Diseazd

Yes.....he's screwed and must take the front cover off! :stupid::ogre::sick:

gtom.....I found the orange car in the Classic Zcars Classifieds.....Everyone that sees my cars likes the 112 color best....glad you found a nice one.

TDC on the compression stroke....

Probably about right......BTW, the plug is in the end of the cam....right? Right Jeff?

Same here.....Isky recommends it (VR1). Also, do you fill your oil pumps with oil to prime them before starting a new motor? It's especially critical with a new camshaft. I also crank it w/o the coil wire attached and w/o plugs till I see the oil needle move (you have to look close because it barely moves at that low rpm).

Blue....It looks like a defect in that rocker.....is that an optical illusion or a little defect just before the bright wipe pattern? I'd try a new rocker and see if the wear transfers to the new rocker. If not, just run it.

Did you email a pic to Delta for their ideas? The people at Isky are always very helpful. I would doubt that spring tension caused the problem....Scneider has a ton of these on the market.......Call Eiji at Datsun Spirit, he uses Schneider cams and springs, he might have some ideas or suggestions.

Hi Blue.....Did you set up the rocker geometry with the correct lash pads? Pull that rocker arm and check to see that the wear pattern is centered. It could be that the cam is off the front of the rocker slightly. Sorry old boy.....

Thanks Jeff......I'm building two other engines at the time, so pulling that engine is on the back burner. I suspect oil pump, and will drop that this weekend. If the bearings are shot, I understand that when I drain the oil it'll smell like burnt toast. I go out of my way to keep an engine clean when I build them, and I never use RTV anywhere (I use form a gasket on the rear side seals and clean any excess on the inside), so that isn't a problem. I believe it's going to be oil pump related, but will have to wait and see. I've never heard of anyone having a failed oil pump....have you? Whatever it is, I hope that expensive E31 head is OK......we'll see, this is how you learn I guess......high oil pressure is a warning sign, just like low pressure.

Thanks everyone for your condolences in my time of need........you guys are the best!

This is the engine before installation .......sure was pretty.

Lazeum.....No it was the L24 block and crank on the gold 71.....I didn't use plastigage, but every standard on standard I've ever plastigaged has been acceptable, plus the crank spun effortlessly with the mains torqued. Besides, the pressure increased later, if it had been a clearance issue, it should have started from the first start up, but you're correct, it could have been an out of tolerance shell, but I don't think so. I'm bummed and haven't pulled the engine yet, but will keep everyone informed. Luckily, I have the L28 motor with the L24 crank and rods almost finished....it didn't have anywhere to go......now it does.....could be the gods.

If bearing clearances were too tight, the crank would not have spun so effortlessly when the engine was assembled....standard crank and standard bearings....you wouldn't think too little, you'd guess too much if anything. I use 30 weight oil.......I know nothing about an oil pump, but suspect that.....an oil filter wouldn't be blocked that quickly, especially after changing the first one......I'm stumped.....I'll be pulling the engine when my "pressure" returns to normal....what a bitch!

I did stop worrying and yesterday, I was trying to quiet what I thought was a squealing fan belt and the engine shut down. It is locked solid and will not budge.....my guess is that the bearings are welded to the crank.....trying to figure out what caused it. Check your filter and oil pump Madkaw.....high oil pressure is not a good thing......I think the squealing was bearings not fan belt.

I too run a stock oil pump.....I changed to a new oil filter (Niisan) after the first 200 miles as always when I build a new motor. The engine has 2000 miles, so if it were tolerance based, you'd think it would have been toast by now. Also, the crank was polished and passed as standard, so I used standard Clevite bearings. I'm very careful to keep things spotless when building my motors. I'm stumped unless the new oil pump is defective.

What would you suggest.....a new oil pump?

My 71 240Z (L24engine) runs 75 lbs. of oil pressure at 3000 rpm. It's not a defective gauge. What can cause high oil pressure in a Z motor? The engine has 2000 miles on it and runs perfect.

Body work is done.....the block sanding is starting. My guess is she'll be ready to paint by the end of August.

My John Deere Gator was more expensive than that.......hats off to Nissan for entering a new market. I'd install Panasports and Goodrich KDW II's Bruce.

You need a new inspection sticker......:bulb:

The first lap after the parade lap at Road Atlanta will go down as one of the biggest rushes I 've ever had in my life! I'm a big Greg Ira fan too, but I'll be pulling for the guy I first saw at the Esses at The Roadrace of Champions in 1970. I'll be contributing and pulling for John......Good Luck old boy......do it one more time!!!

Whatever the stock gasket is.....I believe it's like .055 inches.

Yes......flush. I'm using a stock P79 Nissan head gasket.

Installed the .040 over ITM pistons. Torqued the main and connecting rod caps. Looking good. BTW Madkaw...the pistons are flush with deck.

John Morton is the reason I bought my first Z in 1970. I watched him blow the competition away at Road Atlanta.......it was awesome. Can't wait to see him again, and if Sam is building the car, it should be a heads up competition between him and Greg! This is great!