Diseazd
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Everything posted by Diseazd
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I don’t recall bottoming out at any time. May be just a bad seal or something. The only way I found out, there was a rattling sound coming from the strut at low speeds. I’ve never blown a strut before, at least not that I knew of......I’ll replace both rears with Konis....don’t think Tokicos are available anywhere.
No idea why it was blown. I would guess no more than 5000 miles.
Pulled a blown shock out of my driver side rear coilover. Guess I’ll have to go back with Konis unless someone knows a Tokico source.
I went to Georgia Tech.....tried M.E., but when I got to Fluid Mech and Thermodynamics, I switched to Industrial Management. I needed to work on my selling skills ?
I love your attention to detail Capt. Did you go to engineering school or just have the knack? That coming from me, who never even reads the instructions! ?
Right Madkaw......I used Stage III Isky Cams in mine. .160 to .180 lash pads for that set up.
Great illustration Site.....and I spent hours in Roanoke with the Z Doctor. He built all of my P79 heads....he’s the one that originally came up with the set up. It tricks a P79/P90 into stock chain configuration with a 10:1 c/r. As far as advancing the cam sprocket 4 degrees to make up for an .080 cut without shims Capt., I think if that worked, it would have been done that way. I think Jeff G figured out some offset bushing for the cam sprocket that eliminated shims for his race car. I miss Doc!
I would suggest as little as possible to clean the head up. I’ve heard .030 inches is about all you can cut without affecting the timing. Maybe someone else knows the exact number. .010 to .015 is where I would try to stop. Guy
Absolutely......and maybe a .040 overbore with new flat tops. Don’t stop there, go ahead and shave the P79 .080 and jack up the cam towers and valve springs using the early longer 280 swirl valves. Don’t forget to ship the old cam to Isky to make her a .490 lift stage III. It’s fun!
No Site..... all 240Z trannies and 280Z and ZX trannies are the exact same dimensions. All can use either a 240Z clutch or a 280Z clutch or in the case of a 240mm flywheel, they would use a 2 plus 2 clutch. The only thing that affects the collar, is which clutch you use. 240Z clutch.....use 240Z collar. 280Z clutch....use 280Z collar. 2plus2 clutch uses 2plus2 collar. I like to use 240Z clutches in all my Z’s except the ones with 240mm flywheel (2plus2 collar). That way, I keep everything simple. If you get a new clutch, just ask for the collar that fits that clutch. I would use Motorsports because you can talk to someone and make sure they ship you a 240Z clutch, 240Z collar and throw out bearing as a package. All throwout bearings are the same for all three clutches.
Yes.....I reached out to Jay at Ground Control. He’s checking to see if they have a couple extra Tokicos. Just need to have plan B if they don’t. I’m sure that there are many folks here that know the answer. I’ve heard rear MR2 shocks in the front and front 240Z struts in the rear, but would like to confirm that before ordering.
Hi Charles...As far as I tell, they no longer have the Tokicos available, so I’ll have to use Konis. They are different size shocks. I believe they use the 240Z front shock in the rear and an MR2 rear shock in the front, but before I spend $650.00, just want to make sure that is correct.
I’m looking to install new shocks in my Ground Control Coilovers. They were built to spec as per the included instructions. I’m not sure what size to order for the front and rears. Anyone help me with what shocks to order? Thanks
You are right wheee! No parking brake. I park on level ground in 1st gear, and if I ever lose my brakes while tearing down the highway, I’m just gonna yell “Wheee! “
Steve.....Hahaha.....I meant it would add $2,500.00 to the restoration cost......still a good deal in my opinion.....looks to be fairly rust free and early cars with the 240Z and vented hatch door bring premiums.
Wheel bearing is solid. The more I do, the more I think I’m trying to fix something that ain’t broke. When both wheels are off the ground and it’s free wheeling, maybe an inch of play is normal. I replaced the diff, the half shafts and then again, the stub axle. There is no play when driving, so I think I’m gonna bet that a little play is normal when both wheels are off the ground. BTW....I absolutely love the FutoFab CV axles, and talk about easy to remove them when I wanted to pull the stub axle......a breeze!
Still got some movement with the metallic sound you hear in the new video. It’s a new diff and CV axles. I did use the stub axles (that go into the diff) from the old diff. I’m stumped. Anyone think it could be play in the stub axle since that’s the only thing used from the previous set up? 9147EB1C-1EED-4AD1-AFF6-615F33446E3C.MOV
Add $2,500.00
That one won’t last long......looks like an easy Resto.....nice dash too if it’s not a cap.
Fenders and hood are Nissan parts bought in 2012. All were black.
........and you took “Paul’s Car” across the finish line to Z history. Great work Mike. Regards Guy
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