that I would be able to connect the return springs. I found the heat shield on eBay. Good luck!

The install was exceptionally easy. Great design & craftsmanship quality! Thanks.

It was dark when I went to look at another item this guy was selling but a "once over" with a flashlight seems to verify what is in the ad. I didn't want to look too in depth because I was already figuring out how to tell my girlfriend that I had bought another Z and how it was different from the one I have even though it looks the same to her, etc. I don't know about the logistics related to getting the car from CA to GA but it seems like a car that could be "driven for a while and ultimately restored". I believe it has been repainted but otherwise seems to be stock with a 4 speed. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/car/295977811.html "Need to sell my yellow original 1970 Datsun 240z with hardly any rust, original interior/exterior and perfect dash - no cracks!! Also will come with 2 sets of rims - Original "D" rims only found on the 70-71's in excellent condition, and red center rims standard on the 71's thru 74's. Odometer reads 45K, but that's most likely 145K" Someone buy it before I do!

I was until FuryInferno stepped up! Thanks FuryInferno!

HLS30-163770 Okay, who is going to get a spreadsheet going?