Diseazd

You're hooked!!!!

To remove gunk and stain from my fuel rails, I submersed in pure Muriatic acid ($8.00 per gallon) for 3 minutes, then washed thoroughly in hot soapy water....blow out the rails with air. 35 years of crud disappeared immediately!! I used this procedure on all the plated parts. When they came back from the plate shop they looked like brand new. Whatever you do, don't use steel wool or sand-paper as it will screw up the plate work. Great job. Guy

Thanks Rich.....I'm restoring a Safari Gold 71 also......If done right, it's a beautiful color.......wheels and lowering really set it off! http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25643

Dan......I've bought 4 packs from Aiji and they are beautiful.....I don't know if the numbers on the heads are correct, but you can e mail him to see. I do know that they are Nissan. Here's my latest build http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31001using his stuff. Guy

Rich.......Contact Aiji at datsunspirit.com, he will sell you all new original cad plated bolts (front cover,thermostat,valve cover, exhaust studs, bolts and fat washers, oil pan bolts etc.). The kit has everything packaged and marked. If I remember it was $135.00 including freight. Aiji is a great guy to work with and loves the L series motors. Guy

Just ordered Wilwood front and rear for my 72.........I've got Toyota 4x4 for the front of the 71. I'll comment on the Wilwoods after installation. Details for front and rear and instructions for installation are at www.arizonazcar.com.

Looks great!.......please post better pics.

Chris......You must have had to relearn everything automotive.....2 clutches on one flywheel....I'd love to see the manual on that set-up! The amazing thing is that it's got enough torque to outpull a Cat D-9 but nothing breaks. What an amazing piece of computorized engineering!!!! Guy

Ditto to everything Brandon said......This guy could sell rides at $100.00 each. It was the most exhilirating experience I've ever felt in an automobile. If you ever get the chance to ride in the GTR the way it should be driven, offer to pay for the gas and go for it!!!! Just don't go if you have any heart problems what-so-ever! The Skyline powered 240Z was faster than the GTR only very much more dangerous. If you can "light up the tires" at 80, you can imagine some scarey things that can happen. Thanks Russell for letting me know how inferior my cars are!!!! Guy

Check with Motorsports or whoever you order the timing chain kit from......there is a different part number for 280 versus 240, but I couldn't find anything different. When I asked the difference they said one of the chain guides was slightly different, but I still couldn't see a difference when I compared the new kits.( I was building a 240 and 280 at the time.) Guy

The 280 and 240 timing cover are identical, everything works.....240 Z distributor requires spacer bracket that attaches between distributor base and timing cover (get it off of used 240Z front cover) or from ZBARN.COM. The distributor shaft, cam sprocket,oil pump etc. are all interchangeable.

Steve....Thanks so much for pointing out that thread.....Bruce did an incredible job of restoration....he didn't cut any corners! Bruce is also an incredible person ( I still stay in touch ) The car is absolutely beautiful and has won 1st at every show I've entered it in! Ask Fred (PIZZAMAN). He's a national judge and knows his stuff. I did build a modified L-28 engine for it ( it really hauls the freight now ), but saved the beautiful original engine that Bruce had built. Wait till you see the finished product on the 71 I'm restoring now. It will be be equally impressive. Thanks again Guy.... By the way...I'm the Dad http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31001 http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25643

Jon.....Thanks for the suggestion......I may try them someday, but I get good "POP" from the SU's, and they sure are easy to maintain....right Bruce Palmer?

TRUCE???? Just remember.......you started this by saying I didn't build my own engines.......Me and Five and Dime pride ourselves on building our own engines, and we do a damn good job of it! We also recognize the 1st amendment and if you don't agree with us that's fine.....but don't accuse of of not building our own engines!!!! We'll continue to try to help others on the forum with our ideas and we respect your views......OK? By the way.....great video!!!! Guy

Jon....These are pictures of the last 2 engines we built....now post yours!!!!

Amen!!!!!

Jon.......If you wish to cut corners in building your engines go ahead. Five and and Dime has been taught by his "Old Man" "Diseazd" that if you put $5,000.00 into a "well built engine" you're a "dumb arse" if you cut corners to save $200.00 by not putting new rockers into that engine. You build your "half arse" engines the way you want and we'll build our pristine smokers the way we want!!!! See you on the race track!!!!! "Ojects in my rearview mirror are losing"!!!! Author unknown!

Jon.....Who pulled your chain?......I do all of my own work and have done since 1970. I've built over 20 L series motors including the 5 I currently own (3 L-24's and 2 modified L-28's). If you want to build an engine with old rockers do it........however most good builders recommend reconditioned or new rockers with a cam regrind. You build it your way I'll build it my way!!!!!

Marty.....Changing the cam to a Stage III will give you about 20 h.p. Changing the cam and increasing compression to 10 to 1 will give you give or take about 30 h.p. (flywheel). To do so you need to shave and shim the head. New cams require correct rocker geometry........installation best left to a pro with access to multiple size lash pads. With parts and labor, a correct installation will cost $1,000.00 to $1,200.00 for everything! Well worth it IMO.

Isky will regrind your cam to stage III, provide the proper valve spings (stock is good for only .450 lift max.) lash pads and retainers for $390.00. New rockers are an absolute must for a new regrind ($200.00 from Nissan). The L28 stage III is 10 degrees greater duration than stock with a .490 lift. You really feel this cam come on above 3,000 rpm. Head work helps as well as headers, but increased compression with flat tops does the most for a hotter cam. www.iskycams.com

Could be a P79 or P90......With flat tops, either head would give you about 8.5 to 1. To increase compression,you'll need to get someone to shave and shim the head. .080 cut will give you 10 to 1, but the cam towers and valve springs must be shimmed .080 also.

Motorsports sells the bolt kit for the thermostat housing.

I believe the oil plug is magnetized. It may be attached already!

Pull the car uphill slightly.......pull the oil drain plug and watch it come out!!!!

280 master.......The owner of that motor must have run on grain alcohol......the flask is still attached to the front of the block! Nice paint job!