Diseazd

I believe my guy was Russian......

Madkaw meant to say Guy did it the other way (twice). I built two motors with the F54 block P79 shaved (.080) head, swirl valves, Isky Stage III and other goodies bored .040 over with the L24 crank. Wow.....what a great set up....but probably a different feel than the L28 crank in a 24 block. Put as much cam as you can....Stage III....you won't regret it! This damper is serious.....Datsun Spirit can fix you up.

Guess you could say that the vintage Scarab is kinda like the current Singer Porsches......take a good platform and try to make it stand out. In the 70's, there was a transition from V8 muscle to overhead cam (no push rod) refined sixes and fours. I sold my 67 Camaro in 71 to buy my first Z......haven't bought anything but Japan since (with the exception of 3 Porsches). Some liked the design but couldn't give up what they knew best....V8 power. An original Scarab (from what I've seen) has enough original stuff (fiberglass flares and emblems etc.) and now Randall has confirmed that there was an ID plate to confirm one of the rare original 200 built......enough proof for me. Anyone really interested in the breed, probably has enough info to confirm in his mind that he bought the right car. V8 is not my "cup of tea", but I can certainly understand the attraction. Hell, my son put a comp LS 7 in his 2003 BMW wagon that put 550 h.p. to the wheels and I thought he was nuts. It sold for $36,000.00 on BAT.....didn't recoup his investment LOL. I myself would love to see a concourse Scarab brought back to as close to original as possible.....I would marvel at the memorabilia......love to hear it fire up, but in my Z's I will always stick to the L Series motors......can't wait to install my latest 3.1 L Series Stroker.......bring on that Scarab 70's American muscle car!!!!

Another Datsun fan.....my grandson is in love with the brand! He's ready to race Eiji!!!

What are you going to do with a $20,000.00 barbecue Cliff? Can't believe you're not going to Zcon.......guess we know where to go for a happy meal in Alabama......I saw a sign on the back of a mobile barbecue cooker going up 85 out of Atlanta a couple weeks ago. It read "You can smell our butts a mile away!" ........

Stock it with catfish and bull frogs and live off the land!!!

Zama......Eiji has a drawer full of seals....don't know who he gets his from, but Viton is what you want.....and what Eiji uses. The Nissan seals are the orange/brown color......the best! If you need a low profile seal for a higher lift cam, the Ford low profile seals are what you want. Eiji told me he uses the Ford low profile seals for high lift cams.....he was using low profile seals from Japan, but he finds the Ford seals easier to install! However, It's not just the cam profile that determines short or tall seals. A .490 lift doesn't require short seals in a shaved P79 head because you are using a valve that is .080 inches longer. In the E31 or E88, you will need the short seal if you use a lift above .460. Not sure about the N42/47.

Darned good advice.....Thanks Mike....I'll go with the Spal and shroud! BTW....When you're at the Zcon, look up Eiji....he'll be there. Have a blast. Guy

Thanks so much for all the info.....looks like you are a real craftsman! I'll definitely go with 2 12 inch Spal's. What's your thoughts on if I just attach the fans with the tie straps that go through the radiator vanes? Does that damage the radiator? I will be using an original Datsun 2 row radiator.....just seems like a very easy install with the straps. Thanks. Guy

Which side of the radiator do you recommend for the installation? Also, do you recommend thermostat control, or an on/off switch?

Thanks for your answer Mike W. My son also said that he heard from the Bimmer Forum that Spal was the best name in automotive electric fans. I would really like to see pics of your set up......I will be running a stock 240Z radiator. I am most interested in how you mount the fan on the radiator. Thanks. Guy

Zed Head.......The head is a P79 shaved .080 inches. They all averaged right around 44 cc. There was hardly in variance from chamber to chamber, which is what he was looking for.

BTW......The damper Eiji suggested will make it impossible to run a mechanical fan. I know nothing about electrical fans. Can someone lead me in the right direction regarding fans for the Z? Do I need a single or a double, a pusher or a puller....what is the best quality fan to buy? Any help would be much appreciated.

Brought it home....busy day. Now it's time to put the finishing touches on her and drop it in the green 72.

Had a great day at Datsun Spirit.....Eiji is amazing!

Site....Motorsports has lash pads for $7.50 each or $85.00 for 12....FYI

Good question sweatybetty.......anyone know the answer? Site....Why not call and see if you can send back the 190's and trade for 170's. Isky sends .175's if I recall.

Zama.......I keep one each of a .140, .150, .160, .170, .180, .190 and a .200 lash pads....Just for testing. No need to just install outer spring, since you are just doing one at a time. With those combos, you can center the wipe patterns on almost any cam. I magic marker about 1/4 inch on each side of the face of each rocker arm. Start with number one installing the rocker......then adjust to cold lash, put a dab of oil on the lobe and rotate the cam. Check the pattern.....if centered you are good....if too far back repeat with a thicker lash pad until centered....too far forward, use a thinner pad. Remove that rocker and go to number two. Only one rocker installed at once...... it's not rocket science. Take your time....don't forget to set lash and don't forget to oil the lobe. Write down the numbers for each rocker (1-12) then either buy each lash pad in the right size or have the machine shop or yourself cut them to fit. All 12 of mine were centered with .160's.

Awesome....good job!

A machine shop will cut those down for a song.....those suckers are really hard PITA to file. You'll see what I mean.

I'd bet on that being the problem. I had the same problem once....when I removed the plunger on the Master Vac, the reaction disc fell off. It two feet on the brake pedal (felt hard as heck) to stop the car....frightening!!!! Unbolt the brake Master cylinder ( you don't have to disconnect brake lines) and pull it back away from the Master Vac. Pull the plunger out....if there isn't a rubber disc on the end, you've got a problem. You'll have to vacuum out the disc (about the size of a half dollar and 1/2 inch thick. Super glue it back to the end of the plunger and push back in the Master Vac. Bolt up the master cylinder and you'll be frickin amazed at what a difference that little disc makes. Good Luck!

Will do Site.....BTW, I've got a new name for you instead of siteunseen.....AlabamaZama! Thought of that the other night when I was sucking down a few brews! Whatcha think? BTW.....All 12 lash pads are .160's.....could easily take .170's as you can see on the wipe patterns in the pic. Maybe AlaZama!

Sounds exactly what you get when the reaction disc falls of of the Mastervac plunger. Did you remove the brake Master cylinder? If so did you pull the plunger out of the Mastervac? If so, the little round rubber disc that fits on the back of the plunger probably fell off. If you didn't do these steps, I'm at a loss for what it might be.

Geometried the head with my Stage III Isky cam.....wipe patterns are checked. Will take it to Eiji Monday....he'll cc the chambers, assemble the head, then time the cam. I'll bring her home and finish it up in the next week or so.

You're right LeonV, the word I should have used is inertia, not torque........that's what I feel like I need for stoplight to stoplight and launching the quarter mile.