m240

I had the same problem with after market seals so I changed to OEM and everthing was fine.

James, sorry to here about your loss. The holidays are always tough when some one you love isn't there anymore to share them with you. My father will be gone 20 years this this year and yes time makes it a little easier, but you still wish the hell they were still alive. Just try to get through the holiday as best you can and I hope next year is a better one for you. Mark

73' 240z for sale. New floorboards, area under battery repaired, new paint, zx distributer, aluminum datsun wheels, many extra parts. Includes 71' parts car. $1995. obo SOLD 12/26/03

Did you try Courtesy Nissan? I contacted them about springs a few months ago and they said they could get them. They were about $70 a piece. Mark

Unfortunatley I've had both leak. The glass to hatch seal was leaking in the bottom corner and a littlle silicon cured it, though I recently replaced the seal when I painted it. When I painted it I left off the outer hatch seal for a couple of weeks and during a storm I saw water running in from the top corners of the hatch. I replaced that seal also and it is now bone dry inside. Mark

What trannies do you have and where in PA are you? Mark

I talked to my sister who lives in San Diego yesterday, she says the skies are yellow all day and at times the ash is almost as heavy as light snow.

I only saw one notch but I'll look again. Thanks for the reply! Mark

I have a 71' engine and was wondering if all engines have timing marks on the crankshaft pulley because mine does not seem to. I looked in Haynes and it shows the timing marks but on mine it has the arrow on the block and a notch on the pulley. I've tried using a timing light to line up the arrow and the notch but the closest it gets is about 3 to 4 inches away from the left of the arrow. Is the notch 0 degrees or am I supposed to line them both up? I was going to try static timing it but without any gauge I didn't know where to start. I had posted before about this and someone mentioned that the oil pump might might be a tooth off. I just wanted to double check everything before I try moving the oil pump. The car runs now, but not as smooth as I think it should and I do get some backfires on de-acceleration. That is why I think there is a problem. I've used a colortune on the carbs and so I think they are close. Thanks, Mark

Thanks for the reply! I used door seals from VB the first time and had other leaks from them, I then switched to nissan seals and the leaks went away. By the way I ordered the nissan seals from a friend who has a body shop and with his discount they were about half of what Curtesey Nissan quoted. So if you know someone in the bussiness you can save $. I will calk everything on the door now and use a new plastic seal, hopefully this will cure the leak! Thanks, Mark

I found the water leak! After changing the door seals to nissan seals, replacing the windshield gasket, inspecting under the cowel, and replacing the seals that snap onto the top of the door to seal the window the leak was cured on the passenger side. We had a rain storm today and i sat in the car while it rained to track down the drivers side leak. I pulled the inner door panel and the plastic seal behind it( that had cracks in it) and watched a constant drip from the front by the mirror and a slower drip from the rear. I know the door has drain holes in the bottom, but how much water is supposed to get inside the door? Is the inner seal supposed to stop whatever water that gets in the door from entering the car? I have to replace the chrome and rubber seal again that goes on top of the door by the window because it got a little deformed while i was trying to tighten it a liitle to stop the leaks, is this piece the culprit of the leaks or is it normal to get water in the door? Sorry for being so long winded, I'm just glad to finally find where the water is coming from. Mark

James was this place you went to down by where you live or out in my direction? Mark

I was afraid that you would say that. It seemed odd that it would chip like that(the old paint and not the new paint) being that I just painted it about a month ago. I think i'll do some work on the other parts of the car and save up some money to get it stripped and repainted. Thanks, Mark

Thanks for the replies! When I saw 2 leads on the new switch and only 1 lead on the old switch it made me pause and think it was the wrong switch but it makes sense now. By the way I have another question. I just painted the car and already got a couple of small chips in it. The chips were through my new paint actually coming from under the paint underneath it. Does this mean that it has been repainted to many times. This is the second time it has been repainted. Thanks, Mark

The switch that is on the car has one wire soldered onto it and it plugs into the harness. The new switch has a wire soldered onto the rear of it( maybe to go onto the harness where the other one went) and one wire soldered onto the outside of the switch( the part that is going to contact the metal of the body). Do i disregard the wire soldered onto yhe outside of the switch(because it is going to touch the body anyway) and just use the wire soldered on the rear? This does not make sense unless the switch breaks the ground going to the light. Mark