
Everything posted by Diseazd
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240z radiator on 280zx engine which is the correct coolant hoses??
Wael.....PM sent....how's Q8? You guys have awesome Z's....glad to see you like the Datsuns.....good taste! Guy
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E88 head on an N42 block
OZ......Great job on trying new things......with those numbers, you're doing something right...eh mate.....keep using your own instincts ....I'm proud of you! Guy
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E88 head on an N42 block
Wow OZ nice numbers! Is that right 213 h.p.? Send some pictures mate. Pump or rocket fuel?
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Reaction Disk
Sorry to hear that jcb. What I would do if I were you is to buy an old worthless booster on EBay.......pull out the plunger and scavenge the disc. Old boosters can be had for very little cash. You can get them from a 240 or 280. A junk yard or salvage site might also be a good place to look.
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Reaction Disk
Hurry up......we're waiting. Vaccuum the disc out, glue it on, put it back together and tell everyone how damned smart we are. It's a one hour job! :stupid::stupid:
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Reaction Disk
It's in there......get it if you can (no way it escaped). The booster is miserable without that little disc.....feels like you have to put both feet on the brake pedal to stop the car. Super glue it to the plunger.
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Reaction Disk
I agree with Blue....also you can neck down a small section of hose to your vacuum cleaner with duct tape....fish it around in the hole and it will stick to the end of the hose! :bulb::bulb::bulb::bulb::bulb:
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Dreamers on ClassicCars.com
.......and the definition of a restored Z vary by a wide degree. A professionally restored Z......done by crafstsmen, the correct way, will bring between $30,000.00 to $50,000.00. That's the good news. The bad news is the restoration costs will probably be much higher than the return. Most cars on EBay advertised as restored, need a total restoration IMO.
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Dreamers on ClassicCars.com
Puff your chest out Carl .......Jeff..You can have your choice for a bizillion! A pretty accurate pricing guide that I've found is that an early 240Z is worth about 75% of what you've invested......not counting your own time!
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Vintage Rubber, still in business??? Epic Service FAIL
Not sure, but I think Les at Classic Datsun sells their stuff. Why not order from him if he does?
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Diff issue, vibration, several questions
Yes.....But your early Z has the short drive shaft......so you'll need another early Z manual or auto driveshaft. Why not try the spacers first.....a lot easier to eliminate alignment of the driveshaft ends first. If someone removed the mount without replacing the spacer, that could easily be your problem. BTW....beautiful car! PS.....make sure the PO didn't already move the diff rearward.....in that case you would need the 72-73 longer driveshaft.
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Diff issue, vibration, several questions
When I swapped out my 72 from auto to manual, there was a spacer between the tranny mount and tranny. Make sure your mount has this spacer.....it makes all the difference in alignment of the drive shaft.
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Painting SU Carb linkage
Gather all of the parts that need plating.....clean them up with carb cleaner.....never use steel wool or sandpaper. DatsunSpirit is in Manassas. Don't know for sure, but would bet Eiji would throw your stuff in with his next batch. His cad plating is very,very nice!
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Painting SU Carb linkage
Carb linkage should never be painted IMO. You want it to operate smoothly with no binding. Either leave it like it is, or have it plated. Eiji at DatsunSpirit in your neck of the woods may be able to help you with plating.
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Bronze valve seats?
E31 with stock valves and seats.....not L28 valves and seats. Good Luck ole boy....takes a while to figure out what works and doesn't work with these cars.
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Bronze valve seats?
Eddy....If you're going to put a head on for the 2500 mile trip to the resto shop, go with the E88 or E31. If you install the N42 or N47 head (with the larger L28 valves, you'll need one of two things). 1) bore it out at least .030 inches so the exhaust valve clears the side of the L24 standard bore block or 2) notch the side of the cylinder to allow valve clearance. Install the E88 or E31 and you can bolt it right up with no clearance issues if you go back with the stock L24 valves. Once you decide for sure which head you'll use, our knowledgeable members will advise you on further needed steps.
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Bronze valve seats?
Jeff is talking a P79 head with deep chambers. Don't think for a minute you can shave .050 inches off of an E88 or E31. You don't want to contact the valves against the pistons. Like Steve suggested.....get a copy of "How to Modify the Datsun 240Z and 510". I believe (but not sure), that you don't want to take off more than .030 inches with a stock gasket.
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3 Console screws towards back
Same here.....black Phillips....no washer.
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Bronze valve seats?
Looks like it must of come from the small hole between the cylinders, or possibly the larger hole opposite the side of your red arrow....the way it was eaten away from that direction. I've seen it eat the metal ring in the gasket and get in that way. Still have the old gasket? Too bad....looks like a nice head other than that.
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Bronze valve seats?
Eddy....Check the two water passages adjacent to number 3.....see if you can see any etching along the gasket surface into the cylinder. If so, it needs to be milled out if you reuse the head. That's where the water would enter the cylinder. Number 6 has a big water jacket and therefore that's where it usually occurs.
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Hs30-00019
Just wondering....any other brave tasks you're taking on mate? Like wrestling a 16 foot crock or boxing a kangeroo? It is a low number and it'll be fun watching you take her apart. Good Luck.....if you run into Ozconnection, give him my best!
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Bronze valve seats?
Not necessarily......the electrolysis eats a little tunnel under the gasket, into the combustion chamber. The water continues to eat aluminum and other metal. I had one do the same thing. Can't remember whether it was 5 or 6. It's like an electric current flows through the water and slowly eats metal like a weak acid. Probably has something to do with the electrical system being neg ground and a very small short in the circuit somewhere. Like I said SteveJ is our resident electrical guru and could probably explain it. The head can be welded, ground down and new seats installed. You need a pro though....don't want to warp the head. Good Luck Guy
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Bronze valve seats?
That looks like electrolysis......Never use tap water or well water in your radiator...use distilled water and anti freeze. The metals and other contaminants in H2O cause an electrical reaction that eventually eats a little tunnel under the head gasket and gets in the cylinder. It reacts with aluminum and other metals and eats it away. This usually happens when the car is sitting for a long time. I'll bet SteveJ can help with this.
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Hs30-00019
Glad it's you and not me! :tapemouth
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Thinking of selling my Z... I have the GTV bug REALLY BAD
Save the Z for Zedytwo_kenobi.......borrow the money to buy the Alpha. Gotta admit....the yellow one is beautiful!