Diseazd

Bart........Curious where you sent your hinges to be rebuilt? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks Guy

I put up pictures in my garage of my two favorite Z Heroes in the world. Z Doctor of Roanoke (RIP) and Eiji Hosomi of Datsun Spirit. Merry Christmas all!

Not only is it color, but Safari Gold color!

FWIW, I bought a pair of new 240Z front Konis to replace a blown Tokico in my rear Ground Control sectioned coilovers. I had the same gap as shown above and had to return the pair. The Konis are taller than the Tokicos and the struts were sectioned to fit Tokicos. Many thanks to my friend Jim Karst for selling me some nice used Tokicos, or I would have had to add a section to my strut (PITA). In the future, I would suggest shock tubes err on the side of too short, not too long (much easier to add a spacer to center the shock in the strut).

Quote......“Go grab the "next best" 5 speed. Shifts fine on the floor, all gears turn the output shaft. Stuff it in the car, go for a drive, can't get it in 5th! Just grinds. Oh crap. “ I had a rebuilt 5 speed that would just grind going into 5th. Eiji said it’s because I had the wrong shifter. Is that correct Jim? Do the 5 speeds (ZX) use a different shifter to get into 5th gear. I never attempted to rebuild a tranny either, but I never had any problems with a 4 speed B tranny, so I gave him my two 5 speeds and I only have to shift 4 times in my Z’s. LOL.

Looking at these pics it makes me so glad I don’t live in Canada (nothing to do with the enthusiasts). Cool car, something about the 510, but your driving season is so short. Makes me shiver just looking at that unheated garage.

Sorry Site.....I don’t know the part number....I depend on Motorsports or ZcarDepot to get it right.

Good plan.....I like the 2x10’s. Can’t ever have too many motors!

According to Dave, I have the new ones (orange axles). I bought them in June.....you can see they are orange on my first post (100 mm).

Dave.....Thanks for the update on your FutoFab CV axles. I certainly can attest to the fact that I have had zero problems with mine. Also, installation was a breeze and now, if I ever need to remove them, it is a ten minute job (just remove the 6 allen head bolts and you are loose). I have no noise and with well over 200 horses at the wheels, I feel like the strength is a big improvement over the old u joints. I guess there must have been some issues with the old WolfCreek design, but as far as I’m concerned, you’ve improved the product to perfection. The only thing I would suggest is some of your torque specs seem too high for the bolt sizes.....I wouldn’t want to break a bolt. Guy

Really nice sequence Charles.........all those 70’s Datsuns are so damned cool!

Call Motorsports......Give them the part number of the Exedy Pressure Plate you bought. Then, tell them to send you the correct collar for that clutch. BTW......the throw out bearing is not your problem.....throwout bearings for all 240Z’s, 280Z’s and 280ZX’s are exactly the same.......seems your problem is the wrong collar....IMO.

If these numbers stack up, you are good to go. Like Zed Head said.......it is probably the wrong collar.......plenty of threads on this subject.

This is exactly why the 280 damper bores were machined back far enough so you could feel the groove receive the woodfuff key. If you are off just a tiny bit, it can push the key through the oil slinger. So many ways to screw up a good motor by one mistake......what a waste! BTW Capt.....you want a tight fit on your damper.....some race dampers require up to 250lbs. of torque to install.

Yep......all car nuts. This car will be my favorite yet of many, many great builds!

Not sure about these two questions Capt, but would assume you need longer bolts for the flywheel versus the flex plate. I am sure that you need to install the brass bushing in the rear of the crankshaft though.........the autos didn’t have that bushing installed.

Hope this helps.....don’t forget the cotter pin!

Doing my part to keep our roads safe!

BTW....You don’t have to disconnect the choke cables to pop up the nozzle......literally a 3 minute fix if that’s the problem and it sounds like it is. Just stick your hand under each carb and push up the nozzle....you’ll feel it pop up if that’s the problem.

Kinda hard to believe a Cessna turbo would work on a straight six. My guess is it’s a Crown Turbo shown in the early “How to Modify” books. I always wondered how those early bolt on turbos performed. My guess is they boosted horse power and caused severe rust!!! ?

I agree with Site and Blue. You can reach under the carbs and push up on the nozzle. You’ll feel it snap back. If it is hanging up, it’ll cause very erratic idle and will blacken your plugs on those three cylinders. You’ll have to do this every time you choke the engine. Those nozzles are famous for binding when linkages aren’t aligned perfectly.

What is it? 280Z dash and console......I would guess no matter what it is, there is easily $350.00 worth of parts!

Beautiful work Jim!

Welcome back Will....we’ve missed you!

Really cool project. Does the ports on your intake manifold match up with the intake ports on the head? Seems to me when I was at Eiji’s shop, the Jenveys needed work on my head to match the ports on the intake.