Diseazd

Beautiful car Mike…..glad to see you’re still working your magic. Regards Guy

Keep the SU’s…..this video of Eiji (triples) vs me with SU’s. Both are stroker motors, but Eiji with more motor, but still competitive. I love ny SU’s. IMG_2617.MOV

Check the u joints on the driveshaft?

Crazy how it goes away. Speedometer cable possibly bad? A worn crank rear bushing can cause transmission noise.

Great job Steve…..I changed points once and the car wouldn’t fire. Took me 20 minutes to figure out that there is a little piece of protective paper between the new point contacts……🤪

Hi Charles…..It’s a durable clear, rock hard coating that seals the tank. I highly recommend it. Guy

When you get the tranny square to the block 1 to 2 inches opening equally all around, thread a long head bolt through two of the holes for the 4 tranny bolt holes and thread into the block. Then you know that you are aligned and it will slide right in. I believe if I remember correctly, you only have room to thread 2 in. This will guide your tranny right in……I’ve personally never had problem with the clutch alignment tool…..it’s always been a frickin PITA to man handle the engine without making sure everything is lined up squarely. This assures that it is!

The shock inserts sometimes fit a little too short for the gland nut to snug them tightly in the strut. A spacer (large washer) is usually provided with the shocks to shim the shock so that it locks the shock firmly in the strut. If you have any movement in that rod, it’s either the gland nut isn’t locking the shock snugly in the strut, or you’ve got a blown shock (even if new.) IMO

Get someone to push it down while looking at the linkage coming out of the firewall under the hood. The linkage could be rubbing against some other item ( Brake booster valve insulator.) That sometimes comes out of the sleeve and moves forward and can cause binding of the linkage.

Looking great Charles!!!! Good work.

Why not just go .040 over and not worry about it? The block screens should still be available from Nissan.

Good advice, but there is ZERO rust anywhere and it’ll never be driven in the rain.

Brandon finished the 1987 Pathfinder. All original paint wet sanded and buffed. All new rubber and bumpers and grill painted. It came out better than new!

Brandon had his Pathfinder wet sanded and buffed. Original paint came out better than new…..beautiful!

So sorry about your dog. We went through the same trauma last year with Millie. Nothing worse than losing your best pal…..takes a very long time to heal!

Watching my grandson learn the lines at the local gocart track!!!! Kid’s gonna be another John Morton!!!! IMG_3534.MOV

Sounds perfectly normal to me. L series engines always have valve chatter…..especially with a higher lift cam. I asked the Z Doc about this when he used to build my heads…..he said its the nature of the beast. You might be trumpeting it through the thin headers too. Enjoy it, drive it, L series engines are hard to break…,.believe me I’ve tried LOL.

Hi Charles…..That is a system for making water for Brandon’s huge saltwater fish tank. 300 gallon.

Enjoying watching my son Brandon bring his new purchase back to “Like New” condition. BTW......If anyone knows where we can find any wheel flares, we’re looking hard. 1987 two door. Thanks Guy

No need to balance an engine for 7000 rpm. One more thing. If you install a Stage III cam, you’ll need to geometry the cam with .160 to .180 lash pads (center the wipe pattern on the rockers) but in the E88 head, you’ll also need the shorter valve seals to prevent the valve retainers from contacting the seals with the higher lift. If you guys are doing this build, you’ll need to seek advice as you progress from those on this site that have done this before.

If you go with the Stage III .490 lift can, you would need a set of Isky Springs and some .160 to .180 lash pads to geometry the cam…..your engine buider should be able to handle that.

You have a lot of good, but mostly bad. Get rid of the boat anchor E88. Get an N47, N42 or shave a P79 (the best, but a number of steps to follow). Don’t go forged, but do go flat tops……040 over is good. Dump the dished pistons. Get Isky to grind a stock cam to stage III…..no the valves won’t hit the pistons. Patcon is right…..the higher duration, higher lift cam allows you to run on 91. Put all that together and you should have a motor that is a lot more fun to drive all IMO. All of these changes will require questions on this site as you proceed. We all stand ready to help. “Enjoy the Ride”.

Obviously I like the BRE rear spoilers…….. I got mine from Motorsports…..doesn’t requie 6 bolts. Maybe 4. Why not match with a BRE front spoiler too?