Diseazd

I think I would stain, paint or use some other method to color the juke to match the original color. The only thing that stands out as missing the original look. Just my two cents worth.

1) Bleed the front master cylinder resevoir again 2) then bleed both front calipers again. If that doesn’t help, remove the master cylinder (you don’t have to remove the lines to push it aside), then pull the plunger and check to see if the reaction disc is in place. 3) if not in place, fish it out and super glue it on to the plunger. Good luck

If indeed, your problem is caused by the damper bolt bottoming out, no matter what your set up is,(and it sure sounds to me like it is), I can promise you that you will destroy the crank in short order if you keep running it. If it were me, I would 1) either reinstall the old damper with the stock bolt, or 2) add another spacer washer to your set up to prevent the bolt from bottoming and see if the noise mysteriously disappears. Nothing else I can add.

Thanks @Zed Head......I couldn’t figure out how to find those. Pretty much sounds like his problem.

If I recall, the washer had a step down. If I installed it one way, it dropped into the opening of the damper and caused the bolt to bottom out in the snout......BAD! If installed on the flip side, it wouldn’t drop in and the bolt wouldn’t bottom out. I just ditched the expensive “so called” Nismo bolt combo and went back to the stock damper bolt and washer and the noise disappeared. I pulled my hair out too. You can thank @Zed Headfor this if that was your problem.....he saved your arse a ton of hair pulling. I have a thread called “Strange noise coming from my L28” or something to that effect. If someone knows how to find it, it explains the whole process. I don’t know how to find my old threads. Every time I learn how to use this site, @Mikechanges it LOL. Good Luck! Sorry Mike.....still waiting for that trip to Holland. PS. I added pictures of that expensive bolt and washer that caused the problem.

Great point @Zed Head. If he didn’t go back with the stock damper bolt, he may be having the same problem I had using the performance damper bolt from Motorsports. Like you said, the bolt and washer combo was too long, bottomed out in the snout and made a weird noise under load because it didn’t snug everything up. Pulled my hair out trying to find the noise. Make sure you use a washer and bolt that is short enough not to bottom out. You want the bolt and washer to snug everything up. Very, very important. I started a thread on the subject, but I think it was @Jeff G 78 that had the pic.

IMHO, I would pull that kit off and call Mike at Banzai Motors and order the proper seat covers.

Spent Saturday at Dinwiddie Drag Strip Racing Eiji....again!!! He won......no way to treat a good friend. We had a ball.....big block Chevy guys loved the Datsuns and Eiji turned a 13.65! 97F43F4E-4656-4774-953D-277440D5127B.MOV

Ditto on the Happy Birthday Mark. You hang with a rough crowd, but if Site will drink with you I will too! As for @robbishish.....way to come into the forum feet first. Just hope you own a Z and not a Studebaker!

Congrats Brandon on a great build......Best in Show at SEMA 2021.

The NSX…….haven’t raced it, but it’s supposed to turn high 12’s out of the box.

Steve’s Z…… 29C61EA8-2249-4F82-9730-81205592B192.MOV

High 14s @madkaw….…trying to get low 14’s……we’ll see in November.

@AK260I wouldn’t worry too much about running your motor with SU’s. I run both of my 3.1 stroker motors with SM needle SU’s with no problem through the range. Eiji and I race each other in the quarter mile once or twice a year. Earlier this year my SU powered 3.1 won by .25 seconds vs his triple sidedrafts. He ran a heavier 280Zx…….we race again on November 6th……….bragging rights till Spring of 22…LOL

Just another point to consider.........I would definitely go with the SU’s to break in a new engine. One of the worst things that you can do with a break-in is to wash out the rings with too much gas. A scored cylinder is the result and will ruin an engine.

Patcon......I initially fire up a new engine and bring it up to 2000 to 2500 rpm for 15 to 20 minutes. After that initial run, check timing and look for leaks and then I try to get it on the road (usually hoodless). I’m with you in that I run her up to about 3000 to 4000 rpm and let off (drag her down) over and over a dozen or so times. This back-pressure is supposed to force the rings out snug against the cylinder walls. I try to put 50 miles on her, check for any leaks and then gradually take her up more and more aggressive. After 100 miles, you can pretty much play games with her. All IMO......Guy

They kept driving it after the first break! The spring kept self deteriating. Wouldn’t want to install a new spring when you still have 2/3 of a spring left! Those 510’s are tough little bitches!!!!👍

Great to have you back Zedyone…..glad you’ve been spending time with Zedytwo!! 🥳

We opened a bar in Atlanta in the 70’s.......called it ”Mrs. Boomers”.....on North Druid Hills Road. The Luvable bra factory was right down the street......the girls that worked there spent their lunch hours making us a four foot long bra to hang over the bar. We drank a lot of the profit! Looks like a nice car @bluez, but how about another 30 pics so we can see more.

Agreed……A higher duration camshaft is supposed to help with detonation. The Isky Stage III regrinds work for me…..zero detonation, but all my heads are shaved P79’s. Like Zed Head says…..back the timing off till you get your performance camshaft, then come back to us and we’ll walk you through that installation. But, by all means, install the flat tops.

Brought the gold 71 over to see the new Z31…… IMG_1974.MOV

I soak em in gasoline.......then wire brush.....then soak em again.

I buy a gallon in a plastic container. I only use enough acid to cover the parts to be plated......in a small plastic container. Of course you need to exercise caution, gloves, googles etc. care not to breathe fumes, but that should be just understood. It only takes 3 minutes.......they come out clean with no rust. Dilute the residue with water and you’re done. Why vapor blast when it’s just that easy! Put the top back on the gallon jug and there’s no way it affects anything else around it. IMHO.

Three minutes in Muriatic acid does wonders. Eats rust off......not so much grease. The stuff is cheap and you can do a large batch at a time. Bolts and parts come out clean.......ready to plate. IMO

Sorry Brandon….had to post this. Incredible sound…..great job on a cool project!!!! Undoubtably the best Z31 in the world!!!!