Diseazd

Feels like a fan clutch to me. Had the same problem with my Stroker....new clutch was defective....put another clutch in.....works perfect.

Where did you buy them Moelk and how much?

That’s my boy! This is going to be a really fun father/son project. Finally got the kid back in a Nissan/Datsun. I’ve only built the L Series engines.....looking forward to playing with a twin cam beast. You’re going to like this car........ I promise! BTW JSM....I joined the site March 2007....I see you joined in April 2007 Guess that makes me your Senior eh?

I would look at your fan clutch like Site suggested. I put a brand new one in my new Stroker motor. The engine ran cool when moving, but at a stop light or idling, she would over heat. I replaced it with an old one and it solved the problem. She now idles dead center.

http://www.arizonazcar.com/coilover.html This might help....

Thanks Cliff. Since you are so far away, I'll have to share them with some of my other friends......

Funny you should mention boiling some jumbos Cliff. We are getting ready to boil some jumbos too. Millie will be watching.....not eating the procedure!

I would guess you've got at least one, maybe two stuck float valves. When a float valve is stuck open, it feeds gas into the air cleaner housing.....just like your picture It's normal for the float chambers to move.

I agree Capt. ......all of my Z's idle at 1000 rpm when warmed up.....not so when first cold started. Modern engines seem to have a sensor to adjust for this.

I'm pretty sure you can still buy em new from Nissan. Motorsports should have em too.

I've got a new Rebello set that you use with your stock inner and the Rebello outer spring and a stock retainer that you can use with up to a .500 lift cam and up to .220 lash pad. Also have a new Isky regrind Stage II .485 lift. I use all Stage III.

I've done it twice....fairly easy swap....hope this helps.

Thanks for pointing that out Zed Head. Yes, I'm using mine as a snubber only (factory mount on the bottom).....however, if you limit the movement of the diff and therefore the stress on the rubber stock mount, I would think the stock mount would probably last forever!

I just used the simple bump stop with the R/T mount. I used the stock Nissan mount underneath (with the rubber cushion). There is nothing to cause any vibration with the R/T mount with either bump stop you use, because the only contact that's made is when you are torqueing through the gears, and the diff rises up and is stopped by whichever bump stop you use. The lower mount is damped with a rubber cushion to prevent vibration, because it is connected (bolted to the diff) at all times.

The answer is no .......you are confusing the solid diff mount (under the diff) with the R/T diff mount (above the diff) which just replaces the strap.....which stretches with age. The R/T mount just puts a bump stop above the diff to limit the upward movement (clunk) of the diff. It lasts forever and is the way it should have been designed from the beginning.

BTW.....Blue, I hope you can make ZCON this Fall......Atlanta will be a great destination......hope everyone can make it.....Steve will do a great job I'm sure!

I wonder what the story is on this engine? Those pistons are unique.....who made them (cast not forged) and why the light valve spring retainers? Shaved head for compression, but a stock cam? Why a stock cam, and are you sure it is stock? Was this a transplant from a 70's race car? Looks like someone drove the hell out of it.....maybe raced it. Very interesting....wish it could talk.

Restoration is so cool. Blue is right.....send that cam off to Isky and it'll come back like new. Wish we could send ourselves off and have us come back like new.....

I did the same thing with my first Z back in the early 70's. Beautiful, but a PITA to keep clean.

I like my 205-60-15's......Goodyear Eagles now.

Nice!! So this ain't your first rodeo.

Wow....Very impressive....I love the speed of the restoration....just enough Resto mod......just enough pure stock.....this car will look great and be a blast to drive!

It doesn't matter which tranny you have.....early 4 speed, early 5 speed or 280ZX tranny. They all have the exact same dimensions. The only thing you have to be concerned with is the clutch pressure plate that you use. If you use a 240Z pressure plate, use the 240Z collar.....If you use the 280Z or ZX pressure plate, use the 280Z or ZX collar. If you have a 240 mm flywheel, you'll have to use the 2+2 (turbo) collar. It's that simple.....tranny doesn't matter....clutch pressure plate determines the collar you use.

Good question Captain.....I measured mine with the pressure plate on the bench (not bolted up)......it was 92 mm and works perfect.

The "S.S. Alabama Zama".