Diseazd

If he installed the wood block properly and only lacks 1/8 inch and everything has stayed the same , slight pressure on the cam sprocket should solve the problem. It's certainly worth a try!

Taking the cover off is the very last resort...........The tensioner cannot come out but so far if your wood block is installed. While you are holding the sprocket (with dowel pin hole just below the dowel pin on cam) get a buddy to put a long screwdriver etc. through one of the upper pulley holes. Rest one end somewhere safe on the head and pry the pulley up till it slides in the dowell. No major force should be required. What has happened is the chain has slackened slightly to allow a small movement in tensioner piston. The pry bar will tighen the chain causes a retreat of the piston and the cam sprocket will slide right on! Then drink an ice cold beer! Guy (we've all been there)

If you buy from your dealer there will be no shipping charge (if you pick up at the dealer).

Sounds like a solenoid not engagimg properly. The solenoid kicks in a small gear that engages the flywheel, then backs out when the key is released and the engine is running. It's no big deal unless it continues. A new starter is 49.95 plus p&h from Black Dragon.

Paul.....Bingo you got it.....I took out the headlight fuses and put them back in. Everything works perfect.....must have been a little corrosion on the fuse. Thanks for everyone's help. Now everything is perfect!

Thanks Stephen......It's a mystery to me too! In 30 years I've never seen it.....I thought I had hooked up something wrong. It's always a learning experience! Guy

Try Bruce Palmer at Z Therapy......They sell reconditioned Air Boxes......Everything they do is AAA+......even if he does drive a station wagon!

Thanks again Nissanman.......I had an old voltage regulator that I plugged in and the problem seems to be solved. I've never had one go bad before....any thoughts on what would kill the voltage regulator? The headlight issue seems to be unrelated (as you guessed ). I appreciate your assistance as always. Good Luck! Guy Jonnyrock- You're right.....the extra draw probably worked the belt harder and heated up! Thanks Guy

Thanks for your reply Nissanman.......It is the ampmeter on the dash....It's reading all the way to the right at higher RPM and stays there till I go to idle. I installed a new alternator and then went back to the old alternator with the same result. I have a new voltage regulator here I could try........could that be the problem? All connections are as were before the rebuild.

Just rebuilt my L28 and put a new alternator. Hooked everything back up as before and now my voltmeter is pegged all the way to the +. Also my left headlight is so dim as to barely see it. Furthermore the belt even though it was tightened properly was squealing like it was overworking. I put the old alternator back on....still had the problem. I believe the alternator was hot also, but that could be engine temp. What's the cause?

Steve Yes we drilled out the front for the mechanical pump(more reliable). All bolts are Nissan new....at least almost all. All parts are new or remanufactured. It ain't cheap to go that route, but it sure is puuurrrdy! The fuel rail came from Zeddsavers.

Carl I'm still running the stock needles but Doc says for the L28 the SM's will do better. I'll tinker with the two and post some results. This is the first performance motor I've built and let me tell you........it sounds like a million dollars! I'm modifying the 240z stock (MSA) exhaust by having the machine shop build me a downpipe flange and weld it onto the 240 downpipe (I hope the angle and pickup on the stock manifold are pretty close for the two). When I get it back, I'll be able to put her on the road. You can feel the muscle and rev in this engine........ even in the garage! Doc says it should produce 225 h.p. and be a 13.9 quarter mile. I've been in love with these cars since I got my first Z in 1970 and that certainly ain't going away! Thanks for all your help on the Forum and I'll keep everyone posted on this car and the 71. Guy

Doc built the head.....I did the engine. I'm also building a hot L24 for the 71 restoration. I've built maybe 15 or so L series motors over the years! I'd love to do a video if my son ZERO Z can do it (I can't) because this motor sounds like a million dollars! I just think the L series motor is awesome! Right Eiji?

Yesterday we dropped the new L 28 into the 70 Z! It has an F 54 block with the P 79 head.The beast was shaved .080, shimmed with a reground Stage III Isky cam! We used stainless swirl valves and SM needles. When we fired her up with open headers it sounded like Road Atlanta! Can't wait to get the new exhaust hooked up to feel how she runs. Guy <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2491514066/" title="IMG_8681 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2339/2491514066_d58c275804_b.jpg" width="683" height="1024" alt="IMG_8681" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2491513550/" title="IMG_8679 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3008/2491513550_4be8d27560_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_8679" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2490697391/" title="IMG_8684 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2132/2490697391_5315f7518a_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_8684" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2605986529/" title="IMG_9168 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3261/2605986529_7ff1a99409_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_9168" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2605986129/" title="IMG_9166 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3213/2605986129_979ed659ec_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_9166" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2606814514/" title="IMG_9165 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3017/2606814514_eb2f0b4c31_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_9165" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2606814220/" title="IMG_9163 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3033/2606814220_61fd4d3d7f_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="IMG_9163" /></a>

That's not rust.....it's an undercoating overspray! I'm aware of the link, but this car will never see soapless water.

The new clip welded in. Brand new OEM fenders and hood. The Arizona rear quarter completed! It won't be long now until the sanding,priming and paint goes on. This will be a concours Safari Gold Z! Another Z is saved from the Boneyard. The 240Z is truly a "real cool ride"!

Call 'em.......maybe they have a pick up service!

DAS Auto shipping does a superb job (Dependable Auto Shippers). Ditto on taking the stripes off! Beautiful Z!

My son shipped his 510 hood today by Greyhound from Richmond to N.Y. for $47.00. He called the local Ford dealer and asked that they save him a new replacement hood box( the dealer body shop ). They had him a nice box with styrafoam holders in 4 or 5 days( no charge). Heck of a lot easier than making a box!

Marty - I'm not sure why my Bodyman doesn't like them, but I do know he's a perfectionist and indicated that the fit wasn't good. I think a lot of guys on the forum have used them (made them fit) with some success.......you could check out some of the previous links to dogleg repair. Hell the dogleg on the car right now looks pretty good to me, but it's not OK with Chuck (and I want this car to be perfect!). Guy

This car is in need of a passenger side perfect dogleg (not Tabco) If anyone in AZ or CA has a perfect right side dogleg, I'd love to hear from you! Guy

Looking for a passenger side dog leg off of an Arizona or California Z (1971). Need it to be absolutely rust free. Anyone having access to such a dog leg, please PM me. I have many parts to trade or will trade for US Dollars. Please e mail ASAP as my body man is ready to roll. We have Tabco and he wants the real deal! Thanks Guy

I just ordered my 4th set of Z Therapy SU's. They're worth every nickel! They come back working and looking better than new(not to mention the simplicity of the SU carb). Bruce have you mailed my 3 screw carbs yet? Guy

Stock is fine! ITM makes a good cast replacement as well as Silva-lite or just have your stock pistons checked out and cleaned. NAPA sells Perfect Circle rings and Clevite bearings.......both are top quality! Stock sizes will be no problem. If you go .030 over ,expect to pay $50-$75 for overbore $85 to $100 for rings and another $80-$100 for bearings and $200 for cast pistons.

As you can clearly see my son as always is firing on two less cylinders! Guy