Diseazd

Reach under the carbs when the car is running and push up on the choke nozzles. If they are hanging up it causes the exact problem you have. you’ll hear a little snap if they are indeed hanging up. If Ztherapy built the carbs, you can feel confident its not in the carbs. IMO

Good job……me and my son Brandon did the same thing with our favorite IPA. 🥳

Wow……Driving trains. That’s something I never knew you did Madkaw. Don’t think you should have any problem getting that name back……no one else grabbed it. 😬

He did Brian…..Read the bridge sign…..Road Atlanta…..bunch of angry Datsuns etc. Happy New Year….hope to see ya soon. PS….I heard they had snow in Atlanta last week….great hill for sleigh rides!

My son thinks I need Adderall too…….Good luck with the restorations…..like I said, the most satisfying part of owning an early Z.

Wow, @dspillmana lot of interesting stuff in your pics. First of all, what a great early Z, Looking forward to your progress. What’s the story on I) The race car and 2) All the other Z’s in the pictures. Didn’t mean to divert your thread (I get carried away sometimes) Also, you’re only one state away if there’s anything I can do to help.

My body and paint guy (Chuck’s Frame Shop) has been in the frame and paint biz for 50 years. He is a perfectionist with all of the right gadgets. I don’t know what that particular frame alignment device is, but he had a blueprint of the 240Z specs taped to the door when installing the new clip. He said the finished product was perfect to spec…..probably better than original.

Been there…..done that. The most fun you’ll have owning a Z. Very satisfying!

It’s not just the gear box that determines the hubcap, it’s all of the other items in a supposed Series 1 or transition to Series 2 Z IMO. Most Series 1 cars had the ashtrays and cig lighters forward of the gear shift, they had angular half shafts and early trannys. The very early cars had 240Z on the roof quarters and vents in the tailgate. Later so called transition Z’s had no vents in the tailgate and picked those vents up on the roof quarters, but all other early features mentioned above stayed (early tranny, ash tray location, angular half shafts, cig lighter etc.) I assume all early Z’s and transition Series 1 Z’s had D hubcaps, but just my guess……Carl Beck @Carl Beckmay be able to add info or @kats @jfa.series1 @HS30-H I would be very interested to know if the transition Z’s (later 71) were considered Series 1 or Series 2? I assume that they wore D hubcaps if they had the early tranny, console and other early items that they came with D caps…….but are the transition Z’s 1’s or 2’s? Anyone?

Wildwoods are a fairly straight forward bolt on. They work well with my stock brake master cylinders too.

Great product, great price, great service!

Good question. I asked Jim Frederick the same question because I have an early 71 also. He said if it’s got an early (monkey motion) transmission, it had D hubcaps. Mine has early transmission, angular half shafts, early ash tray etc. No vents in the tailgate and no 240Z on the back roof vents, but if he’s correct, it came with D hubcaps. Anyone agree or disagree?

Very cool…..will you replace the early crank with a fully balanced crank when you do the rebuild? They are easy to find and cheap. Can’t wait to see this transformation.

Chuck’s frame shop in Richmond, Virginia is terrific…..a perfectionist that has done many Z’s and Porsches. Here are a couple he did for me.

IMHO, seems to me if you sent those carbs off to Z Therapy to install new floats and valves it would be a cheap fix to know it’s done right. Just kind of sounds tricky to start modifying floats by drilling and screwing stuff in them. Why God created money. Power Brake Exchange built a couple boosters for me…..beautiful work.

Isky performance springs have deep valve spring retainer pockets. If you use any lash pads less than about .140’s, they will hit the retainers. It looks like you have two different size lash pads. Lash pads should sit high like the .175’s you show. You shouldn’t have to modify anything if you use thicker lash pads.

You can remove all rockers but one. Remove all spark plugs. Turn the engine over by hand. Get the right lash pad to center the wipe pattern on that rocker and the rest should be close.

Just my opinion, but I’d work with lash pads and adjustment before I’d pull that head. This is my Stroker with Isky Stage III cam and the same valve springs as you. .160 lash pads centered my wipe patterns. Check my valve numbers….zoom in to read em. Definitely check wipe patterns before starting.

Some jobs should be left to the professionals……

You are correct. I remember building early L series engines using the later (73) pistons…..all that was available. The pistons would come out if I recall fifteen thousands of an inch. The books call for sixty thousands of an inch clearance. OK with the open chamber head but closer with the early E88 and E31 heads. They worked with the early heads, but it made you wonder. 🤞

Stock head……surprised at how much fun it was to drive. Won’t compete with my other Z’s, but much better performance than I was expecting.

A lot of money and a lot of work to get the P79 head right. I have a 73 with the late E88 head that is a lot of fun to drive. It’s running early SU’s and has a nice toned exhaust. With the small displacement and the costs associated with the modded head, I’d go back with the E88 head. Just MHO.

You can have your shifter modified to work.