Diseazd

DJ.......Pulled the bearings.....all perfect! The problem was a throw out bearing that my machine shop pressed on backwards. The bearings finally froze up tight and welded to the clutch fingers making that squealing noise and locking everything up. Oh well......another learning experience. The motor is fine!!.

http://devour.com/video/vintage-race-car-crashes/ .......real vintage racing....

Real nice numbers.....go with the SU's.....you'll love'em.

Test trim.61E8C9EC-FCAA-401C-BA48-83E34894353F.MOV

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/42742-what-is-it-series-i-or-series-ii/ This might help......

Don't know about those Steve..........I guess he wants a block to convert to a stroker later. Swap in 240Z 9mm rods, stroker crank and 240SX pistons and you're in business after Memphis. Biggest I've ever gone on the L28 is .040 over ( 1mm ). I've never built a Stroker.......I guess it should be on my "Bucket List".

$15.00 each....

Nothing wrong with ITM pistons......I shaved .015 off and used Nissan rings. I don't like their oil spacers.

It's a 6/71 manufacture date. It's a transition Z. No vents, no 240Z pillar emblem, angular driveshafts, "A" tranny (probably), late valve cover, metal fan, etc. My 71 is a transition Z.

Zed.........clutch is pressure plate with fingers........disc goes between the pressure plate and flywheel.....

Definitely change the bronze to steel........and get the new low profile Felpro Ford seals.....you'll be lucky if the .190's work correctly for all twelve valves. The head looks good....nice water jackets.

If it's a 240Z clutch, use the collar for the 240z. If it's a 280Z clutch, use the collar for that clutch. Throw out bearings are the same. If you don't match the collar to the clutch, you'll be screwing with it forever. You can choose either clutch and collar for the 5 speed but collar and clutch have to match. I always match the arm lever too......240z arm to 240Z clutch and 280Z arm to 280Z clutch.

More......

Here they are......

FYI.....I just got detailed pics of the 240Z for sale. I wasn't impressed. The paint work wasn't good, the seats were recovered with leather ( a negative), under the hood was a poor gray color, inspection plate under the hood was riveted on the wrong side,and it would need a full new strip and paint to be nice. It's not a series one. The positives are the dash is nice and there appears to be little if any rust, however who knows, it could be covered up. The engine looks to be all original but shows it's wear. This car would require a lot of work to make it nice. My impression was the car was worth $8,000.00 to $10,000.00. IMO

Has anyone used the Valvoline GL-5 -- what have the results been for you so far? THANKS! > Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 14:56:55 -0400 > From: ValvTechLine@ashland.com > To: 1969buickGS > Subject: Re: GL-4 and GL-5 manual transmission lubricants The Valvoline Gear Oils can be used for both GL4 and GL5. The real concern is the type of sulfate used in the gear oil. You can not use an active sulfate for GL-4 applications. Valvoline uses an inactive sulfate that will not harm any yellow metal such as bronze. This allows our products to be used in manual transmissions that have bronze synchronizers and differentials without causing any type of corrosion to yellow metals. ---------------------------- Another post from Valvoline on the subject.......looks like Valvoline Limited Slip High Performance 75-90 gear oil is fine for yellow metals. It's approved for GL4 or GL5 apps.

I was looking through a Jeep forum and found a thread on where to buy GL-4 and a poster mentioned that he contacted valvoline about it. he said: "I called Valvoline regarding this. They indicated that the problem with some GL-5 is activated sulfates. They indicated that they do not use activated sulfates and their GL-5 is safe for yellow metal... " **---->> confirmed from another forum source: "Apparently activated sulfate (used in some GL5 lubes) can eat brass synchros. Valvoline indicated: "The Valvoline High Performance Gear Oil 80-w90 can be used for both GL4 and GL5. The real concern is the type of sulfate used in the gear oil. You can not use an active sulfate for GL-4 applications. Valvoline uses an inactive sulfate that will not harm any yellow metal such as bronze. This allows our products to be used in manual transmissions that have bronze synchronizers." What is your input on this? Is there a way to confirm the truth to this? I didn't know GL4 from GL5 till this forum......I use Valvoline 75-90 limited slip. It says it can be used in transmissions calling for GL4 or GL5. Anyone know if I can use this in Datsun transmissions? Sounds like its OK, but I have no idea. Any thoughts?

Maybe Dave builds the race engines and Bubba and A.J. have a crack at the public engines.......Ed China would say "This is Rubbish"!

If I were you, I wouldn't even futz with dropping the oil pump and moving it 180 degrees. It ain't going to change a thing! Just remember it's 180 out.....enjoy it.......... IMO

Couldn"t agree with you more......How can you dyno an engine and not note that you're 180 degrees out? How could you ship it out without correcting it? The reason why I like to build the engines myself.

No difference as far as setting up distributor shaft...........

No difference.

Looks great, runs great......That's all that matters. Make sure you've got good oil pressure and change the oil and filter after a couple hundred miles. Congrats!