Diseazd

Old picture Cliff......there’s 2 Z’s under those blocks now.

Got Chuck to remove the passenger side mirror from my white 70........it’s always bugged me!

Nice!

A modified shifter will solve the problem.....

Great choice.....right Jim Arnett?

Not true.....5 years later....still perfect....oil and gas have had no effect......just wipe off.

If you look inside your valve cover, you can answer your contamination issue.....yes it will contaminate your valve cover. VHT is a high temp paint, although the valve cover doesn’t get that hot, I still prefer a higher temp tolerant paint. I use aluminum color.

Here’s three that I did that way.....

Bead blasting will make it look great....especially if you you spray it with a VHT aluminum paint. Just make very sure he screws it down tightly to a piece of wood (with a gasket) and tape up the vent on top to keep all contamination out of the valve cover.

Just saying.....if it runs cool when moving, but overheats when at stop lights or just idling, it indicates that your air flow is adequate will moving, but not while idling (fan clutch). If it overheats while moving, you’ll need to look further.

Does the engine run normal when driving (moving) down the highway?

Feels like a fan clutch to me. Had the same problem with my Stroker....new clutch was defective....put another clutch in.....works perfect.

Where did you buy them Moelk and how much?

That’s my boy! This is going to be a really fun father/son project. Finally got the kid back in a Nissan/Datsun. I’ve only built the L Series engines.....looking forward to playing with a twin cam beast. You’re going to like this car........ I promise! BTW JSM....I joined the site March 2007....I see you joined in April 2007 Guess that makes me your Senior eh?

I would look at your fan clutch like Site suggested. I put a brand new one in my new Stroker motor. The engine ran cool when moving, but at a stop light or idling, she would over heat. I replaced it with an old one and it solved the problem. She now idles dead center.

http://www.arizonazcar.com/coilover.html This might help....

Thanks Cliff. Since you are so far away, I'll have to share them with some of my other friends......

Funny you should mention boiling some jumbos Cliff. We are getting ready to boil some jumbos too. Millie will be watching.....not eating the procedure!

I would guess you've got at least one, maybe two stuck float valves. When a float valve is stuck open, it feeds gas into the air cleaner housing.....just like your picture It's normal for the float chambers to move.

I agree Capt. ......all of my Z's idle at 1000 rpm when warmed up.....not so when first cold started. Modern engines seem to have a sensor to adjust for this.

I'm pretty sure you can still buy em new from Nissan. Motorsports should have em too.

I've got a new Rebello set that you use with your stock inner and the Rebello outer spring and a stock retainer that you can use with up to a .500 lift cam and up to .220 lash pad. Also have a new Isky regrind Stage II .485 lift. I use all Stage III.

I've done it twice....fairly easy swap....hope this helps.

Thanks for pointing that out Zed Head. Yes, I'm using mine as a snubber only (factory mount on the bottom).....however, if you limit the movement of the diff and therefore the stress on the rubber stock mount, I would think the stock mount would probably last forever!

I just used the simple bump stop with the R/T mount. I used the stock Nissan mount underneath (with the rubber cushion). There is nothing to cause any vibration with the R/T mount with either bump stop you use, because the only contact that's made is when you are torqueing through the gears, and the diff rises up and is stopped by whichever bump stop you use. The lower mount is damped with a rubber cushion to prevent vibration, because it is connected (bolted to the diff) at all times.