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Rick....Thanks for your reply....Yes it puzzled me why the 260 bumper was so much cheaper than the 240. Was the quality good? Do you know if was an OEM or a knock-off? Thanks Guy

That is a sweet price to pay........I think you can probably rechrome one for 1/2 that price, but it's tempting to get the real deal. Thanks Doug

The tool is cheap.....buy one!

Anyone know where to buy a new front bumper for a 1971 240Z? Has anyone bought one from Black Dragon and if so, how was it?

When you get them off BlackDragon has new replacements.

Carl.....We understand that, and Chuck was perfectly willing to use Tabco if that was the last resort. However , he preferred the real thing and if I could provide them I wanted to. This car is going to be special as I think you can tell by the restoration thread.(look at the perfect circles in the front radiator panel where he welded the front clip). I agree that an expert body man can save time and of course you know the results will be perfect. I wouldn't use anyone else. He's within weeks of finishing the final body work and laying on paint. You're gonna like what you see. Thanks for all of your help. Guy

I agree with Jon......Unless you really don't feel like it's yours if you don't do it yourself, I would buy someone else's resto, because you'll probably never get your money out of a good resto but remember you can buy someone else's for pennies on the dollar. There have been a dozen or so Z's on ebay this year that were immaculate for under $30,000.00.

Don't worry Arne....If you subtract my owes from Brandon's owes, it's a very large number of net owes for him! Guy

Roger at the Z Barn. www.ZBARN.com By the way, when you get the new one, you just light the rubber bushings on fire with a torch and she will burn up like a flare. Do it away from civilization as it makes a mess! Wire brush the inside mess and your new Teflon will fit as new. Good Luck

There is a metal sleeve that was pressed out that should have stayed! You're supposed to burn out the bushing with a blow torch and leave the metal sleeve in. I am not aware if there is any way to fix it short of a new mustache bar. At least they are cheap and readilly available. Guy

Thanks Moonpup......I saw that and would love to chop it, but $650.00 is a little steep for a dogleg. The whole panel however is a steal for someone needing the whole quarter. Guy

Mike....Definitely go poly (IMO). Just make sure when installing the bushings that you coat them with silicon grease, otherwise they will squeak on you. The poly on the rear inner control arms will also help eliminate the dreaded rear clunk!

It could possibly be bad bushings in the distributor shaft. Grasp the rotor while still in the distributor and shake back and forth for play. Also, did you check for broken point connection (small wire in distributor) they get pinched and can short out. That would be a $1.00 fix. Let us know where you stand. Guy

Jay.....Your problem is most likely adjustment in the choke cables. Get a buddy to pull the choke lever back while you are looking under the carbs to make sure the chokes are engaging properly. You shouldn't have to "pump her up " each time she sits! Also as the "Just SU's" tape will show you, make sure they are closing when you push the lever forward!

Sorry Jimmy.....I missed the GTR......you win 2nd!!!!!!

JimmyZ.......You win the contest hands down!!!! I've got to have one for my garage......awesome!

Bruce is dead on.....you could end up with a leaky exhaust gasket.

A late air box, a late console.......If the engine isn't original, why would anyone spend the money on a very expensive resto? This is a $1500.00 parts car! IMO

OZCONNECTION........Not at all....I'm trying all kinds of combos myself. I'm building my third engine....the L28 has a stage III cam, head shaved and shimmed .080. An L24, E 31 with a stage II with 1mm oversized intake and an L26 exhaust (bored .040 over) and finally the L24,E31 with stock valves and a stage I cam ( bored .020 over). What I've found out is I thought I wanted low end, but the top end is awfully fun too !!!!! The stage I should be a low end car....Stay in touch on your findings. the L series engine never ceases to amaze me. Guy

No problem........it's a fun car to work on. Guy

Bob....With the head off you can't rotate the crank because your timing chain is jammed with the special tool that keeps it from falling into the oil pan......but...if you remove the head with the #1 piston TDC compression stroke, the pointer will be at "0" and your rotor will be at 9:00 or thereabouts pointing in the vicinty of the #1 distributor wire. Yes you are right! Then you have to set timing at about 10 degrees BTDC on the distributor using a timing light after everything (head etc.) is reassembled.

Thanks Mike....I love the Z's in white! Randy...yours is looking great. Guy

You would be 100% correct!

I believe he said he had the oil pump gear installed (not the oil pump) and I assume when he said everything was off except the crank and pistons, that he means the front cover as well. The #1 piston should be at the top of it's stroke (crank key at 12:00) ,with crank sprocket timing mark at approximately 4:00.

Doing things 3 times is what we all do........Z's are a continuous learning project!