Diseazd

Well said Mitchell.......It's much better to pay up for a rust free shell than to pay some one to bring a problem child up to snuff. When we had the big snow storm a couple of weeks ago in Virginia, the first thing that came to my mind was the dreaded increase in insurance claims. But you certainly don't want to rush a good bodyman!

This site might help you. http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/index.htm

2 years so far.......probably six more months to completion.

PM Carl Beck with the info......he tracks the early cars.

Thanks Jon........I appreciate your knowledge and help. Happy New Year! Guy

Is there valve seal clearance problems with an Isky Stage III (.490 lift) cam? Or is that the maximum lift possible without valve seal mods?

http://datsunzgarage.com/ Try this site.......Lots of good info!

I consult with the Z Doctor in Roanoke for the "word" on Datsun heads. He has over 40 years experience and knows what he's doing. I'm building a number of engines right now, just because I like to experiment. The P 79 head (as well as the P90 head which is the same minus the liners and port shapes) can be shaved .080 inches to increase compression. The towers and valve springs must be shimmed .080 as well. He insists that the quench is the key to the performance advantage of the P79 and P90 heads. I recently asked him since I was building another L 28, should I use the e88 (which I have in stock) with L28 intake and exhaust valves or an unshaved P79 head and he said he would go with the P79. The E88 with the L28 valves would be similar to the N42, so I think that would indicate that quench is the advantage. Most people I talk to, don't think that the liners are an issue in the P79. Supposedly when you use a lift of over .460 inches, you must use valve springs for that application. I would be interested to know if anyone has used a Stage III with a .490 lift with stock valve springs and if so, what is the result? The Datsun engines respond good to higher than stock lift.....especially above 3,000 rpm.

I believe .460 inches is the maximum lift that can be used with the stock springs.

Jared.......Incredible job! If you're doing laps at VIR and Road Atlanta, I wonder if you know Dr. Bill Reed in Knoxville .......he holds some lap records on Road Atlanta in a Toyota. Bill just retired from racing. Next time I'm in Knoxville, I've got to see this car. One of our friends has an RB 26 Z. It's just incredible as I'm sure this will be.....can't wait to hear it! Guy

I've never had a bad experience at BD.......It's a great place to buy nuts and bolts .... and they're well illustrated. MSA is still my favorite vendor if I can't find something at Nissan (always my first choice). If you're a member of a Z club, MSA will set up a permanent auto discount of 10%. Over the years that can really add up!

Don't put an L24 cam in an L28 w/o a spray bar.....L24 cams don't have oil holes in the lobes.

My 240 G/C kit included a number of O-rings that I assumed were rolled over the strut to eliminate the space between the sleeve and the strut.

Thanks for clearing that up Arne.....I didn't know that.

Mark....The FSM puts smogged engines at 5 degrees btdc, desmogged at 17 degrees btdc. I agree with above.......advance 5 degrees at a time and avoid any detonation.

ROFLI built an L-16 in my kitchen once.......I put down 3 layers of cardboard and built it with no engine stand. I was single at the time! Brandon has a picture of it on my FLIKR below(page 4).

Call 'em......they had them six months ago.

Summit Racing has aftermarket Z pistons in standard and .040 over.

You really ought to be in comedy Dave.....you crack me up!

Thanks I'll check the PCV, but it seems to be coming from the top and front.

Thanks Casey, but I disconnected the fan belt and still had the noise......that eliminates the fan. I'm going to check the cam sprocket bolt to make sure if it didn't bottom out before locking in the fuel pump eccentric cam......just thought about that as a possibility. Something is making the noise and that's a potential noise source. I'll let you know if that's it. Guy

I had already checked that......the thermostat bolt was not the problem. I pulled the front cover and put in another new tensioner and readjusted the chain......not the problem. It's the damnest thing I've ever dealt with ........the noise comes on at 1400 rpm and disappears at 3,000 rpm. There was no sign of wear or stress anywhere. The cam and rockers are perfect. The only other rotating items I haven't eliminated is the cam and the distributor drive shaft. Ron Isky said he had never heard of a harmonic problem with the L-series stage III cams. The engine runs perfect......I'm baffled!!! Guy

That's what I needed to know.......Thanks Guy

Anyone know offhand what ratio was in the R200 diff in the 83 280ZX non turbo?

BLAKT OUT......I think you made a great decision....can't wait to hear the results. Also, I like your idea of building the original engine and having it on an engine stand ready to bring it back to original. I did the same thing.....3 times. Your project is a joy to watch.....best of luck with the final product! Guy