Diseazd

I love the simplicity of my Unisyn and it seems to me if you check and double check, it is pretty darned accurate. Just my opinion.

Yes....Another of my favorite colors too!

She likes 918 and that’s good enough for me!

Here’s mine less one!

Well played......

IMO, I would stick with your stock clutch with your build....nothing stronger needed. I installed a Stage I Exedy Racing clutch in one of my Stroker Motors and replaced it with a stock 240mm clutch 1000 miles later (I run stock 240mm flywheels). It was a PITA to drive in town with the Stage I. You probably shouldn’t take your flywheel much below 20 lbs. and make sure you have someone reputable do the cut. I run stock 240mm flywheels (23 lbs.) in both of my Strokers and love em. You’ll get many opinions on flywheel weights and this is my humble opinion.

Use a 280ZX block....bore it .040 over, use P79 flat top pistons, use the modern P79 head or N42 head (not the E88 that you have). If you go P79 head, shave and shim it .080 and install a Isky Stage III Cam. Put your numbers matching engine on a stand in the closet. Now you’ve got a fun engine!

Well said Charles, but 300 hp is probably more like 20k plus....... 275C8E79-2576-48A6-8522-7995889F6CF7.MOV

Same car........which one you gonna want to borrow?

I agree whole heartedly......in the 70’s, these cars were driven off the show room floor and immediately began the transition to being personalized to become a car to be driven. Stock restored Z’s are cool to look at, but if you have one beside it with some goodies to bring it up to snuff, you are going to climb in the modified Z every time. In the 70’s, you noticed the lowered, spoilered, wider wheels and tuned exhaust Z’s with a lot more respect than the stock cars. John Morton and Pete Brock and Bob Sharp were responsible......these cars are easy to modify and a blast to drive hard.......they are all cool cars, just some cooler than others!

I don’t think Nissan could have designed an uglier rear ram rod bumper than the silver car in the first post. Ralph Nader would be proud!

I’ve lost track too and I’m his Dad. I’ve raised a monster, but this is a really cool car.....when I think about, they have all been really cool cars.

No Rich.....I won’t make this ZCON, but hope to meet you sooner or later. We just missed each other in Atlanta last year. Best of luck this year to you and Jayhawk....If you don’t win the big one, I’ll call foul! Regards Guy

No Jayhawk, I was talking about the other Z’s thinking about entering Stock Class......they are the ones that need to slap a set of Panasports or Watanabees on and go for Street Modified. I think this car is pretty well a “shoe in” for that big piece of shiny wood and brass......good luck.

Won’t be too hard to confirm that it’s real!

I don’t think I’d want to compete in the class (“Stock”) that this car will be in at Zcon this year. You may want to throw on a set of after market wheels and go “Street Modified”. Congrats on a perfect Z Rich. How does it feel to be “The Best in the World” in something? Guy

Thanks Blue...never was too good in history. It does look like a very restorable Series I though, and good shells are getting harder to find.

Looks like a solid Series I to me. A new dash is a great start to a really nice resto. Glad I have no garage space, but Steve, this one could be a nice resto for about 20M in addition to the 15M. IMO However it is missing that 2400 valve cover.

I didn’t know that you could take 2mm off of an N47 head. Are you sure you got valve clearance with an .080 cut?

I love this site!

3012 are the same as 3015.....according to an older thread. I’d love to have those two.

3015 or 3016 are the serial numbers for front and back.

Thanks Jim.....front or back....doesn’t matter.....just knock off the spacer on the rear.

I have a blown rear Tokico shock in my Ground Control sectioned coilovers. Problem is, Tokico shocks are no longer offered. I ordered a pair of Koni yellows for 240Z front ( front shocks are used in the rear of sectioned GC 240Z coilovers). The Konis are about 3/8 inches too tall and the gland nut won’t engage the threads in the top of the strut tube. If anyone has a Tokico strut laying around, or knows where I could find one, I would love to buy it. I can get by with one, but would like to replace both rears. Thanks Guy

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