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SledZ........Once you get a set of Total Seal or Nissan rings, you'll understand how bad the ITM oil ring is! The pistons are awesome, and the top and middle ring are fine....just that oil ring which can destroy an engine if not installed correctly. Don't buy Hastings either.....they're almost as bad.

The secret is to throw those rings away and buy Total Seal or Nissan rings.......ITM pistons are great, but the rings aren't. IMO

My friend Mike Lee took a couple cool shots of the orange Z at Cars and Coffee this morning.

Yes....I'm almost sure that would be correct ......the longer springs (1) would go in the front to offset the engine weight. The rear springs would end in the number (2).

Ztherapy sells SU oil. Why not use what they recommend? I've got a couple bottles of their oil and it seems a heck of a lot thinner than 30wt. oil.........but about the same consistency of 3 in One machine oil ( in the little squeeze cans ).

You have to drill two 3/8 inch holes. I bought a 9 inch drill extension to drill the holes. If you go on the Futofab site, they show the directions in the add. The whole installation only takes about 1 1/2 hours.

Zcarsource.com has Tokico Blues........that's what I would go with!

Stephen.....Good choice on the Eibachs......I think you'll love 'em. Nice soft ride around town and progressively firmer under G. Did you ever put the new interior in the white car?

I wish he wouldn't use those big words........Sometimes I think engineers read too much. I love that roadster, but I think it has a little too much DRIP in the front!

Ride height of Eibachs............

Zedy.......You'll love the ride you get with Eibachs........they don't lower the stock ride height much....maybe a half inch. Glad to see you back on the Z. Any pics of the roadster? Hope you have your "safety socks" on when you're working on that suspension. BTW.....Eibachs are black, so they look stock.

Chris.....Just wondering......why not put a couple clips in the new cut out area to finish off your cut out more? I like both of your solutions......just find it hard to cut the console of a Series 1.

I bead blast mine to metal and have them ceramic coated. If you don't want to spend the $$$$ for ceramic coating, bead blast and paint with VHT.

If you can get the air tube slugs out, you can buy brass plugs to fill the holes.

Bravo Bruce! You're the guys that keep em running!

The "absorber" is equal to a chamois IMO.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AY69V/?tag=googhydr-20&hvadid=43845868762&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6759956198359111516&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_5nft8ffx1m_b This works great....

Installed the new Futofab sway bar I bought for the green 72. Easy installation and really helps in the corners.

Steve.....Add one of these.....it'll stop that body roll. Futofab has 'em.

Cool......Lets "get Crackin'"!

BTW......The cam doesn't look like a regrind (looks stock). If it has been re ground, the cam grinder usually etches the profile on the back end of the camshaft (you would probably need a mirror to see it in the car), but yours looks bone stock.

I just ran into the same thing with the BD hood bumper screws. I did the same thing you did by just transferring the rubber bumper to the old studs. However, that's the first problem I've had with their parts......for the most part, they are an excellent supplier.

So nice to see a Z restored "the right way". I hope your painter is as good as your body work!

Then you've answered his question.......keep 'em in the holes they came out of. That would explain why the rod big ends are numbered.

Now that would make sense......However did the factory really balance to each engine or try to equalize the weight on all piston / rod sets?