Diseazd

Anyone dealing with this company deserves what they get! How many times do you have to hear complaints about trashy built engines to figure out they don't have a clue? Can't imagine what the transmissions are like. I recently had a great experience with this company. I ordered the choke plate that secures the plate to the tunnel under the console. Datsun Parts charged $45.00 plus $7.00 shipping. Bought another a week later from Art Singer for $25.00 plus $5.00 shipping........exact same part, finish and all.. Wow, what a difference.....Datsun Parts LLC must be laughing all the way to the bank!

I'm talking about downloading video so everyone can see it. Madkaw couldn't see the video, and believe it or not I can't see it on my iPad when I try to download it from this forum....why not? BTW Siteunseen....I love your enthusiasm......you really live and breathe these cars and are willing to put the time in to learn.......sorry I couldn't have made ZCON to meet you.

Super Peter......Eiji is an incredible engine builder and a dear friend! I'm sure it'll be nice......don't know why anyone would use anyone else ......he's so passionate and attentive to detail. Here's me and Eiji.....Friday night.

Sorry Patcon.....I'll get a ten year old to help me.....I'm lost. Bruce....yeah, yeah they are genuine Ztherapy carbs ........ I'm running with those secret jets and needles you guys just developed! Nuyuck, nuyuck!

Didn't look like they geometried the rockers eh? Hope the wipe patterns are ok.

We ran each other 5 times......here's another run where I got a head start. trim.496D2893-6893-4B45-B9D0-88CB0515D80C.MOV

Hi Peter.....Eiji said he was doing some stuff for you. My engine is the F54 block, .040 over with flat tops and L28 crank, P79 head shaved .080 inches with stainless swirl valves, Isky Stage III cam with the MSA premium exhaust and a Borla muffler. SU carbs of course. I run right at 170 rear wheel horsepower. Eiji as you know runs all sorts of engine goodies and triple Mikunies.......he Dynos at 226 h.p. We had a frickin ball.....we're going to do it again soon.....you should join us.

trim.9D20A67B-0F85-4931-8E22-C0703E389789.MOV Eiji and I did a little test and tune at Dinwiddie Drag Strip yesterday......the Chevy/Ford guys loved the Datsuns!

You are the 2nd guy in the last week that pointed that out (and I've owned the car for 22 years)......I would have never noticed that the slots in the wheels are directional (good eye). I'll fix that....Thanks

That would be silver Hardway, but you're right about a premium car bringing decent money, but if you're looking for a Z32, you'd better buy em now, cause they are incredibly cheap.....mine (without a scratch) would probably only bring about $10,000.00..............that's the price for a restorable 240Z.....in need of repair. These cars out of the box handle like a race car, and they ride like a Cadilac!

Just read where Hagarty named the 90 to 95 Z32 a top ten collectable, so I buffed out my 1990 original paint 300ZX. The Turtle Wax trim restorer works miracles. These cars are incredible.....don't know why they are so cheap!

Put 20 miles on her this morning. It must have been caused by the 17 mm bolt (bushing that bolts the pedal to the pedal box at the top of the pedal)) that backed out letting the brake pedal wobble around, because it wasn't a problem today. If that bolt had dropped out, I think it could have been exciting . There was no heat or drag whatsoever. I guess the twisted pedal could have activated vacuum in the booster and put pressure on the brakes. Whatcha think?

Zed Head...... Not sure what initiated the problem.....it may have been dragging for a while....just not bad. Remember...this car has been in Resto for 2 1/2 years, so I'm just getting around to driving it. Let me tell you what I did find though. The 17 mm bushing/bolt was halfway out.....the brake pedal was wobbling around, about to fall out and ruin my day! I slid it back in and bolted it down tight.....could that have been part of the problem? Next, I pulled the master cylinder off of the booster.....reaction disc stayed in place to my delight. I shortened the adjusting plunger rod about 3/16 to 1/4 inch and put it back together. I put 8 to 10 miles on it.....no brake dust and no burning smell, and no hot Panasport. You may have been right, there may have been a little pressure on the master cylinder plunger.....causing my problem. Getting dark, will put 40 or 50 miles on it tomorrow and if OK, I've got new rotors and calipers to install....they may still be a problem. Thanks for your help and everyone else's. I'll update till I'm sure it's fixed. BTW, I still can't figure out how to adjust the brake pedal ( do you take off the big spring, do you adjust it while putting light pressure against the booster etc.) I would imagine the booster plunger rod does pretty much the same thing. Thanks all ....I'll update later.

I'm going to go out and adjust the pedal rod to see if it might be applying pressure on the MC. I want to make sure that's not the case, otherwise new calipers aren't going to solve the problem. If that doesn't help, I'll install the new rotors and calipers, and if that doesn't fix things, I guess I'll check the plunger rod in the booster for adjustment (too long). Thanks everyone for your help ......I'll keep you informed as I go along.

I see where the rod should be adjusted to 8 1/8 inches from the top of the pedal to the floor. Is that adjustment when you are pushing the pedal down or with it hanging free?

The front brakes are locking up on my orange 72......I have a brand new master cylinder (Nissan). The brake lines are all new. Any ideas on the cause? I'm wondering if there is any adjustment on the push rod of the M/C? The front right wheel gets so hot you can't touch it.....the left front wheel has more than usual brake dust. Fluid level was down on the front resovoir. Any ideas.....I suck at brakes?

Cool pictures Steve.....Thanks for taking the time........

How about more pics of people?

Looks like me when I went to Savannah 3 years ago. Silver Xterra pulling a gold Z! Good Luck Jim.....beautiful car!

Try Zcarsource.com ......They have tons of used parts.....buy a used set and take em down to stainless steel.

Bansai Motorworks has 'em under loss leader in their catalog.

No problem with air flow using a stock air cleaner on a modded 280ZX. Your engine looks great!

Remember, we jacked the towers up .080 inches, so the engine valve train remains bone stock. Z Doctor in Roanoke says that if Isky regrinds a stock Datsun cam, there's really no need to degree the cam......Isky says the same thing ( see Zed Head post 81). I'm extremely happy with the performance of these cams........really makes the cars fun to drive!

I run Stage III Isky regrinds in all but one of my Z's. It's a really nice grind.....no problem on the street.....pulls hard all the way through the rpm range! However, all engines are L28 with P79 shaved heads, except the L24 (72 modified L24) in the 73. Can't speak for the Stage III in L24's, I run a Stage II Isky regrind in it. They are 10 degrees less duration and .480 lift......I would only buy Stage III in the future.