Diseazd

The NSX is an incredible car! I just love everything about it. Regarding the engine......in that case I'd use the L28 flat top with the N42 head......go with a stock cam, so you can go back with all the stock head parts. Keep the rockers and lash pads in the order you remove them.

Why not go back with the L24 head. Oversize valves in the L28 head will collide with your cylinder walls unless you overbore or notch the block. The stock L24 with stock L24 head will make plenty of power when rebuilt to spec.......especially compared to what you're driving now!

Just booked ZCON ......Brenda and I are going to arrive Wednesday July 15th .....leaving Sunday July 19th. If you're going, why not let us know the dates you'll be there and we should get some one to be in charge of getting the Classic Zcars members together......I nominate SteveJ! Eiji will be there the same dates. Any other confirms (no maybes)?

Looks great Steve......

Your notches in the block look pretty deep........does the top ring fall short of the notches ATDC?

112 yellow is the so called lime green.

Absolutely........It'll probably get a total restoration too. He's been looking for a lemon green car for awhile. Rust free is what he was looking for.

A good friend of mine bought the car..........it looks great in the ad......we'll see.

Checked with Z Doc.......you're right Zed Head. He says as long as there is no warpage from one head to the other, you can swap towers from one to the other!

Stang.........L series cam towers are align bored. I don't think you can take cam towers from one head and put on another head........the cam probably won't turn freely. Also, if you ever take cam towers off of a head, number each tower so that they go back in the same order for the same reason. Also, 1mm (.040 inches) is a lot to take off of a head without shims.......brings the cam sprocket closer to the crank sprocket.....this affects cam timing and chain slack.

Beautiful car Al.....watch out for the Roo's!

I had the same problem using Nissan .040 over L24 ( 73 ) Pistons with the valve reliefs. We were .030 out with a stock height block. We milled .020 off the Pistons ........I think it cost $100.00. Problem solved!

Nope...

You need to get a number of size lash pads. When I geometry a Stage III cam, I have a .150, a .160, a .170, and a .180 lash pad. With a stock cam, you'd probaly need a .120, .130 and maybe a.140 (not sure about the stock sizes). Go through each rocker, center the wipe pattern. I use an old egg carton (12 holes) .....I number 1 through 12 and write in magic marker the lash pad size for each rocker. Put that rocker in that hole too, then you know things are where they should be when you put it together. Remember to set proper valve lash when you geomery the rockers. If you have a good engine builder, the valve stem height will be spot on. My last engine was ten .160 pads and two .150's.

All I can tell you is they work great for me...... looked like new.......wipe patterns centered perfectly and broke in just like they're supposed to.......no complaints!

I send my original rockers off to Delta Cams........they come back looking like new in a 10 day turnaround at $3.00 each. I like the idea of using the original Datsun metals (rockers) with the original Datsun metals (camshaft). Just like they left the factory. Isky regrinds my original Datsun camshafts.

The argument goes on and on. New or old rockers? If I'm going to invest the time and money to build a new engine with a new cam, I'm certainly going to break for the extra cost of new rockers ........I'll bet if you look at the old rockers under a microscope, it would be interesting. However, you'll get an argument on either side, so do what YOU think is right. I've got 5 new engines all with Isky Stage III regrinds (from original Datsun cams) and new rockers and springs. They all look and run perfect after several thousand miles. However, my friend The Z Doctor in Roanoke claims that some aftermarket cam cores are not compatable with Nissan rockers and wear quickly. He thinks that the compatability of the original metals used in Datsun engines account for the long life of the early Datsun engines, so I wouldn't use anything but orignal Datsun cams for my regrind (Isky). All IMO.

Eiji at Datsun Spirit will build you a perfect head. He's a stickler for detail. He can either rebuild the head you've got or provide you with one from his inventory. It'll be like new. Check out his website.......Datsunspirit.com

Steve.....Your car keeps getting better and better. The spoiler and wheels look great! As does the early bumper.

Delta does a beautiful job.....$3.00 each and back in 10 days.....always. If someone can beat that I'd be surprised. Make sure you inspect the rockers you send to insure they're in good shape. Hope you're surviving the winter Mitchell.

Real nice job bvolken.....we appreciate your efforts!

I agree with Jonathan......stock rods are more than adequate for street driven Z's, as I believe are the Nissan rod bolts. There is usually plenty of used Datsun rods on EBay. If not, you can source a used set from zcarsource.com or some other supplier. Save your money for the head.....that's where things really happen.

You would be right about being an absolute dog. IMO, I would keep the L24/E31 in the car........store the L28 in your wife's closet until you can install flat tops and a shaved and shimmed P90 head with a nice Stage III cam. I don't know what h.p. the de tuned engine would turn, but my guess would be less than what you've got now.

Sorry Mike......Just saw your post. No I didnt. It's a beautiful car, but low prices on the Z32's keep me from selling it. The nice only bring 7 to 10 grand. Hardly worth selling at that price, and I can't work on anything but the old Z's.