Jump to content

Diseazd

Member
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Diseazd

  1. Don't think you'll experience any culture shock at Bimmerforums.....my son (Five and Dime) put a Chevy Competion LS 7 in his 2003 BMW wagon. Getting a BMW to communicate with a Chevy engine and A/C is quite a task. The guys on the Bimmerforums loved it. So did Motor Trend Magazine. They are running it at Road Atlanta this Fall and filming it for their YouTube channel.
  2. Diseazd replied to siteunseen's post in a topic in Parts Swapping
    Wine corks work too.....more fun than furniture caps
  3. DUH!!!
  4. INCREDIBLE!
  5. Diseazd replied to Walter Moore's post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    I insure 5 Z's at $30,000.00 each stated value for $1100.00 per year
  6. Diseazd replied to Walter Moore's post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    Walter ......Add my name to the list of well wishers. Doesn't look repairable to me, but there are a ton of nice Z's showing up for sale all of the time......most of the fun is in the restoration IMO. BTW....to everyone reading this thread.....Hagarty is the way to fly.....stated value insures that you get every dime that your car is worth...I hope that's who you were insured with. Not sure, but would guess that if you are insured through them, the other insurer would be obligated to the same amount or else Hagarty would make up the difference. Glad you're still with us Walter
  7. Moved the metal shelves to my parts shed......hung wall cabinets to give myself more floor space.
  8. Diseazd replied to 5150 will's post in a topic in Open Discussions
    .........and brass bushing for the end of the crank (autos don't have one). BTW....under the hood looks like it'll clean up nicely. Can't wait to see the rest of the car. Great color....my favorite!
  9. Diseazd replied to 5150 will's post in a topic in Open Discussions
    It's a fairly easy swap. I've done two of mine. The manual pedal box is already in the car.....all you need is a clutch and brake pedal, a clutch Master Cylinder, a clutch hydraulic line and of course a tranny and slave cylinder. You use your existing console, driveshaft also. Install the shift boot and you're ready to go.
  10. Diseazd replied to 5150 will's post in a topic in Open Discussions
    Automatic?
  11. Remember....the rotor turns counter clockwise.
  12. I couldn't agree with you more dmoralesbello......I have Tokico/Eibachs on two of my cars.......great ride/nice handling. However, it won't lower your Z an inch (if that's important to you). For a street driven car, the Tokico/Eibach set up is definitely the cheapest way to go.......and a better than stock handling set up. My orange and gold Z have Tokico/Eibach's, and the green car is GC Coilovers......if you aren't going to track your Z, I would definitely go the T/E route.
  13. Sorry, I can't remember. You can call Dave at Arizona Zcars to check what the softest Tokico springs he has......that's what I ordered. You don't have to have a bone jarring ride to get good handling. Also, the addition of a Futofab rear sway bar did as much for my set up as the addition of coil overs IMO. Suspension set ups are trial and error.....you're going to live with your set up for a long time.....go ahead and get some softer springs......then you can "enjoy the ride"!
  14. Looks great HaZmatt! I installed Ground Control coil overs with the lowest spring rate they offered (Tokico's). The ride is great. I agree with you....a lower spring rate will definitely solve your problem....mine handle great too....so will yours with the new springs.
  15. Cliff.....I've found when installing the MSA Premium exhaust systems, it's always a good idea to take it to a reputable muffler shop to help "tuck it in" with their pipe bending equipment (just a few tweaks needed). They can make it lay right where you want it and can weld the hangers right where they are needed. Charges are minimal for what you get and for the fact that the system will probably be on the car for it's life. This is especially helpful on lowered Z cars. IMO Guy
  16. Diseazd replied to siteunseen's post in a topic in Open Discussions
    My son (Five and Dime) gave me a cool sculpture for my office.
  17. I agree with LeonV.......the 205-55-16's are the perfect size for 16 inch rims if you don't want rub issues. The gold and orange car run 205-55-16 inch tires.....no issues. The green car runs 225-50-16 inch rims.....some adjustment required, but they will fit with some minor mods. IMO, the 16 inch rims are the way to go if you want a decent choice of rubber.
  18. If you decide to up size, you might as well go to 16 inch rims. 15 inch choices are slim pickings and even the 16's are getting tough to find a good performance tire.
  19. Check out arizonazcar.com They have some pretty good stuff if you want to go coil overs, camber plates and Willwood Brakes. They also show you how to do it on their website. I used their Ground Control coil overs and Willwood brakes on my 72. I'm very happy with their products.
  20. Diseazd replied to siteunseen's post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    Not sure, but would probably guess, that if your wife is a certified psychologist, she'd probably pronounce all of us "Frickin Crazy"!
  21. Diseazd replied to siteunseen's post in a topic in Open Chit Chat
    CONGRATS ON 500 CLIFF.......YOU ARE A GREAT ASSET TO THE FORUM......HERE'S TO MANY MORE LIKES!!!!! GUY
  22. Site.....All I'm saying is that the oil rings in the Hasting set aren't as easy to install as the other ring sets that I mentioned. It's important to install the lower oil rings correctly. I'm sure others install them with no problem, but I just find Nissan and Total Seal oil rings seem to "lay in" much nicer!
  23. ........therefore the cap to the left of the rear cap in picture 3 is too wide. Always number your bearing caps so they go back from where they came off.
  24. IMO you can install the rear seal either way. Grease the lips of the seal before installing. When you install it on the crank journal , rotate the seal clockwise as you are installing on the crank journal.....position the seal where you want it to sit (slightly off any previous wear grove), then torque down bearing caps. I also install sometimes after the crank is in and torqued. Grease the seal lips and rotate clockwise on rear crank journal until snug and square. I then tap it in squarely with a flat edge (block of wood) evenly until seated flush. BTW, I see you are using Hastings piston rings....IMO, they are the worst (poor oil rings). I recommend Nissan OEM or Total Seal. Looks like a nice clean install....great pictures! Note: Looks like you've got the wrong (narrow bearing) bearing in the rear cap.

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.