Diseazd

Resurrected Classics has the new 3 piece set listed for $350.00. They guarantee their products. I’ve bought 3 sets of hub caps from them and they are “perfect”.

Isky recommends .175 inch lash pads for the Stage III .490 lift camshaft. I always center the wipes and have found .160 to .170 inch pads work with the Stage III cams.

Like everyone has said before…….you must be at TDC of the compression stroke…..lobes up. My guess is if the car has been running in the past, and hasn’t been taken apart since, your distributor is probably correctly oriented. Looks like you are 180 degrees out……TDC exhaust stroke. Set it TDC compression stroke and your rotor should be pointing approximately toward the little mark on your distributor cap (number 1). Then if you follow the timing firing order going counter clockwise, you should be running and driving.

You’ve made your point @dutchzcarguy. However, you guys “Don’t know your arse from a hole in the ground!” 😂 A Finn Struggling with English !!!.mov

Here’s a quick look at that head. https://share.icloud.com/photos/0cdSGhHLbHmLHyOdED8S4286A

zKars 1,914 Replied: February 24 How’s it going? Good to hear from you. All the brake line fittings are M10x1.0 including the one ones on the bottom of the master. The lines them selves are 3/16 tubing. I use the copper nickel line and buy it from thestopshop.com, usually through Amazon. Jim @zKars and @Patconrecently helped me get the materials to do the job right. Make sure you use or order the M10x1.0 fitting on the copper nickel tubing. You can buy a bender or carefully bend em by hand. I had my machine shop make me a couple that I bent into shape. You can also buy straight lines already made in different lengths and bend those. You need to make sure they are square to the female receiver to make a secure leak free joint.

This is the tool I use to pull the retaining clip, pull out the clevis and put both back in. It’s a life saver! BTW, it a fishing hook degouger

Resurrected Classics shows rear bumpers for $375.00. I think they are in Georgia too.

Chuck is amazing. This car now looks like new. Seeing Inline6’s silver Z pushed me over the top. Chuck has now done 3 of my Z’s and they are incredible! Add this to the Gold and Orange Z.

It’s perfect! I can’t tell where he blended it. He spent hours mixing paint to match. I’m blown away. Helps that he buffed original paint out.

My 73 original paint Z had a stripe (body molding) on both sides. I just don’t like it ……breaks up the lines. Even though the car is all original paint, I said “What the heck…..lose it!” My painter is the best, so I gave it to Chuck to work his magic. Whatcha think? He buffed out the roof, tailgate and other original paint and the match was perfect. I love silver Z’s. IMG_7055.mov

I’ll remember him for sponsoring the best ZCON ever. Savanah, Georgia……air conditioned car show and a race track 500 yards away! Bob and Carol Sharp, Carl Beck and Jimbo and a host of others.

Also saved part numbers for all three…

280Z clutch and part number…..29 mm.

That makes this chart even more worthless. The Type B 4 speed in the chart shows 29 mm and is correct for the 280Z clutch……... 47 mm total. The 240Z collar is 10 mm shorter at 19 mm…… 37 mm total with throw out bearing. The throw out bearing is 18 mm. None of the collars in the chart have that 19 mm measurement for the 240Z clutch. Go figure!

Good job kcpope. I just remembered I have kept two collars with throw out bearings attached for future acknowledgement. One for 280Z and one for 240Z. I just went out and measured. The 280Z collar with throw out bearing is 47mm and the 240Z with throw out bearing is 37mm. This needs to be logged for future reference. The 2plus2 / turbo is in a league of its own. I didn’t keep one of those.

Wow……The S30 Datsuns are incredibly beautiful. This restoration is incredible in itself. Great job @Inline6…..I’ll bet your shirts all hang in same direction in your closet! 😂 It just doesn’t get any better than this restoration…… Perfection!

I agree…..That chart of collars seems worthless to me. What we need is a picture of three collars. 240z, 280Z and 280Z 2plus2 or turbo. Thats why I always ask Motorsports to send me the one of three that I need. I don’t want to pull a tranny but once. 🥳

It’s really very simple. If you are sure you have a 225mm flywheel, you can use a 240Z clutch and 240Z collar or a 280Z clutch with a 280Z collar……your choice. Call Motorsports and tell them you want a 240Z clutch and a 240Z collar and throwout bearing. They will send you the correct combo. My 280 motors with 225mm flywheels all run the 240Z cluches. I like them best.

Unwrapped my brand new gas tank from S30. It looks fantastic!

I have Exedy 240Z clutches (Made in Japan) in all five of my L28 Z’s and they are perfect. Do what you want, but if you order an Exedy pressure plate and disc and specify 240Z, you can then order the 240Z collar and throw out bearing from Motorsports and if you have any questions, those guys know what they are doing and can help you. They probably have the Exedy clutches too. If you do that, you can forget measuring…..you’ll reinstall with confidence! PS Make sure to confirm the size of your flywheel is a 225 mm (the facing looks awful wide in your pic) or you’ll need to order the clutch and collar for a 2 plus 2. Motorsport sales folks can help you with that too. 👍

This photo is correct.

I agree with Charles. If the throw out bearing is reversed it will fail. The rounded side should contact the fingers not the flat side. I had a machine shop install one in reverse and the bearing froze up and welded to the fingers. The wear on your fingers is not right……the PO reversed the throw out bearing. If I were you, I would buy a new Exedy clutch, disc, collar, bearing and pilot bushing, then you will know it’s right. Just make sure you know what flywheel you’re running, and make sure the rounded side ( not the flat side) of the bearing contacts the fingers. 240Z or 280Z pressure plates (225mm) are a different bolt pattern than a 2plus2 (240mm) flywheel.

Count me in too….NSX mid engine. 😵‍💫