Diseazd

You were right Jon......Thick rubber floor mat was the culprit.

Check to make sure your choke nozzels (directly below the carbs) have not hung open.......happens all the time. Reach under each carb and try to push 'em back up.

What fuel system are you running? SU's or fuel injection?

Rich..... Congratulations......Looks like a solid restorable Z! Get rid of the flat-top carbs......but by all means, keep those yellow centercaps!

Hi Pat......Car sits as of last post. Chuck started block sanding in prep for jamming, but the snow storm brought in more profitable insurance jobs. Four weeks ago, he said he was going to start jamming everything in two weeks......sound familiar? I don't every pressure him.....just glad he decided to do "one more restoration". When he starts the next phase, it should go quickly. Thanks for your interest......I'll update when there's something of interest. Guy

Iinitially thought it may have hung up on the brake master-vac hose and moved the that hose over. No such luck....it did it again Sunday.......It really gets your attention when you put the clutch in to shift and the RPM's go off the chart.......Thank God for the heavier Isky springs or my pistons would have been eating valves!!

Anyone ever had their throttle stick wide open? It's the second time it's happened......I suspect the thick rubber mats, but not sure......I can't make it stick when I try.......It'll really get your attention when it happens!!!

I want to start a thread where members give one step performance improvements that gave them an economical boost in HP..... Like..... has anyone added L28 valves to an L24 E31 or E88 and put the stock engine back together and reported on that mod improvement alone. That would be a real easy and economical mod that would put L28 type flow with the shorter stroke L24 block. I would be interested in that result........or maybe someone just put an European rapid advance distributor......nothing else. How did that help. What else?

I've got two L28'S with L-490 grind and one L-24 with the L-480 grind. I've got several E 31 heads that I thought I'd create a cam that required less investment but still gets some pop, but Jon and Mike are right, I would still need new rockers so I wouldn't really be saving a lot. I know Schnieder makes a .460 lift 270 intake and 280 exhaust.......wondering if anyone can comment on that cam's performance. Isky charges $250.00 to set up your own profile and just thought I might create something fun (just mild street). Guy

That's probably pretty good advice. Thanks Guy

You're gonna love the Willwoods!

I'm looking for ideas for building a regrind cam that will work with the stock Z valve train (springs, seals etc.) I know I'm going to make it a .460 lift, but looking for suggestions for duration. I know that Scheinider builds a cam with 270 intake and 280 exhaust and .460 lift......anyone had experience with that cam? I do want a regrind for longevity however. Also, does anyone have experience with Cam Techniques in Florida? They supposedly built the cams for Bob Sharpe. Any ideas on what I should use on this custom cam would be appreciated. It should be nice to pick up some pop without the hassel of springs and seals for a street driven car.

GreenZZZ......Excellent job of illustrating one of the most difficult jobs to be performed on the Z!

Well said Mitchell.......It's much better to pay up for a rust free shell than to pay some one to bring a problem child up to snuff. When we had the big snow storm a couple of weeks ago in Virginia, the first thing that came to my mind was the dreaded increase in insurance claims. But you certainly don't want to rush a good bodyman!

This site might help you. http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/index.htm

2 years so far.......probably six more months to completion.

PM Carl Beck with the info......he tracks the early cars.

Thanks Jon........I appreciate your knowledge and help. Happy New Year! Guy

Is there valve seal clearance problems with an Isky Stage III (.490 lift) cam? Or is that the maximum lift possible without valve seal mods?

http://datsunzgarage.com/ Try this site.......Lots of good info!

I consult with the Z Doctor in Roanoke for the "word" on Datsun heads. He has over 40 years experience and knows what he's doing. I'm building a number of engines right now, just because I like to experiment. The P 79 head (as well as the P90 head which is the same minus the liners and port shapes) can be shaved .080 inches to increase compression. The towers and valve springs must be shimmed .080 as well. He insists that the quench is the key to the performance advantage of the P79 and P90 heads. I recently asked him since I was building another L 28, should I use the e88 (which I have in stock) with L28 intake and exhaust valves or an unshaved P79 head and he said he would go with the P79. The E88 with the L28 valves would be similar to the N42, so I think that would indicate that quench is the advantage. Most people I talk to, don't think that the liners are an issue in the P79. Supposedly when you use a lift of over .460 inches, you must use valve springs for that application. I would be interested to know if anyone has used a Stage III with a .490 lift with stock valve springs and if so, what is the result? The Datsun engines respond good to higher than stock lift.....especially above 3,000 rpm.

I believe .460 inches is the maximum lift that can be used with the stock springs.

Jared.......Incredible job! If you're doing laps at VIR and Road Atlanta, I wonder if you know Dr. Bill Reed in Knoxville .......he holds some lap records on Road Atlanta in a Toyota. Bill just retired from racing. Next time I'm in Knoxville, I've got to see this car. One of our friends has an RB 26 Z. It's just incredible as I'm sure this will be.....can't wait to hear it! Guy

I've never had a bad experience at BD.......It's a great place to buy nuts and bolts .... and they're well illustrated. MSA is still my favorite vendor if I can't find something at Nissan (always my first choice). If you're a member of a Z club, MSA will set up a permanent auto discount of 10%. Over the years that can really add up!

Don't put an L24 cam in an L28 w/o a spray bar.....L24 cams don't have oil holes in the lobes.