Diseazd

After soda blasting, don't forget that you have to wipe the metal down with vinegar........At least that's what I've heard.

Sounds like Cafe.

Ever notice the young guys think this thread is great.......The nice thing about being 60 is that we lived the magic! You can paint and restore, but we were there to see 'em in the showroom and smell 'em when they were new. There is no substitute for the excitement we experienced in driving a new Z (mine was a '70 silver with black), or seeing John Morton, Bob Sharp and company blister everything on the track at Road Atlanta (I was on the Esses for every lap in 70 and 71). National champions and still number 1 in my heart. I've got 3 and still can't get enough of these awesome cars!! Thanks Brandon.......payback is Hell!!!!

ZIII.....Is that your 51? I had a friend in Wadley ,Georgia who had a 51, a bearcat and two B-26's. WE used to tease him that all he needed was to find a weak country!!!

E mail Roger at the Z Barn www.zbarn.com. He's honest reasonable and quick to ship. His prices are listed online for most if not all of your items.

Not yet.......each will be tested for warpage,cleaned, new hardened seats, bronze valve guides and a variation of cams etc. To rebuild an E-31 to stock specs will cost $200.00 TO $300.00. To do it right as above $500.00 to $600.00 depending on reground cam, new rockers and springs etc.

My clunk was rear inner control arm bushings. You can check the torque on the four large bolts on the rear control arms. Diffs are hardly ever the problem (there is play in all Z diffs).

I've bought 3 in the last year........original, unrestored.... one at$125.00 and two at $120.00 plus shipping !

Chuck has too many wrecked 911's in his shop (he does my car when he's slack) They're working on the details now.....headlight buckets, front valance and corner pieces. We gave him a passenger side dogleg from an AZ car that he's getting ready to weld in. The seats just went to an A+ upholstery guy. New OEM type seat covers, new foam inserts and strapping and new door panels. Will post pics when we have something of interest. Believe me......I'm getting ansty!

Put a long-handled socket wrench on the front crank bolt.........you should be able to rotate the crank and watch the pistons move........after that you'll be "hooked". Wow......That's a really low number.....Is that the engine from the early Z you bought Randy?

I learn something new every day......Didn't know that the mustache bushings were still available. If factory bushings are used, a machine shop can press in and out the new sleeve encased bushings.

Personal preference, but we painted all of ours a dark charcoal grey........I like the contrast on the front spook. The rear spoiler should be painted the color of the car (IMO). If the front is painted it shows chips. Guy

Right you are Arne......I've got the MSA front "spook" for all 3 Z's. the 70,71 and 72. The MSA BRE type front "spook" is very high quality, light weight and well finished. At only $109.00 you can't beat it!!! I prefer the vented version ( I have 2 vented and 1 non vented) although they both look awesome.

I've got 3 lowered Z's. One has 225-50-16's and the front valence rubs when backing up in a hard turn and bottoms on a hard dip. Another has 205-50-16's which are an inch shorter than the 225's and somewhat narrower......there are absolutely no valence or bottom out problems with the 205's. The last Z is still in restoration, but will have 205-55-16's which are the same height as the 225's but narrower. I haven't run these yet, but believe it will fill the well the best without the problems of the 225's. The white Z in the avatar has the 225's. Guy

GNOSE......Have you got an e mail or telephone number for that diff mount? Guy

Yellow Fever......What kind of tires are they in 215-50-16? I couldn't find a good brand that carried that size. Guy

It was something else 26th Z........Go Jackets!

I was at those Road Race of Champions races in Atlanta.........I couldn't buy a Z fast enough after seeing John Morton burn up Road Atlanta!!!! You should have heard the Z's and 510's coming through the ess's......they were always in front!!!!

Josh.......I like your first idea.....a leak in the front cover behind the water pump (caused by electrolysis). It's easier to check than pulling the head, and a good place to start. Head gasket leaks are many times accompanied by white smoke from the exhaust! Pull the water pump and check her out. If that ain't it.......pull the head....It's usually the #6 cylinder that leaks. Guy

All you need to do is jack up the radiator cap and put a new car under it!!!!:

NOTA 280-You better order some of Todd's(Wolfcreek) CV drive shafts......You're gonna need them! Guy

Ditto Wolfcreek Racing.....they do a nice rebuild at a good price and don't keep them forever!

Landed my dogleg......It was cut from a rust free quarter for $250.00. A place in Oregon called Danny's Datsun. He did a great job of describing, cutting, packing and shipping! Now the only thing that I need to complete my parts inventory is a perfect restorable (dent free) front bumper. Guy

I called BlackDragon......The early bumper is not OEM, it's a knock-off. It may be a good knock-off, but still not original.

Thanks Doug......wonder why the early bumpers (70-72) that BlackDragon sells are so much more expensive....like $499.00 vs $150.00? Has anyone ever purchased the early bumper from BlackDragon, and if so, are they OEM ? If not, are they a good copy? Guy