Diseazd

Gumby.....Did they mill your piston with the rod attached?

Thanks Fred....seems the 73 flycut pistons are a slight different size than the 70,71 or 72. From what I extracted from the knowledge bank at the Mitty was that there's enough clearance on a street driven Z (no rod stretch) to bolt her up and run. I seem to have about .020 clearance and it's only around the outter edge of the combustion chamber. Andy (70 Cam Guy) found a .020 soft copper shim at NAPA if needed. Thanks Guy

Talked to Carl Beck and Jim Frederick at the Mitty.......The 73 pistons come out of the block by .030". It's not the block! The .020 clearance should be plenty for a street car......They are currently building one in Florida with 73 pistons also. I'll build it onward and post pics of the finished product. Oh...by the way....we had breakfast with John Morton, Pete Brock and Les in Atlanta. A world of engine knowledge at that event. Guy

He's not only my son but my partner......someone has to make a living while I knock out drinks with you Ron! Guy

12 foot lbs. to max of 15 foot lbs.........no more or you'll strip the aluminum head.

I just talked to Z Doc in Roanoke. He brought up a good point. The machine shop should have attached the front cover when decking.......otherwise the block and front cover will not match up to the block deck......learning is fun!!!!:stupid:

As I understand it you can have the flat top of the piston out of the block by .015 with the stock gasket which crushes to .050 inches. The clearance needs to be .035 inch minimum. I believe that the gasket that MSA sells is for a bored out L28 and is 2mm. If anyone knows where I can get a 2mm gasket for a .040 over L24 I sure would appreciate your help. 2mm would be .080 less .035 out of the block would be .045 clearance. Thanks Guy P.S. It's a P30 block

You're right about that! The number on the crank is E3141. I pulled a piston.....both rod and piston were L24 (long rods). I'll pull all pistons and dump this block in the garbage!!! It's beautiful with it's new paint and brass freeze plugs. What a shame! Guy

Which means that the engine block must have been decked before......but .035 of an inch? .......WOW!

That'll help. The reason I ask, is because I'm building an L24 (72). I bought the motor used, so I don't know the history. I put the bottom end together assuming all was original ( it didn't look like it had ever been apart) and when I installed the .040 over 240Z Nissan pistons, they came out of the deck by .035 inches. The machine shop decked the block .008 of an inch and assures me no more, but the piston is out .035 of an inch. I pulled a rod and they are 240Z rods. Is it possible someone had installed (by mistake) an L26-L28 crank?

If you have an L series crankshaft by itself, how do you determine whether it is an L26...L28 or an L24 without measuring the stroke? In other words, are there any marks or numbers to simplify the process?

You don't need it......just use 2 metric wrenches!

Absolutely beautiful!!!!!.....Put some original seat covers along with the steering wheel IMO.

I remember slobbering over those body parts.....Called the guy, but he wouldn't sell separately. I think he shipped it overseas, and if I remember correctly, he wanted $5,000.00.

ZLADY......We're proud of you!!!! Guy

It costs me more in time and gas to drive to the dealer than shipping. :stupid:

MSA has them.

Undoubtably the best bang for the buck that you can install in your Datsun! This thing really does what's it supposed to. The bump stop is the way to go as far as simplicity. Use both the original and the bump stop for best results (damps the unit). Dave ......your product as usual is superb! Guy

Maybe Bruce "screwed up"!

Looking forward to seeing your car Ron ...........I'm sure John Morton will enjoy it too. I was sitting on the back Esses at Road Atlanta when he won the Road Race of Champions back in the 70's!

Got my dinner tix too.....Anyone up for a drink of alchohol? Guy

Thanks for that John......Carlos at Citizens Machine (Highland Springs,Va. ) is the man with Z heads......35 years as a machinist. He owns the shop and does a couple SCCA racers. He'll do a beautiful job for you! PM me and let me know what you're thinking about as far as mods. His number is 804-737-9211. He's a little hard to understand on the phone, but a master machinist! Guy

They just keep coming out of the woodwork.....don't they?

Thanks Arne....much appreciated!

I've got tranny fluid leaking from the area where the front of the driveshaft slides into the rear of the tranny. Anyone have a solution to this problem or know of any previous posts dealing with this? I assume it's probably a seal of some sort. Thanks Guy