Diseazd

You guys blow my mind! All the info is much appreciated......I'll post pics when it's all done. Carl I still haven't got the P79 head back from Doc yet (you wanted to see pictures of the head shaved .080")......will update my L28 build when I get them. Also re much earlier questions re the L28 in my 70, I now have access to a dyno and will let you know results from tests with the SU's with SM needles. Thanks Guy

My dilema.....I've got a set of Panasport 16x7" wheels that worked great with the Eibach and Illuminas on the stock struts but with G/C coilovers, I believe that I'm gonna be limited to how much I can drop the car by the outside fender, not the inside strut. What kind of offet would you look for for this new application with the same size rims?

That explains it.....I'm definitely still living in the 70's........Thanks Arne.

I always thought that positive offset gave you a wider stance, therefore moved the wheel out from the hub.....thanks for clearing that up and answering my question.

All of my Panasports (3 sets) are "0" offset. When the car is lowered there is a lot more room on the inside strut side to go wider with the rim and tire size. How do you go about taking a wheel from "0" offset to say -10mm? Who would you take it to and can it be done?

Pull the steering rack bushing caps and replace the steering rack bushings.....while you're at it, clean and paint the caps and replace the nuts with new cad nuts. We love to find new projects for you! It looks just fantastic!

I appreciate the info......G/C certainly isn't very specific on installation instructions for the coilovers or the camber plate.Obviously someone else has had the same problem as mentioned in Jon's sectioning site. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103860

You can buy a new spray bar from Motorsports......I believe I paid around $65.00.

Thanks for the help....I'll try to post pics of the install. We're also installing Willwood disc brakes F and R. Guy

My three Z's are from Texas, Arizona and a car warehoused and not driven since 79 from Virginia.

Jon....Thanks for your reply....I've got the same camber plate as the red car in your thread. I must say I like it mounted on top better. How would you suggest that I reinforce the shock tower if I choose to mount this way. Also, you wouldn't happen to know of a thread that takes you through step by step on cutting,welding etc.(I like to measure twice and cut once). You mention welding a perch onto the strut, however G/C provided only the threaded sleeve and the adjustable perch,and top hat......am I missing something? Last of all, now that I've made the investment,do you think coilovers are worth the bucks? Thanks for your help....Guy

Adam's right.....I got a 73 dogleg for my 71 resto and it was zinc coated....all parts removed from the 71 were plain metal....the best rust proofing for a Z was growing up in Arizona. The wheel well seams are the most vulnerable rust areas for the Z's. When you attach the outter fender to the inner wheel well, seal the seam good. This prevents water from getting trapped and also running down into the dogleg.

First of all I need to know what pattern and dimensions to cut the shock towers for installation of the camber caster plates......next,they say to leave 5" front and 7" rear on the shock strut from lower bracket to the spring perch, but there is a section to be rewelded above.....how do you determine the length of that portion of the shock strut? Last of all, when you're installing the camber caster plates, do you use any portion of the stock mount, or just the top spring seat supplied by G/C?

Anyone know of a good website on installation of G/C coilovers on the 240Z? The instructions provided by G/C are a little lacking in detail.

Unbelievable! Now you know why Carl says pay up for a rust free car.......restoring an early Z is Plano expensive. Great job so far.

I've never seen a spacer in any of the 10 Z's I've owned.....on the early Z's, the factory did some different mods. By the way your restos are really done right. Great job!!!!

Most chain tensioners don't come with gaskets any more......the machined surfaces seal themselves even w/o sealant.

What you have will work........but on the timing chain it should be mark to mark.

Why are you doing this? Most people go the other way to get rid of the driveshaft angles ( gets rid of the rear end vibration ).

Try Isky Cams. They do excellent work with fast turnaround. www.iskycams.com

I believe that they recommend 79-81 280zx master cylinder.....I just ordered 2 from (believe it or not) REDAT. Nissan no longer offers it and you want to make sure you get one made in Japan(Napco or Tokico). 15/16 is what you're looking for I think.

Not sure although my guess is yes......will find out and let you know.....How's you're paint coming Brian?

Ditto Arne on the 205-55-16's.......205-50-16 will also work but are a smidjet short.....225-50-16 will work and look great, but you may or may not have slight rubbing in certain instances.

Coming soon.....Just saw her today....Chuck finished the dog-leg and is getting ready to start block sanding.....some big changes will be coming soon!

Steve.....Thanks for all of your kind words.......Bruce gets credit for this resto.....wait till you see the 71......it'll blow you away....I'll take credit for that one.