Diseazd

We're snowed in in Richmond......ZPIZZAMAN20......I haven't forgotten the engine etc. I bought from you. Just can't get there with all the snow!!!

Roger that Bruce.....This Global warming is killing us! Happy New Year...... Guy

Great looking ride.....nothing handles and drives much better than a Z32 right out of the box......I love mine!

Brandon.......Awesome pics.....you're definitely "A chip off the old block"!

MSA or Black Dragon has them......get new gaskets (one on each side of spacer) while you're at it.

Steve.....One of my fraternity brothers from Georgia Tech started the Mitty. He races Vintage cars.Do you know Steve Simpson? If you do tell him Hi. Guy Miller

First thing.....adjust your valves to .008 intake .010 exhaust. Then do another test.....if you don't get an increase in compression, you have somewhat of a problem. True, no cylinder should be 15% off of another, but 100 lbs. is too low. Probably needs rings. Should be reading 160 or so. Good luck!

Don't forget the spacer and gaskets between the fuel pump and head.

You'll need a $3.00 filter.....and your carb fuel rail. That should take fuel to those SU's.

That is the mechanical fuel pump......you'll need the eccentric for the front of the cam.

Good advice!

no spacer on the manual. 2+2 has a 240mm flywheel......get a 240z flywheel, or you'll have to change a number of things as mentioned in aforementioned post. However if all your parts are from a 2+2 (trans, flywheel, pressure plate, clutch lever etc., it will work).

You were right Jon......Thick rubber floor mat was the culprit.

Check to make sure your choke nozzels (directly below the carbs) have not hung open.......happens all the time. Reach under each carb and try to push 'em back up.

What fuel system are you running? SU's or fuel injection?

Rich..... Congratulations......Looks like a solid restorable Z! Get rid of the flat-top carbs......but by all means, keep those yellow centercaps!

Hi Pat......Car sits as of last post. Chuck started block sanding in prep for jamming, but the snow storm brought in more profitable insurance jobs. Four weeks ago, he said he was going to start jamming everything in two weeks......sound familiar? I don't every pressure him.....just glad he decided to do "one more restoration". When he starts the next phase, it should go quickly. Thanks for your interest......I'll update when there's something of interest. Guy

Iinitially thought it may have hung up on the brake master-vac hose and moved the that hose over. No such luck....it did it again Sunday.......It really gets your attention when you put the clutch in to shift and the RPM's go off the chart.......Thank God for the heavier Isky springs or my pistons would have been eating valves!!

Anyone ever had their throttle stick wide open? It's the second time it's happened......I suspect the thick rubber mats, but not sure......I can't make it stick when I try.......It'll really get your attention when it happens!!!

I want to start a thread where members give one step performance improvements that gave them an economical boost in HP..... Like..... has anyone added L28 valves to an L24 E31 or E88 and put the stock engine back together and reported on that mod improvement alone. That would be a real easy and economical mod that would put L28 type flow with the shorter stroke L24 block. I would be interested in that result........or maybe someone just put an European rapid advance distributor......nothing else. How did that help. What else?

I've got two L28'S with L-490 grind and one L-24 with the L-480 grind. I've got several E 31 heads that I thought I'd create a cam that required less investment but still gets some pop, but Jon and Mike are right, I would still need new rockers so I wouldn't really be saving a lot. I know Schnieder makes a .460 lift 270 intake and 280 exhaust.......wondering if anyone can comment on that cam's performance. Isky charges $250.00 to set up your own profile and just thought I might create something fun (just mild street). Guy

That's probably pretty good advice. Thanks Guy

You're gonna love the Willwoods!

I'm looking for ideas for building a regrind cam that will work with the stock Z valve train (springs, seals etc.) I know I'm going to make it a .460 lift, but looking for suggestions for duration. I know that Scheinider builds a cam with 270 intake and 280 exhaust and .460 lift......anyone had experience with that cam? I do want a regrind for longevity however. Also, does anyone have experience with Cam Techniques in Florida? They supposedly built the cams for Bob Sharpe. Any ideas on what I should use on this custom cam would be appreciated. It should be nice to pick up some pop without the hassel of springs and seals for a street driven car.

GreenZZZ......Excellent job of illustrating one of the most difficult jobs to be performed on the Z!