Diseazd

All parts rust free.....only in California.....home of the silent electric vehicles!

Holy crap.....the rear quarter panel looks great.....worth $1,000.00.

No thanks Mike......I spent more on my sculpture than I did on my first Z. Saving my money to go to Holland next year with you to meet our girls!!!! Guy

Beautiful car.....great photography! Safari Gold rocks and so do your chrome bumpers. A great improvement Jim. Regards Guy

I agree Steve.....this is a car site and @Mike oughta make that clear.

Wish I could help Zup.......there are some things I leave to those whom do it for a living. Rubber trim is one of those items. LOL.

Yeah Site.......one of my favorite Z Nuts on the forum! Until I met you at Road Atlanta, I didn’t know whether you were a BOT or for real. Keep doing what you are doing..........Happy to be your friend! Stay the same Guy

Couldn’t agree more! Ztherapy is how all businesses should be run! Bruce and Steve are the best.

Obviously we can’t comment on the expertise of the builder, but I would say that the N42 Head has L28 (larger) intake valves. If I remember correctly, if the block on an L24 isn’t bored at least .030 inches, the valves could contact the side of the bores. I would confirm that it was overbored before I purchased that engine. That being said, his satisfaction number is 100%, so I would hope that he did bore the block for that head.

No problems.......still perfect.....go for it!

Adivin.......The factory installed undercoating in the wheel wells holds paint just fine in my experience. It’ll look great IMO.

I’m late to this thread, but when the Z Doc in Roanoke, Virginia was still alive, he had a simple solution for the problem of the early mount being NLA. He said, if you take a Series 2 mount and simply rotate it 180 degrees, it works perfectly as a Series 1 mount. Give it a try and see if that works. Guy

Incredible work Rich....from A to Z! You really don’t miss anything. I’ll bet your shirts all hang perfectly in the right direction in your closet.

I’m with you Charles and Mark......fire that thing up. You’ve got oil to the valve train!

Did you fill the oil pump with oil before installing?......very important. Just cranking over doesn’t produce much oil pressure. If you watch the gauge carefully when cranking over with plugs out, any movement, however minuscule of the needle, means you’ve got oil to the head. That’s assuming that you didn’t forget to install the oil pickup LOL.

Agreed.....good advice.....I would leave that up to a good machine shop. The pistons have been no problem with .8mm (.032 inches) of clearance with a stock head gasket in the early L24.

No need to measure, 240260280’s post shows these pistons are .7mm taller, and I’ve seen that when I used these later pop up pistons. When you order replacement pistons from Nissan, this is what you get.....or got (not sure if still available). With allowable clearance varying from builder to builder ( most want 1 to 1.5 mm clearance), is .8mm clearance enough? It was in my build, but some may argue it’s not. My question is how much can be shaved off the top of the piston to reach a comfort zone of clearance in the early engines?

I’ve been trying to get info on these pistons for a while. I built an L24 engine with 1mm oversized Nissan pistons (with these valve reliefs) some time back and noticed these pistons were about .7mm above deck. I had installed the early E88 Head. They were no problem and worked fine, but my guess is with the stock gasket, they were close to being “too close” to the early head. They worked fine, no contact issues even at high rpm, but I see where 240260280 shows the service bulletin from Nissan saying they were “NOT interchangeable with the earlier cars”. I would imagine if too much metal was taken to “true” the block, there could be a contact issue. Any experience with these pistons being used with the early heads, and if someone was concerned with these pistons being too close, would having a machine shop shave the piston top say .5mm solve the problem? In other words, how much could you machine off of these pistons without affecting the piston?

Looks peachy, but florescent light can really play games with orange and red cars. These are the same car under different lighting.

Hi Steve.....I was really hoping you would win this auction.......one of my very favorite colors. You don’t see many in this color and I don’t know why......maybe there weren’t that many from the factory. If it was mine, I’d do a total first class restoration......it would be a jewel! Regards. Guy

Sorry dutchzcarguy.....you are “the man” Site is “the boy”! Same for you Alan....makes sense.....my door card was meant for a “right hand drive” Z. What I get for not reading the whole thread. I stand corrected!

Yeah, I bought a set of OEM door cards sometime back that had the holes for the pull handle on the driver side. All doors have the receiver threads for the bolts that hold the pull handle on (at least my early 71 did). I just attached a new pull handle and was done. It’s a nice addition and I always wondered why the set was cut for the driver side handle. Anyone know the answer? @Carl Beck BTW....nice job in picking that out Site.....very observant!.

A steal at $660.00. One of the hardest parts to find for the 240Z.

I’m running Eibach springs with Tokico blues. BTW, the Panasports are IMO “best in class”. You’ll live with your wheels for a long time. The car is a 35,000 original mile car that had zero rust, and I mean zero. My painter is an absolute perfectionist! He block sanded for over 50 hours on a car that just had minor flaws to begin with. He’s the best that I’ve seen. My Safari Gold car (Brandon shot these too) is another one of his paint works. Thanks for your comments.

205-55-16 tires are the perfect size. I’ve tried em all. No rubbing with those on my 16x7 Panasports.